west point bass Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 I have been using DT2 and not really liking the extra weight it is adding to my baits. Thinking about using some Dick Nites. Is this product hard to work with? What are some other alternatives out there? Thanks for your help,this site is awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawkman Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Dick Nite's has storage issues but it is the closest to a factory finish. Skins over really fast. Search 'Tap the can' and you'll see how to use it properly. I've stuck with D2T and GST concrete sealer. D2T has given me the best results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 You could try e-tex, or solarez. both will add weight though. i recently bought ac1315. it is super light and pretty hard too. there are some loops to jump through but it is starting to fit me really well. i had the same problem as you on small baits and the ac1315 worked really well and cut down weight a ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Yes it is true, an epoxy adds weight to the lure. The density of epoxy is no different to all the other top coats, it is around 1.2g/cm³. You notice the weight addition more with epoxy because the coat is thicker than most others. This tough, thick layer provides not only the protection against sharp teeth, rock scrapes and hook rash, but also that smooth, level surface that makes your lure look so good. But wait a minute, that addition of thickness has increased the volume of the bait. According to my mate Archimedes, that means that the volume will displace more water and support more weight. This means that only 0.2 grams of the 1.2 grams actually makes the bait sink, In other words, only 1/6th of the epoxy weight added goes towards sinking, the rest is neutral. I know, this is a strange concept to grasp, especially if you are allergic to reading about Archimedes' principles. The perfect top coat for me, would have a density of 1.00 g/cm³. This would mean that I could sort out the ballast, seal and paint, then add several top coats and the ballast would still be correct, but I haven't found it yet. Dave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Holly Molly Archimedes', but yep it is true. The rumor is that Archimedes' learnt this while taking a dip in a public bath. That goes to show, you can learn something anywhere. I couldn't help it. Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 No, Dick Nite S81 moisture cured urethane is not hard to work with. If you store it via the "tap the can" method (highly recommended), just dispense what you need to use, brush it liberally and quickly onto the lure, and hang it up to dry/cure where the excess finish can drip off the bait. It is the closest topcoat to a factory finish: very durable, thin, clear, and non-yellowing. It also adheres well to plastic lips (but not polycarbonate/Lexan) and makes scratches disappear. Gotchas: it has a volatile solvent base which can react (bubbles, wrinkles) with water based acrylic paint that has not been dried properly, or if it pools anywhere on the lure in liquid form too long. It can also react with solvent based coatings, if you use any underneath it. You can dip lures in it if you don't mind wasting product because you cannot return any finish to the can once it has been used for dipping, lest you transfer moisture into the can and cause the finish to start hardening prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Has any of the Disk nite S81 been used on musky baits made of cedar or any made of a foam resin. I use Etex now but it is getting expensive. Raven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Check out KBS diamond top coat if your looking for a moisture cured clear. I've been messing with the stuff now for a few months with zero complaints. To be honest I wish I found it sooner. It's a very "wet" looking clear and there are almost no storage issues. When it gets a little thick simply add a bit of xylol and keep dipping. It plays nice with most anything I've put it over too which is a huge plus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodtimesfishing Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 X2 on what barr5150 said. KBS is awesome and after a few months I have yet to have to thin it, but xylol is the stuff to use when needed. I dip jigs in jar of kbs and even let it drip back in the jar with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
