Musky Glenn Posted October 15, 2015 Report Share Posted October 15, 2015 jrav, I sure was wrong about the use of shoulder bolts. I don't like the design they are using where tension is used like that. I never liked a part rotating on screw threads, I know they shouldn't touch the center but it just doesn't seem the correct way to do it. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 I stripped the bailarm assembly on my cheap real. I re-attached the arm without the bail and any other bits. the arm could rotate fairly easily even with the screw tightened. What I found was, that the springy bail wire was formed too wide, and was rotating the arm retainer off centre, which was causing the arm to rub and so the spring was unable to overcome this additional friction to close the bail. I stripped the arm once more and bent the spring bail wire by hand, until it aligned correctly with its mounting. Now the bail closes correctly, even with all the screws tightened. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 I stripped the bailarm assembly on my cheap real. I re-attached the arm without the bail and any other bits. the arm could rotate fairly easily even with the screw tightened. What I found was, that the springy bail wire was formed too wide, and was rotating the arm retainer off centre, which was causing the arm to rub and so the spring was unable to overcome this additional friction to close the bail. I stripped the arm once more and bent the spring bail wire by hand, until it aligned correctly with its mounting. Now the bail closes correctly, even with all the screws tightened. Dave Now that youve got it dialed in, its time to go out and use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Jr - just not possible: Currently designing a steering damping system for 3 & 5-seater. Next, an assembly/drill jig for the roof structure for 3-seater. Next, a roof inner panel for the new 5-seater. Sill panel for 5-seater. Folding spare seat assembly for 5-seater. Panel attachments for entire vehicle. Invent 4-bar hinge system for rear access door. The jobs just keep mounting up. After my immediate work list is completed, there will be a lot more jig design to be done, as we need to ramp up production from one-off prototyping, to 10,000 units per year, possibly more. And, after these two vehicles, there are three more in the pipeline. I will also be required to design a packaging system to maximize the container space, then design jigs for unit assembly in Philippines. It was probably a bad idea renting the workshop space, as I am not going to get to use it for at least another year. Still awaiting delivery of my mother mold from the rapid prototype printers. I found some plaster for 50c per kilogram and started doing mixing tests yesterday. I don't have a drying box, so I am also experimenting with microwave drying, seems to work quite well. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 You know what they say about all work and no play I get it though... Yours is a different kind of work... Mine is 60-70 hrs a week with a DOT mandantory 34 hour reset (one day off to make lures or fish)... If i couldn't fish, id have to rethink my way of life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 Jr - just not possible: Currently designing a steering damping system for 3 & 5-seater. Next, an assembly/drill jig for the roof structure for 3-seater. Next, a roof inner panel for the new 5-seater. Sill panel for 5-seater. Folding spare seat assembly for 5-seater. Panel attachments for entire vehicle. Invent 4-bar hinge system for rear access door. The jobs just keep mounting up. After my immediate work list is completed, there will be a lot more jig design to be done, as we need to ramp up production from one-off prototyping, to 10,000 units per year, possibly more. And, after these two vehicles, there are three more in the pipeline. I will also be required to design a packaging system to maximize the container space, then design jigs for unit assembly in Philippines. It was probably a bad idea renting the workshop space, as I am not going to get to use it for at least another year. Still awaiting delivery of my mother mold from the rapid prototype printers. I found some plaster for 50c per kilogram and started doing mixing tests yesterday. I don't have a drying box, so I am also experimenting with microwave drying, seems to work quite well. Dave That should keep you busy to at least next Thursday Dave. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 16, 2015 Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 JR - when I steal a day off, I am too tired to do anything. My best plan is to nail all the jobs and get some serious time off. I am easing my way back in with this bluegill project, as it does not require a workshop. If the mold works, this will provide enough incentive to go to the piranha ponds to try them out. Also a chance to break in my new Hero4 Black. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 Always swore id never spend this much on a fishing pole, yet here she is! Took me half a day in the store picking it out, and the other half in the yard remembering how to use it (havnt picked a baitcaster up in over 10 years) Anyone know a good brand name of womens shoes?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 A thing of beauty. A trip to Paris to buy the shoes, I think. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_Hacker Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) Ive had this Shimano reel for 5 or 6 years... Not sure how these got here, but there are 2 deep groves on the bail in front of the roller I lost 2 fish today because of these groves (one of them felt hefty!)... I think the line is riding in the first grove instead of on the roller... Once the line is under tension, it p o p s into the second groove and then p o p s again onto the roller I found a replacement bail for $20 after shipping... But this was only a $40 reel Is there an ez fix for this?... Or do i get to buy a new reel?? (Have to tell the wife i tried) This situation occurs sometimes if you close the bail by cranking the handle and having the bail-catch auto release the bail back to normal. The line hangs up the bail and rides where your grooves are. I usually manually close my bails because I noticed this a lot when using various spinning reels in the past. If I fished it that way reeling in, and when a fish is on, it will just wear down right there more until it goes deep where yours are causing breaks. If the parts that hold the bail wire are crusty and not smooth in it's motion, it makes it happen easier. I would fix it by soldering some solder into it and fine sanding it to level and smooth. If you are a good solderer, you won't have to sand because it will be totally smooth. Another fix would be to use bondo or epoxy putty to fill the gaps then fine wet sand it down to level. If you level it before it sets, you won't have to sand it and it will be smooth. The gaps are so small you won't notice the filling and it will no longer catch your line any more causing breaks. Just if you crank the bail closed look to see where the line is before reeling in. (most people just start reeling and not ever look at it) Or.. just manual close it IMO the best practice to use for spinners. Another fix is to pull or cut the bail wire off and just use the roller. You would have to manual set the line to roller after casting. Plus a situation that you will never have to worry about in the future is having the bail snap shut on a cast and your lure or sinker snap off flying in to outer space. Here's examples of a bailess reel to show what I mean. Edited November 24, 2015 by Fish_Hacker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted November 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hand setting the line after every cast would drive me nuts! The problem turned out to be years of gunk collected in the bail spring assembly, not letting the bail close completely.... The solution is to take better care of my reels from now on! Ive always closed my bails manually, my reason was to avoid the occasional tangle you get when you over reel and burry a loop of slack on the spool.... Now i have 2 reasons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_Hacker Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hand setting the line after every cast would drive me nuts! The problem turned out to be years of gunk collected in the bail spring assembly, not letting the bail close completely.... The solution is to take better care of my reels from now on! Ive always closed my bails manually, my reason was to avoid the occasional tangle you get when you over reel and burry a loop of slack on the spool.... Now i have 2 reasons Glad you got that figured out. I know that tangle. My friend used to get some of the nastiest tangles with braid on a spinner. He also manual closes the bail now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 I like the idea of removing the bail wire, but I do a lot of bait fishing and this would not work. I have removed the bail trip mechanism instead, so manual tripping will be me from now on. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted November 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 I like the idea of removing the bail wire, but I do a lot of bait fishing and this would not work. I have removed the bail trip mechanism instead, so manual tripping will be me from now on. Dave Youll like it... Those "ez cast" levers are more hassle than theyre worth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatman Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 This is one i've never heard of!! I have Shimano's from the 1980"s and up. TX, AX, Symetre, SideStabs,syncopaths and on. And like you I go into beaver ponds and other hard to reach places here in Vermont, and originally in NY and no wear on the bails or the wires. Can I ask what type of line you use?? I've talked to several folks in the past who had problems due to using Braided line, spider wire etc. Go on ebay and type in shimano bail, reel name and model. Being an older reel you may find a part for cheap or a beater reel of the same kind for parts but on these ask for a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted November 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I tried braided line once when i was a kid, decided never to put myself through that again! Ive used Berkley Trilene for more years than i can remember now... It was 12 lb on this reel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted November 26, 2015 Report Share Posted November 26, 2015 I tried braided once, nearly lost my fingers! DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
