Bbob Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 How do you make a mold master of a lure that hasn't been created yet? I've heard of people using modeling clay but I'm kinda clumsy with it. Any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Lots of help!!! For starters, theres a thread on clay masters posted recently http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/30416-mold-master-help-please/#entry243696 But if clay isnt for you, there are MANY other options... Get creative, the basic concept is just making a hole, and filling that hole with plastic.... Anything from wood to clay to crafting foam and tooth picks can be used to make that hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 (edited) I always preferred just carving the master from basswood. Easy to carve, sand, then usually just seal with shellac. The bait style dictates on how I mold it. Flat side get mounted on plexi with small screw and then molded. Other designs get put in clay, wax, etc...usually more detailed molds. Edited October 1, 2015 by Travis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Holy crap you guys are excellent craftsmen. I could never do anything like that. Wonderful work! P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Agreed!... Those look great Travis!!! Wax???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Yeah that is true craftsmanship there! I always kinda chuckle when people get all worked up over a bait I "made" haha. I'm like "All I did was take something in and out of the micro a few times and stir and then Turkey baster it into a mold I bought". Pretty much a trained monkey could do what I do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Yeah that is true craftsmanship there! I always kinda chuckle when people get all worked up over a bait I "made" haha. I'm like "All I did was take something in and out of the micro a few times and stir and then Turkey baster it into a mold I bought". Pretty much a trained monkey could do what I do! Everybody has to start somewhere Flattie. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 I have done clay masters also just not high on my list. I like it to make jig trailers and similar as easy to roll out and make a "cookie cutter" out of flashing to stamp the overall jig shape. One for the bottom split tail, craw shape, etc... profile then another to cut the "meat" of the jig trailer. I then just stack and smooth the seam. i set up a plate of these and pour the mold. I don't set the clay just wad it back up for the next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emptystringer81 Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 I hear that molds that are not made from metal does not leave a shiney finish is this true? Ive been kind of thinking of making my own bait like this with clay. You are great with your hands, awesome work man. How much does it cost in materials to make a injection mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 4, 2015 Report Share Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) I hear that molds that are not made from metal does not leave a shiney finish is this true? Ive been kind of thinking of making my own bait like this with clay. You are great with your hands, awesome work man. How much does it cost in materials to make a injection mold?Not true... A plaster mold with the right kind of sealer can produce baits with a better shine than aluminum Sealer options include, but are not limited to: wood glue, epoxy, hi temp spray paint, hi temp floor wax and maybe even concrete sealer (Mark???) The cost of a 2 piece plaster injection mold will vary dependant on size and sealer option.. But one will rarely exceed $10 Edited October 4, 2015 by JRammit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 I agree with JR, in fact, the finish with a properly sealed plaster mold is likely to be better than an aluminium mold, unless the ally mold has the machining marks polished out, which would be very expensive. Don't get me wrong, I am not criticizing aluminium molds. Ally molds are the gold standard and it is pointless trying to produce anything better. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Rennie Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) Very nice baits there Travis! I started with modelling clay a few months ago. I started with Steadtler fimo soft, but now use Steadtler fimo classic as it's much firmer to work with (but you have to kneed it properly before you start working with it). Once it's been baked it sands nicely. I've had a lot of fun so far with top pour molds and will soon have a go at 2 part molds. There's a few that I'm really happy with the action of. Here are a few baking tips that I've learnt along the way. 1. Bake for longer than the clay manufacturer recommends. Fimo clay is recommended for 30 mins at 110c. I give it an hour. The reason for this is that it bakes harder and is less flexible when finished. 2. Before going into the oven, put the lures on a piece of paper and onto a ceramic tile or plate, then put a metal pan over the lures. The paper stops the part of the lure that touches the tile/plate from turning glossy. The pan keeps the heat around the lure consistent. 3. Heat the oven once the lures are inside, and leave the lures inside for an hour after you switch the oven off. This brings the temp around the lure up and down gently, and helps avoid cracking in the clay (which can spoil a lure master). Good luck. Dave EDIT: Another reason I prefer Fimo Classic is that it's easier to make the lure very smooth while it's still unbaked. You can rub marks and finger prints out with your finger. This will save you time smoothing after it's baked. It's lovely stuff! Edited October 6, 2015 by Dave Rennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 JR, The concrete sealer I use, AC1315, WILL NOT WORK. It is softened and melted by the plastisol. Thinned D2T epoxy is the best sealer I've found for pop molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 JR, The concrete sealer I use, AC1315, WILL NOT WORK. It is softened and melted by the plastisol. Thinned D2T epoxy is the best sealer I've found for pop molds. Now that you mention it, i remember reading that in your other thread Good call! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
