Old Bandit Copies

[mark poulson]

I had a friend come up to fish with me, and she kicked my butt, using an old Bandit bait.

I didn't have any in that color, so I made two from PVC trim board.

They both swim great, and the smaller one has caught fish already.

Here's a link to them in the Hard Baits Gallery:

 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15244-homemade-bandits/

 

The next two photos show details of the build.  I basically copied the original I had as a model, and just scaled it up by eye for the larger version.

I had never made a crank with a bill in that shape, and I was pleasantly surprised at how much the lures X (pivot/wiggle side to side on the center axis) and don't blow out, even when I burn them back in.

The shape of the body matches the profile of the craw one fish spit up almost exactly.

Edited October 30, 2015 by mark poulson

[Cougarftd]

That is really awesome work there Mark

[goodtimesfishing]

Those look great!

[RayburnGuy]

Man those things are ugly. Some of the worst work you've ever done Mark. Better send them to me so I can dispose of them and nobody will ever see them again.

 

Ben

[ctenn]

"I put a 1 gram lead ball in both of them as a one knocker."

 

Mark,

I'm new to this; how did you hollow out the bait to put the "one knocker" insibe the bait?

Carl

Edited November 3, 2015 by ctenn

[mark poulson]

Once I've gotten the bait shaped, and the hardware and bill drilled for and slotted, I use a wooden jawed clamp to hold the bait parallel to the drill press table, so my holes will all have the same orientation.

I drill a small pilot hole through the bait, from side to side, where I want the rattle to go .  That way I can locate my knocker so I don't run into their locations.

I use a 5/16" brad point bit to drill a shallow (1/16"+) hole from each for my aluminum disc rattle caps.

Then I use a 1/4" brad point bit to drill the rattle hole, using the small pilot hole as a guide and drilling half way from each side.

I run the 1/4" bit through from side to side, once I've gotten them connected, to make sure the chase for the rattle is smooth.

If you're using wood (I use PVC) at this point you probably want to seal the 1/4" rattle shaft with super glue, and clean/smooth the hole with the 1/4" bit, before you proceed.

I use a 5/16" hole punch to make two aluminum discs from a soda or beer can.

Using the handle of an exacto knife, I push one of the discs into the 5/16" hole on one side of the lure.  It is the perfect size for this.

Once the disc is centered and seated, I use some gap filling super glue to glue the disc in, and I use the accelerant for the glue to help it set quickly.

Then I turn the lure over, add the 1 gram lead ball, make sure it moves freely, and then glue in the other aluminum disc to close the rattle chamber.

I use bondo to fill the recesses over the rattle caps.  

I cut 5/16" holes in blue painters tape to mask the bait before I bondo, so I keep it off the lure's face.  I just file and sand the bondo down until it's really close to the lure and I start hitting the tape.  Then I remove the tape and finish sand with 120 grit.

My final step is to reinforce the bondo by putting a drop of runny super glue onto each spot, and spreading it with my finger.  It makes the bondo stronger, and the excess glue just seals the lure around the holes.

I hope this helps.

Edited November 4, 2015 by mark poulson

[ctenn]

Thanks Mark

Carl