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jcampioni

Flat Side Balsa Action

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Here is a video that I made of

, so you can see the difference. You will see that the coffin and the pointed shape give the narrowest action.

 

The speed or period of the action is determined by the width of the lip, keeping everything else constant. The narrower the lip, the faster the action. This indirectly controls the width of the action, as the direction changes before the lure can swim too wide.

 

So in conclusion, for a narrow swim, you need a narrow lip.

 

Dave

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In my experience, there are multiple attributes of a tight action crankbait.  Some classic tight action baits are the Zoom Tapp and the Tennessee Tuffy T1 coffin billed medium depth cranks.  They are minnow shaped, about 3" long, 3/8 to 1/2 oz, with a coffin lip set at a shallow angle.

 

A Tennessee Tuffy T-1 can be seen at http://tn-tuffy.com/tuffyt1.html

 

IMO, the tight action is mostly caused by the lip angle and the length of the flat body.  If you are trying to make a bait of this type, those attributes and the ballasting must be spot on to get it to swim properly.  The Tuffy has a tight action but with a distinct thump.  Nice bait!

Edited by BobP
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Convenient that this thread appears... I was planning soon to design me a new crank for the coming of colder water

Something a little deeper than my norm, and certainly tighter

My plan was a longer, more slender body (as mentioned), i think having the ballast closer to the x-axis makes for more roll and less wobble..... Also i think splitting the ballast (as Dave said) would get rid of the "pivot point" and reduce wobble even more

As for the lip, i would trust the experts here!... Im looking for about an 8' dive out of mine, so my angle will naturally be shallow..... Love that video Dave! Musta watched it a few dozen times! The coffin bill looks best of both worlds, tight wiggle and would deflect off cover better than the shaped bill.. Plus if BobP says coffin, coffin it is!

Edited by JRammit
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I don't know what it is about coffin shaped lips, but with them I had to go through more design changes than usual to get a bait that I was happy with.  It can be a fine line between getting a tight wiggle and a bait that won't wiggle hardly at all.  And it's even more difficult to get a bait that has a tight wiggle and still has some thump, which I always want to feel whatever the style of bait.  Good luck with it.

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I havnt worked with balsa, in fact all my cranks thus far have been PVC... But there is evidenced here that choice of material has a great affect on action

I was thinking of going with poplar for this build... My thinking is of a less lively action from the denser wood, plus an easier dive with a smaller lip

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Good to know!... I will order some, but first i have to answer to the wife for the box that should be arriving today

 

Being divorced and living alone I don't have this problem, but maybe we should add a place in the forums, or maybe the "How To" section, on "stealth" deliveries, purchases, etc. :?

 

Obviously I don't know a lot about this since I am divorced after all, but I do know a lot about what DOESN'T work. :D

 

Ben

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Depending on your work location you may want to think about having orders delivered to your work. Keeps it on the low and your wife out of the know.

I like the way you think!..... But she's actually pretty cool about it... I do get the look, but not the "youre in trouble" look, its more of a "im keeping track" look........ No telling how many boxes of clothes or shoes show up while im at work, but im sure we're even

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Back to the original question for a moment. In tests I've done the closer the ballast is to the lures center of gravity the wider the action will be. As Dave and Bob have mentioned previously ballast placement plays a big role in determining what type of action you get.

 

Picture in your mind the way a seesaw works. If the fulcrum is placed directly in the center of a board and there is equal weight at each end the seesaw will work as effortlessly as possible. If you change the location of the fulcrum, or place uneven weights at each end, it now requires more effort to keep the seesaw going. By increasing the amount of force required to move the seesaw you will limit it's movement. You can do the same thing to a crankbait by choosing where to place the ballast.

 

I built a balancing beam that helps find the center of gravity on my baits. I did this by taking a small block of wood and sawing a shallow slot into it. A piece of hacksaw blade was then epoxied into the slot with the smooth back side of the blade pointing up. By placing the bait onto the centering beam and moving it back and forth you can find the center of gravity. This is done after the diving lip and line ties are in place. It's not 100% accurate since the balance beam isn't tall enough to work with hooks installed, but it will get you fairly close. 

 

Before I started building baits I always thought it was the flat sides that determined whether a bait had a tight action or not. After seeing that I could build flat sides with a really wide action I found that just having flat sides had little to do with how wide the action was. All aspects of a lures construction has at least some input into the action it has. Some of these just have more than others.

 

Ben

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