Vaccum/heat Stencil Wrinkles

[Mr.t]

Every time i make a stencil it wrinkles,mostly around the bill back toward the gill plate.I tried cutting slits around the edges of the plastic,and I've tried getting the plastic hot before turning on the vac,and I've tried it with vac on before heating,tips appreciated!

[Mr.t]

I know there is probably an answer in an old post but there is always new and better ways being figured out so thought I would ask. Sorry for those who get tired of seeing same questions, thanks

[simscustomcranks]

what thickness PETG you using?

[Mr.t]

Probably .010 to .015 stuff that come off my kids toy packaging from christmas

[fishon-son]

what bait?

[Travis]

Just part of the process of trying to wrap a 3D structure with a "2D" material. If it always conformed in the same manner you could make relief but that isn't the case.  As mentioned above thickness of material is important, thinner the better as essentially as it conforms and bends you end up with "excess" material the thinner the material the less excess you will have to deal with.  Ideally you want to stretch the material over the contours and reduce issues.   Also some materials better suited for stencil making than others.

 

Lot of interesting reading on this subject if you enjoy looking into computational geometry.. 

[Mr.t]

2.5 square bill is what I'm trying to make a stencil for

[Mr.t]

I thought about cutting some of the bill down to he reduce wrinkling

[Vodkaman]

I think you understand the problem that you are having well enough, it is, of course, the corner of the square bill.

 

The solution that you have in mind, cutting back the bill, is also good and should solve the problem.

 

It would be nice to have a stencil that completely covered the bill, but it is not essential to the function of the stencil. I see no problem in having a cutout slot in the bill portion of the stencil. You will probably have tape on the lip anyway.

 

Wrinkles are acceptable on a stencil UNLESS they interfere with the function of the stencil. Wrinkles can actually be an advantage, providing structural support to the shape. The stencil is purely a functioning tool, any attempt to remove wrinkles because they don't look good or make the stencil look unprofessional, is futile.

 

Dave

[Mr.t]

Thanks yall are all great. I appreciate all the tips,advice,from the best of the best.thanks mr.t

[RayburnGuy]

I built a frame to hold the plastic sheet securely on all four sides. This was then placed in the oven until the plastic started to sag. When the plastic got hot enough that it started to sag it was then placed on the vacuum former and the vacuum switched on. A heat gun was kept handy in case there were any tight spots the sheet didn't want to conform to. These areas were heated with the heat gun and pressure would be applied with a smooth bladed butter knife. I never had any problems with wrinkling when doing it this way and I even used some material that was 30 thousandths thick.

 

Ben

[Mr.t]

Thanks 4 the tip

[DingerBaits]

Some times I will cut the bait in half and do a stencil that way on the larger bodied ones. 

[Mr.t]

That's the way I done mine,maybe I'm not getting it hot enough

[simscustomcranks]

I use .020 and don't have any problems, I've never cut a bill down or haven't especially cut a lure in half! lol

[Mr.t]

Where do you get your plastic,and are you using heat gun or the oven method?

[simscustomcranks]

EBay, I use heat gun

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R8.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpetg+p.TRS0&_nkw=petg+clear+plastic+sheet&_sacat=0

[barr5150]

I had the same issue and found I wasn't getting the plastic hot enough before turning the vacuum on. I'd personally follow RayburnGuy's instructions. That method works very well.

[Mr.t]

Thanks I'll try more heat