nedyarb Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Does it melt skirts? Either living rubber, or silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 I hope not nedyarb. I just bought a can and I really like what I see so far in the results I've gotten. Crystal clear. Long working time. Withstands a lot of handling without dulling when cured. I don't think you will have any problems as a bunch of guys are using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Try laying a plastic worm over a coated lure, and leaving it for a few days. That's how I found out that AC1315 melts when in prolonged contact with plastisol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 I haven't been introduced to this product but I did a quick search and at $55 per quart it better be good. Can someone here give me some details on this product? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 I haven't been introduced to this product but I did a quick search and at $55 per quart it better be good. Can someone here give me some details on this product? That price really isn't out of line for that type product Smalljaw. That's pretty close to what I'm paying for DN moisture cure. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 I haven't been introduced to this product but I did a quick search and at $55 per quart it better be good. Can someone here give me some details on this product? Here ya go Smalljaw. This product has to be turned and most guys are doing a couple coats. It's a MCU so you have to consider this when storing. I did the "tap the can" for longevity. This method can be found in the hard bait section here at TU. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Here's complete instructions for using and applying. Note a NOSHA approved respirator is recommended when applying. http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/diamond-finish-clearcoat-instructions/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Here's complete instructions for using and applying. Note a NOSHA approved respirator is recommended when applying. Not exactly correct or what is reccomended by the manufacturer. Copied and pasted. IF SPRAYING, ALWAYS WEAR AN AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR AND EYE PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved organic vapor particulate respirator. Thinning is not generally required if brushing. I applied with a brush in a well ventilated area and didn't have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 That kind of stuff keeps me using Devcon, and I know why others look for alternatives. I got so use to working with Devcon that I mix small batches and when I mix a batch to do 10 jigs there almost zero waste. I tried DN and using a turner and multiple coats just isn't for me but I appreciate the explanation guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Here's complete instructions for using and applying. Note a NOSHA approved respirator is recommended when applying. Not exactly correct or what is reccomended by the manufacturer. Copied and pasted. IF SPRAYING, ALWAYS WEAR AN AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR AND EYE PROTECTION: NIOSH/MSHA approved organic vapor particulate respirator. Thinning is not generally required if brushing. I applied with a brush in a well ventilated area and didn't have any problems. I do not see the need,nor will even consider my use for this toxic material and the need to use their thinners along w/ the recommended preparation required.We're talking about fishing lures,not the space shuttle. I'm amazed how some TU members can seem to dance around warnings/precautions for various ,dangerous products/materials.Bottom line- use what you want if it gives you satisfaction. You only have one set of eyes and lungs. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I do not see the need,nor will even consider my use for this toxic material and the need to use their thinners along w/ the recommended preparation required.We're talking about fishing lures,not the space shuttle. I'm amazed how some TU members can seem to dance around warnings/precautions for various ,dangerous products/materials.Bottom line- use what you want if it gives you satisfaction. You only have one set of eyes and lungs. Not trying to dance around anything. The bottom line is putting a couple milliliters in a small medicine cup and brushing a couple lead heads in a well ventilated area is a lot different than spraying a car in a spray booth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Not trying to dance around anything. The bottom line is putting a couple milliliters in a small medicine cup and brushing a couple lead heads in a well ventilated area is a lot different than spraying a car in a spray booth. I hope you're successful w/ long term,no chip,scratch and paint scuffing w/ this product. It seems that the primary use for this product is automobiles. Cars are not jigs that get banged,dragged through rocks and casted into the side of bridge pillars.That's a great deal of prep work for a lead head jig that will eventually be lost in rocks and wood. I truly wish you good luck,safety and satisfaction w/ this product. For maximum adhesion, metals should be freshly polished or sanded to the finish required and then thoroughly cleaned with high evaporation solvent. Followed by a clean with KBS AquaKlean at a duition rate of 10 to1 with water (10% strength) with the use of a soft non abrasive cleaning pad. (Use gloves and eye protection at all times) Keep cleaning times to a minimum on non ferrous metals. Rinse with water and allow to dry in a way that minimizes any water stains.I remember C.S. touting their vinyl lure and jig paint 25 years ago.The toughest finish you can put on a jig that will not chip . The reality of jig fishing in rocks is scarred/chipped paint jobs and lost jigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Lord have mercy, S'holic. That was a lot of typing and I didn't even say I was using it on a jig. You make a lot of assumptions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Lord have mercy, S'holic. That was a lot of typing and I didn't even say I was using it on a jig. You make a lot of assumptions. It's called copy and paste.Pardon the assumption-good luck on whatever fishing lure application you're using it on. .Peace I met a gentlemen years ago that used bowling alley sealer to fishing his crank-baits. He dipped his crank-baits.They looked beautiful and he said the sealer would never come off. I'll stick w/ C.S. 2-part,water based epoxy air-brushed as a protective finish coat on my wooden surface plugs,buzz-baits and spinner-baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Before the paint companies took all the hot solvents out of paint to save the ozone, there were bullet-proof clears that were used on our jobsites all the time. Today's finishes are not up to the old standard yet, but they're making progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I only top coat my multi coat finishes and those have eyes, also. May turn out I don't like the stuff, but that's OK too. I do enjoy experimenting and progressing techniques. Also sharing those and gleaning techniques that I may use from like minded folks like those here on TU. If we all just dug our heels in and said that couldn't be done, or that product won't work, etc. etc. where would we be in this art of tacklecrafting? Anyway, I believe the OP needed help on any reactive nature of KBS before we were sidetracked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted January 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 I am asking because I wanted to try painting spinnerbaits with my airbrush. I normally just use powder paint. I just started using kbs on crankbaits and I love it. I just tap the can and brush it on, this is one I made yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 I am asking because I wanted to try painting spinnerbaits with my airbrush. I normally just use powder paint. I just started using kbs on crankbaits and I love it. I just tap the can and brush it on, this is one I made yesterday. Nice bait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Any bubbling problems with the KBS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted January 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 Not on my crankbaits, I did coat 6 spinnerbaits the other day and one had a bubble on the eye. I just popped it and recoated it and I cant even tell it was there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted January 6, 2016 Report Share Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) If I have jigs with eyes, I have used nothing but minwax polyurethane and brush on 2 thin coats. I have used these jigs in fresh and saltwater, and it has held up. $18-$19 a can, last me 2 years doing many jigs to sell. The Devcon epoxy gives a jig a look of "depth" that my polyurethane does not, but I only use it to coat/seal the eyes. Thin coat, 1/2hour to 45 minutes later, second coat. Never had a customer complaint either of it not holding up. No drying wheel needed if you keep it thin enough. Never tried air brushing it. Have an endless supply of water base UV coating I can get for free at work, but that stuff we use stinks to high heavens, and I doubt the fish would like it lol. But boy the jigs would look great. We use it to coat magazine/catalog covers, so it is very flexible. Edited January 6, 2016 by BLT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
