WebbsBaits21 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Hey guys, I have been making jigs for a little while now and started getting that down and wanted to expand into making soft plastic baits. I started off with just getting bass tackles starter kit, I've watched a lot of videos on shooting plastics and read up a lot. I'm having a problem with when I shoot the bait and pull it after its set up a bit there are air pockets in the rib on the bait but only on the top. I got the 3.5 BT bomb and it's a side injection mold. I've tried pouring the plastic into the injector, sucking up the plastic, and the rate at which I inject. I always top off the spur but I always have the air bubbles in the same place. Can anyone lend me some advice as to what the issue might be? It would be a great help. Thank you guys very much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmatt1717 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Try brushing a tiny drop of worm oil in the mold. Could also try keeping pressure on the injector a bit longer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Ok, thanks man I'll give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Do this and you will not get bubbles/voids. Many molds require topping off after you hold the pressure and remove the injector. NEVER let the sprue go dry. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 I've see the video and it's great. And that's where my question arises. I'm topping of the spru and the spru won't be hollow at all but there is an air pocket in the top of the bait. It's a side injection bt bomb 3.5 inch and I've sucked up the plastic and poured it into the injector and it tends to happen both ways. Could it be incorrect temps injecting too fast or too slow? I'll ad some pictures here shortly of what I am tackling about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 I've see the video and it's great. And that's where my question arises. I'm topping of the spru and the spru won't be hollow at all but there is an air pocket in the top of the bait. It's a side injection bt bomb 3.5 inch and I've sucked up the plastic and poured it into the injector and it tends to happen both ways. Could it be incorrect temps injecting too fast or too slow? I'll ad some pictures here shortly of what I am talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 It may be a venting issue. Try laying the mold on its side and injecting with it on its side. Then rotate it upright and keep topping off. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 If the vid doesnt help then its a bad mold design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) Ok so I figured out what the issue was, I was doing everything correctly when it came to injecting and topping off the spru and everything. What I was doing wrong was when I would suck up the plastic I wasn't point the tip up allowing any air bubbles in the injector to come out through the nozzle and pushing them out. With the plastic still being a liquid in the mold any big bubbles would float to the top causing a bit air cavity which is why it was the same air pocket on each injection. I started sucking up plastic point the nozzle heavily angled upwards over the my plastic and let the air bubbles come to the top then pushing them out until it was just plastic and no air bubbles. Each injection has been fine since then. Thank you guys for all the help I appriciate it a lot!! Edited October 28, 2015 by WebbsBaits21 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Yup I always "burp" the injector as I showed in the video. I know others dont. If you dont you get that "spongy" feeling. Glad you figured it out 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 MonteSS - good video, very clear. Just like the doctor, expelling the air from the hypo before sticking you. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) Thank you guys again for the help I appriciate it. But I have one more question, when it comes to the injector they came oiled around the O rings on the punger and nozzle and after shooting for a bit it's gotten dry and I don't want to tear them up or anything. Would any oil work like reel oil is there a certain type or grease? That won't mess with the plastic? And how often should it be done? And what are yalls thoughts on plastisols? I'm currently using the BT M-F regular formula and getting some of do-it molds ES in in a day or so to try that out. I want something with a decent stretch so if a fish has a tail and not the whole bait a hook set won't ruin it but still very durable so they last more than one fish. Thoughts? Or recommendations to try? And how do softener sand hardeners affect thin like durability, stretch, temps, and things of that nature. Sorry it's a lot but any thoughts, tips or advice would be much appreciated. Edited October 28, 2015 by WebbsBaits21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Any brands medium is a good all around plastic for most bass type lures. Flexible and fairly durable. Saltwater people use a harder formula that I believe is because of the fish' teeth. Obviously less action. Soft is good for smaller Pan fish baits or finesse baits you want alot of wiggle. Durability will suffer. Soft is also used for baits with heavy salt added such as a Senko. Salt makes the plastic stiffer and less durable. You can add a tablespoon of softener to 4 oz of medium if you need a little more wiggle I use heat stabilizer as an injector lube. You should also use a few drops of heat stabilizer in lighter colored plastic or if you reheat numerous times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Thanks again for all the helps and tips man! Real realt help. What about a heat stabilizer in general? Would it be a bad idea to add a few drops over every batch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Cant hurt. Especially if you use a Microwave. And stir every 15 secs when reheating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 Thank you guys again for the help I appriciate it. But I have one more question, when it comes to the injector they came oiled around the O rings on the punger and nozzle and after shooting for a bit it's gotten dry and I don't want to tear them up or anything. Would any oil work like reel oil is there a certain type or grease? That won't mess with the plastic? And how often should it be done? And what are yalls thoughts on plastisols? I'm currently using the BT M-F regular formula and getting some of do-it molds ES in in a day or so to try that out. I want something with a decent stretch so if a fish has a tail and not the whole bait a hook set won't ruin it but still very durable so they last more than one fish. Thoughts? Or recommendations to try? And how do softener sand hardeners affect thin like durability, stretch, temps, and things of that nature. Sorry it's a lot but any thoughts, tips or advice would be much appreciated. I am just a hobby pourer, so there may be better ways, but this works for me. I have a can of spray cooking oil (Pam) on top of my micro. Every time I open the injector to remove the left over plastic, before I reassemble, I pull the plunger all the way back, so the entire barrel is exposed, and put a quick shot of Pam into it. Then I reinstall the nozzle, and push the plunger back up so it's ready to draw in the next batch of plastic. That way, the entire barrel is oiled, and the O rings, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 To lube and clean my injectors without complete disassembly, I took a 1/2" piece of dowel and made a slot in one end. Much like a big rifle cleaning jag. Pull a piece of cloth through the slot, coat with worm oil, and you have a real nice injector luber/cleaner. Rarely change the cloth. Just use over and over and shake it out after each use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 With hardeners and softener me you add them and mix before you heat the plastisol right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 I add them before I heat the plastisol. Also the heat stabilizer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes I add additives before heating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 Explain the reason for the burping. The way I think is that the air is at the top so if you don't use all of it then you won't get air. And most of us know you can't use all the plastic in an injector cause near the end it's just not good. Now if you suck up plastic so fast you get air in it why not slow down? Turning an injector upside down and pushing the air out looks like an accident waiting to happen. Not to mention all that time the plastic is cooling. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WebbsBaits21 Posted October 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) Explain the reason for the burping. The way I think is that the air is at the top so if you don't use all of it then you won't get air. And most of us know you can't use all the plastic in an injector cause near the end it's just not good. Now if you suck up plastic so fast you get air in it why not slow down? Turning an injector upside down and pushing the air out looks like an accident waiting to happen. Not to mention all that time the plastic is cooling. Its like a syringe at the doctors. Also you're not holding it completely vertical more so angled over the cup you're pulling you're plastic from this way the air will be at the nozzel and get pushed out. Once the air is out plastic will run out but this is why you hold it over the cup you are pulling from so the plastic that runs out falls back into the cup. Hope I made sense and It works for me and seems pretty safe. At least for me anyways. You know? Edited October 30, 2015 by WebbsBaits21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 I can feel the inject better and when the mold it full. It is firm and not spongy. Kinda like air in the brake system on a car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I pull some plastic in, then shoot it back out again, before I fill the injector, to heat the injector, when I'm too lazy to preheat it. I tried burping, and wound up with hot plastic canon when the trapped air had a little hot plastic in front of it. I try to hold the injector vertical when I fill it, so it doesn't suck up air, and I hold it vertical when I inject, so any trapped air goes up toward the plunger. I haven't had any problems with trapped air, but I am a hobby pourer, not a production person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 when i first started getting into this ..i found this video and franks video helped me alot..but ask any and all question theres alot of really good guys on here that will help you enjoy and have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
