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LimpNoodle

.051 And .062 Wire Former

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Hey guys!

 

If you're a Muskie fisherman you know that finding a decent tool to work with heavy wire is almost impossible.

 

Look no more.

 

http://dubrofishing.com/products/bucktail-twister

 

Du Bro now has the wire former for you.

 

I'm not affiliated with them at all.  Just noticed they finally had the product.

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I have spent this afternoon studying the Du-Bro video. I have found three design improvements for the eye formation. I am still working on the barrel part of the jig.

 

My aim is to make it easy to manufacture with simple tools, produce a neater result and also provide the option of tight barrel wraps or loose barrel wraps for crank eye production.

 

There are no copy or patent issues here, as all the ideas used are old hat and have been used many times before.

 

DAve

Edited by Vodkaman
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Vodkaman, I've been studying the Dubro video myself as well. Here's what I've come up with so far this morning.

I just used scraps and pieces I had laying around the basement and garage. I used a piece of one inch oak trim. Old dull drill bit as the posts and a couple screws for the barrel wrapper.

I still have a few improvement to make but it is functional and I've seen much better results already over trying to twist these heavy shafts by hand.

20160101_113424_zpsmucjfgog.jpg

20160101_113509_zpsuzpesall.jpg

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Joel - this is a great start.

 

The problems that you are seeing, I have anticipated would occur:

 

Offset eye - this is caused by insufficient angle of first bend. Even if you physically make the first bend at a greater angle, the act of making the second, long sweeping bend, will undo the first bend. The solution is to move the two pins closer together. This is going to be a trial and error thing. I am thinking the gap between the pins around 120% of the wire diameter. So a D1.6mm wire, the gap will be a shade under 2mm.

 

It would be nice to make this gap adjustable, but that would make for a very complex jig. With a fixed gap, it is only going to be perfect for one wire size.

 

Loose barrel - this is caused by the height of the panhead screw. I too plan to use the panhead screw, but I plan to grind down the top of the head, to reduce the wire deflection causing the barrel gaps. A panhead with an Alen hex socket drive would be better.

 

On the eye formation, I see that you have not included the skid ramp. I felt that the ramp was twice as steep as actually necessary, and with only mild inconvenience, was not necessary at all. The ramp that I designed on mine is 1mm thick and even this could possibly be reduced.

 

This is what I have so far. I have replaced the panhead screw with a chamfered plate to catch the wire. Also, I think with a slightly deeper slot, no clamping will be required, although I could be wrong with this idea. This design is far from finalized, but I throw it out for discussion.

 

I plan to glue the plates, but the barrel plate may need an additional CSK screw.

 

barrel 01.JPG

 

Once again - good job.

 

Dave

barrel 01.JPG

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barrel 01.JPG

barrel 01.JPG

barrel 01.JPG

barrel 01.JPG

post-14497-0-04519200-1451674456_thumb.jpg

Edited by Vodkaman
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I think the chamfered plate along with a deeper slot are a great idea. The deeper slot should also help reduce wear to the main body of the jig.

I have been playing with the spacing of the pins and like you mentioned I'm finding there is going to be a lot of trial and error involved. I'm still working on that aspect.

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