mark poulson Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 A tip about using pop. If you have details on your masters, mix up a little pop and coat them first, then mix up a second batch to fill your mold. The pop on the masters will bond to the second pour, and you won't wind up with a bunch of hard pop. Been there, done that. Also, be sure to use clean, cool water when you mix your pop, or it will set up too fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skimpy Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Do you seal either the elders before or after you bake the DWP ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 I don't know about the Durham's, but I bake the pop for a couple of hours at 170, and then let the mold sit overnight before I seal it with D2T, diluted 2/1 with denatured alcohol ( the 1). Be sure to mix the D2t really well BEFORE you add the alcohol, or the alcohol will bond with the unmixed parts and it will never set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skimpy Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Thanks !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) A tip about using pop. If you have details on your masters, mix up a little pop and coat them first, then mix up a second batch to fill your mold. The pop on the masters will bond to the second pour, and you won't wind up with a bunch of hard pop. Been there, done that. Also, be sure to use clean, cool water when you mix your pop, or it will set up too fast. Dont do this with DWP... Once it is thinned out, it dries rapidly and will not bond well with wet DWP... The brushed on portion tends to crumble away from poured portionWhat ive done is pour a thin layer, just enough to cover the master.. Then use a brush around the details to remove bubbles... Then pour the rest in..... I still get bubbles sometimes, ez touch up work with a small brush and a small cup of wet DWP... Watch how fast it dries when patching holes! Your sealer will hold the wet "patches" to the dry mold Edited November 13, 2015 by JRammit 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPokey Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 How much would it cost for someone here that knows what their doing to make a silicone mold for me. I have the head, just need the mold made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBull Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 I would suggest you use RTV.RUBBER MOLD MAT..I have flipping and swim jig molds made of it and they have poured 4 to 5 hundred heads each and still ready for more. I've made a lot of these molds to get my own style of heads that I want. (RTV will show all defects) First before you get ready to make your mold take your jig you want and look it over real careful for defects and any thing else that isn't quite what you want. You can take play doe our clay that kids play with and fill holes our add to the jig. Now that you have your jig the way you want it, take and coat the jig with a LIGHT coat of D2T. This will give you a very nice finished (smooth) blank to pour in to. If possible always make two molds of the same copied head. Because of the heat from the lead will make the mold very hot and that is what will destroy the mold. What it does is slows you down and one mold has some time to cool down. Another hint is to be sure to make the mold thick enough. At least 3/4 to 1 inch thick on the widest point on your jig.Will make it last a very long time. When you cut your sprue hole cut it on the back side of where the hook comes out. You only have to cut one side of the mold for this. THE POURING HOLE CAN BE AS BIG AT THE TOP AS YOU WANT ,BUT WHERE IT ENTER THE MOLD MAKE IT VERY SMALL .You can always go bigger but never smaller. Good luck and I hope this helps. STEVE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy1976 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 You should be able to do it after watching these guys videos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretcher66 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 i have made several 2 piece jig molds for saltwater out of bondo. the bondo-glas seems to work the best in my experiences. it does not get soft like the regular bondo does after a few pours. after i make the mold i fill in the small air pockets inside of the cavity only with a little spot putty and it works great. if you want a more durable plaster of paris mold, mix in a little portland cement with the POP 75% POP - 25%portland cement and the mold will be bullet proof. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simplycrappie Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Send me a couple samples of what you want and i can make a small 2 cavity mold out of high temp silicone that will last for thousands of pours for around 60 bucks shipped http://www.crappie.com/crember-sponsor-classified-ads/295422-custom-spincast-molds-3.htmlappie/-m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
