Leatherhead Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 T.U. nation, I need some advice. I am interested in trying to make my own spinner baits. I would like to know from you guys what would be a good mold for a "newbie" to start off with. I know this is a loaded question, but I am new to this. Thanks in advance Leatherhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 I personally like the ultra-minnow spinnerbait. Although I had problems with it when I first started pouring it years ago, I solved that problem by pouring straight soft lead in that mold. It runs true and has good definition, even when painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 I had 2 custom spinnerbait molds made ( spinnerbaits are my favorite bait and got me into tackle making) along with a few different Do-it spinnerbait molds. I've since sold all my molds and only use the ultra minnow mold from Do-it, it has nice detail but the thing I like is how the bait runs, it comes through grass really well, the proportions are perfect for fishing crass and cover in general, just a solid design so I now use the ultra minnow exclusively. The ultra minnow is what you should get, you shouldn't have many problems as long as you use good lead, if you intend to use scrap you may want the bullet or banana head spinnerbait molds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBehr Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 The Do-it Banana mold is my favorite. ..especially for a beginner. Easy to pour and has plenty of "keel" to run well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 I personally like the ultra-minnow spinnerbait. Although I had problems with it when I first started pouring it years ago, I solved that problem by pouring straight soft lead in that mold. It runs true and has good definition, even when painted. No antimony in your spinner baits? Don't they loosen up? I will not use soft lead in spinner and buzz-baits since I replaced a bunch @ no charge for customers 25 years ago that became loose after use. I ladel pour the Ultra-spinner bait mold. Keep the ladel in the lead when not pouring so the lead doesn't cool when you fill it. The small Lee ladel pot will get your lead hotter vs. a big RCBS pot.Smoke the spinner bait mold , sprue entrance and both sides of the ladel 1st w/a beeswax candle. The candle works better vs. drop-out in my experience for that application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFerzy7 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 No antimony in your spinner baits? Don't they loosen up? I will not use soft lead in spinner and buzz-baits since I replaced a bunch @ no charge for customers 25 years ago that became loose after use. I ladel pour the Ultra-spinner bait mold. Keep the ladel in the lead when not pouring so the lead doesn't cool when you fill it. The small Lee ladel pot will get your lead hotter vs. a big RCBS pot.Smoke the spinner bait mold , sprue entrance and both sides of the ladel 1st w/a beeswax candle. The candle works better vs. drop-out in my experience for that application. Were you powder painting spinnerbaits 25 years ago? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Were you powder painting spinnerbaits 25 years ago? No-I airbrushed vinyl lure & jig paint from Component systems. Powder painting was not available back then. I still airbrush spinner and buzz-baits today but use C.S. water-base paint and epoxy coating . Edited January 1, 2016 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 No antimony in your spinner baits? Don't they loosen up? I will not use soft lead in spinner and buzz-baits since I replaced a bunch @ no charge for customers 25 years ago that became loose after use. I ladel pour the Ultra-spinner bait mold. Keep the ladel in the lead when not pouring so the lead doesn't cool when you fill it. The small Lee ladel pot will get your lead hotter vs. a big RCBS pot.Smoke the spinner bait mold , sprue entrance and both sides of the ladel 1st w/a beeswax candle. The candle works better vs. drop-out in my experience for that application. My RCBS pot goes to 850 degrees, how much hotter do you need it for what you are doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 No antimony in your spinner baits? Don't they loosen up? I will not use soft lead in spinner and buzz-baits since I replaced a bunch @ no charge for customers 25 years ago that became loose after use. I ladel pour the Ultra-spinner bait mold. Keep the ladel in the lead when not pouring so the lead doesn't cool when you fill it. The small Lee ladel pot will get your lead hotter vs. a big RCBS pot.Smoke the spinner bait mold , sprue entrance and both sides of the ladel 1st w/a beeswax candle. The candle works better vs. drop-out in my experience for that application. No, no antimony, the soft lead does not loosen up for me. I got the mold when it first came out and had issues with it. I even got another mold at the time which was a lot better. So I do believe that sometimes there could be an individual mold problem and I got a bad one. It may sound crazy, but I've bought two of the same molds at times, and one will always pour better. Yes I can polish the pouring hole and do a bunch of other things, but don't want to do more than I have to. The point is to get a good mold from the start. I do also ladle pour this mold, it is just easier. Finally, when I started to pour way back, I tried candle soot, and it never worked for me, I didn't see any difference in better pouring and the soot always made a mess on all my tools and hands. I love my Drop-Out, to me it is like pouring lead on a Teflon pan. It's all relative. There is no right or wrong way. You can have ten guys in a room pouring and everyone will has his own views on how things should be. All that matters is that it works for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 My RCBS pot goes to 850 degrees, how much hotter do you need it for what you are doing? 925 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I tried candle soot, and it never worked for me, I didn't see any difference in better pouring and the soot always made a mess on all my tools and hands. Use a bees wax candle- other types do not produce positive results. A mess of your tools and hands ?- the soot is only for the inner cavities. I wipe off the excess(outside the cavities) w/ a rag and q-tip.Like you say,to each his own. I do believe the drop-out last longer on the ladel.The dross will come out of the ladel very easily after using the ladel to skim the dross off the top of molten lead. I simply tap it on the edge of a hard container. The lead pours more smoothly w/ the ladel either bees waxed or drop outed-on both sides. I had the same experience w/ my 1st Do-it Ultra spinner bait mold.The newer one works fine providing I bees wax the inner mold cavity for my use w/ my harder lead. Years ago I used x-ray room sheet lead for spinner and buzz-baits. Every single one of them loosened up.I changed to clean antimony lead and never looked back.That said, you still have to flux and flux your lead. Many years ago i purchased a case of Aqua pure,lead free solder. The cost today is prohibitive($35.+ per pound) but I smelt soft lead w/ my original supply of Aqua pure to make harder lead baits when my antimony supply gets low. I had all types of problems when I 1st started pouring lead into Do-it molds(1983). The late Melvin Bond of Do-it was kind enough to spend extra time w/ me on the phone,educating me on the idiosyncrasies of lead pouring. He also helped me w/ smelting my own lead to a desired hardness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LimpNoodle Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Lead free solders are mostly tin. Tin will harden lead a little but it age softens very quickly. http://www.lasc.us/Kelter_Cast_Bullet_Alloys2.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) Lead free solders are mostly tin. Tin will harden lead a little but it age softens very quickly. http://www.lasc.us/Kelter_Cast_Bullet_Alloys2.pdf I read the entire article. In practicality, some statements seem to not pertain to custom lead,fresh water bass fishing lures. 1-Advisable not to heat the lead 70-90degrees above its melting point 2-Antimony lead softens quickly With all due respect,I have custom painted buzz-baits & spinner baits that are twenty years old and have seen plenty of use. You would break the handles on normal $7.95 lead dikes trying to cut it.They have never softened up. I bought some expensive lino lead from Midway U.S.A. once to try. It was a nightmare in my custom jig molds. 1/16- 1/8 oz. w/ double barbs and even 1/4 oz spinner bait molds. It does have more antimony but I believe the article states it melts below 650 degrees.I even heated it up to 975 in a small pot, fluxed it and smoked the molds and it still gave incomplete pours Incomplete pours drove me nuts. I smelted in soft lead by 50% and used it in large jigs -just to get rid of it. I am going to try Roto metals-99% pure lead(no antimony) to be objective and educated when my supply of soft lead is used up. Thanks for the article link. It is an informative read. Edited to add: i just saw Aqua pure solder on e-bay from $16- $20 per 1pd. roll-only 5x's the cost of Roto metals lead Edited January 1, 2016 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 1-Advisable not to heat the lead 70-90degrees above its melting point Edited to add: i just saw Aqua pure solder on e-bay from $16- $20 per 1pd. roll-only 5x's the cost of Roto metals lead If that is the stuff I am thinking of, I got about 50-60 pounds of it for free this year, and it should keep coming also. They/we use it for setting the squeeze/distance between manufacturing cylinders. Put it between, turn the cylinders on compress, micrometer the flat spot on the lead. I also now have a contact I used to work with, who moved to the North East and they use lead sheeting a lot for roofing. He just dropped of 130# to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 "Finally, when I started to pour way back, I tried candle soot, and it never worked for me, I didn't see any difference in better pouring and the soot always made a mess on all my tools and hands. I love my Drop-Out, to me it is like pouring lead on a Teflon pan. It's all relative. There is no right or wrong way. You can have ten guys in a room pouring and everyone will has his own views on how things should be. All that matters is that it works for you." I haven't tried that Drop-Out stuff. May have to get a can. I agree with the soot not really being much help, and like all crafts, your last comment is spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 "Finally, when I started to pour way back, I tried candle soot, and it never worked for me, I didn't see any difference in better pouring and the soot always made a mess on all my tools and hands. I love my Drop-Out, to me it is like pouring lead on a Teflon pan. It's all relative. There is no right or wrong way. You can have ten guys in a room pouring and everyone will has his own views on how things should be. All that matters is that it works for you." I haven't tried that Drop-Out stuff. May have to get a can. I agree with the soot not really being much help, and like all crafts, your last comment is spot on. Bob, I am a skeptical person when it comes to trying all the newfangled stuff. However, if you don't try new things you will never know. So I have a mold that drives me absolutely crazy every time I poured it. Once I tried the Drop-Out, I was amazed at how much easier the lead poured into the cavity and the jigs released from the mold. I don't work for Frankford Arsenal however do try their product and post your results for others to read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Bob, I am a skeptical person when it comes to trying all the newfangled stuff. However, if you don't try new things you will never know. So I have a mold that drives me absolutely crazy every time I poured it. Once I tried the Drop-Out, I was amazed at how much easier the lead poured into the cavity and the jigs released from the mold. I don't work for Frankford Arsenal however do try their product and post your results for others to read. OK, here I thought the drop out was something different. I have/had a can of the Frankford Arsenal stuff, left someone borrow it before I even tried it, and now he doesn't know where it is lol. I'll have to "prod" him about it again and give it a try. Guys at work call me "old school". Heck, I'm still sporting a "dumb" phone lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leatherhead Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I have another question. Do you have to tune every one you make or do you just pour , add components , and fish. I hear people talking about tuning them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I have another question. Do you have to tune every one you make or do you just pour , add components , and fish. I hear people talking about tuning them? The only way I properly tune them is on the water. But I rarely have to do that. Now if you are pouring them, then you should make sure that the wire form is in line with the center of the bait. Look at it from all directions. Top, bottom, left and right side. Also make sure you use good ball bearing swivels, as a really good swivel will turn with the least of effort. You want to be able to slow roll a spinnerbait and have the blade spinning. Others may have different ways of doing it but that is the way I approach this and it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leatherhead Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Thanks Cadman. Now if I can just figure out which head I want to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFerzy7 Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 No-I airbrushed vinyl lure & jig paint from Component systems. Powder painting was not available back then. I still airbrush spinner and buzz-baits today but use C.S. water-base paint and epoxy coating . I think powder paint reinforces the head area better than liquid paints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 Do lead spinnerbait heads really need to be reinforced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFerzy7 Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 Torgue from the fish on the hook and the angler on the wire will ruin a bait over time if the wire hasnt broke by then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 I think powder paint reinforces the head area better than liquid paints. Incorrect! The BIN rating of the lead is important. Soft lead is just that-SOFT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFerzy7 Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 Incorrect! The BIN rating of the lead is important. Soft lead is just that-SOFT! So is bone marrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
