Do-It Herring Head Underspin Wireforms

[cadman]

Mine is not a perfect fit but putting the opening forward I can close it and make it seal up fine rather easily.

So yours will not work with the wire forms backwards at all without modification? 

I agree making it fit either way should have been something they designed into it.

It just seems obvious to me that you would want the opening facing forward for the rare chance that the split ring blade combo could slip out.

Anyway here's a few I made to test the mold.

 

 

Chris,

    I like the looks of your jigs.  No mine does not fit in both directions, and yes I can modify the slot that holds the wireform to accept the wireform both ways. With that said, if I modify the slot and make it bigger to allow installing the wireform in both directions, I run the risk of having lead fill in the wireform eye. I don't want to do that, because I don't want to be cleaning lead from the wireform eye. So I am fine with the way it is, no big deal for me.

Edited February 13, 2016 by cadman

[Kasilofchrisn]

I hear you on cleaning the flash up that would be a royal pain!

I wish this mold had Do-It's wire keeper instead of the lead barb. That wire keeper is great for soft plastics.

Granted Randy Howell wanted that lead barb and he helped design this jig so it is what it is.

Likely not worth my time modifying this mold for it though.

Good luck with your wire form and do keep us updated. Hopefully you can list them on your website so when my stock of Do-It forms run out I can get some from you.

[Apdriver]

Chris,

    I like the looks of your jigs.  No mine does not fit in both directions, and yes I can modify the slot that holds the wireform to accept the wireform both ways. With that said, if I modify the slot and make it bigger to allow installing the wireform in both directions, I run the risk of having lead fill in the wireform eye. I don't want to do that, because I don't want to be cleaning lead from the wireform eye. So I am fine with the way it is, no big deal for me.

I wonder, with the right sized flat end mill, if it couldn't be modified without chances of flashing?

[Kasilofchrisn]

I wonder, with the right sized flat end mill, if it couldn't be modified without chances of flashing?

Possibly, but, if Cadman can come up with some modified wire forms then all users of Do-It molds could easily just buy a different wire form from him and not have to touch their molds.

[smallmouthaholic]

You can make your own wire forms and formed eyes w/ a good wire bender. Various diameters/lengths are readily available from Worth, Jann's , Barlows and Do-it.

[Walking Dead]

Agrees all. Many do not want to mod their mold and you would think the mold maker would have finished that wire form slot 'full round' instead of trying to make it to only fit their wire. I fully understand the business part though.

I am measuring one up to work a 60 degree jig hook in a couple using the wire form hole for the eye. I think I will be able to use the same slot for a longer wire shaft that will run through the adjacent cavity. Just measuring right now but it looks as if it will work. May have to nip some lead though.

[mark poulson]

Could you use JB Weld to keep the modified mold from flashing?

[Walking Dead]

Maybe, but I want to first try to make it use the two hook style, 60 and 90. That 5/8 cave is ripe for mod as nothing is to interfere on the handle side and the gap is small on the other. More to follow.

[LimpNoodle]

You can make your own wire forms and formed eyes w/ a good wire bender. Various diameters/lengths are readily available from Worth, Jann's , Barlows and Do-it.

 

 

The problem is getting the wire eye small enough.  Normal wire bender makes them too large.

 

The wire is pretty heavy to make a small loop with round nose pliers.

[smallmouthaholic]

The problem is getting the wire eye small enough.  Normal wire bender makes them too large.

 

The wire is pretty heavy to make a small loop with round nose pliers.

What diameter is the wire?

[LimpNoodle]

I'll have to mic it.  

[EironBreaker]

My question: why is the wire such a heavy gauge?  I modified a pony head mold previously to accept a wire form to attach a swivel to instead of using a barrel swivel.  I used a jigging spoon wire form, the one that has circle loops at each end.  Just clipped off one end and made  little bend in it so it would stay in the lead.  The wire was pretty light, I'm thinking 0.030".  When I got my wire forms for the underspin mold I was surprised how heavy the wire was.  I don't see the need for such heavy wire, what could the blade possibly hang on that would cause the wire to pull out even if it was 0.030"?

[cadman]

My question: why is the wire such a heavy gauge?  I modified a pony head mold previously to accept a wire form to attach a swivel to instead of using a barrel swivel.  I used a jigging spoon wire form, the one that has circle loops at each end.  Just clipped off one end and made  little bend in it so it would stay in the lead.  The wire was pretty light, I'm thinking 0.030".  When I got my wire forms for the underspin mold I was surprised how heavy the wire was.  I don't see the need for such heavy wire, what could the blade possibly hang on that would cause the wire to pull out even if it was 0.030"?

 

I totally agree with you. The wire form only holds a spinning blade not the hook. I would bet, that if you go thinner, the eyelet would never open up. Even at .030, that is pretty thick material to bend. My problem now comes from the fact, that if i go to a thinner wireform, I'll be back to the problem of having too much slop in the mold where the wireform eye sits, causing lead to seep in. So, if I use the same wire diameter, all is good, if I go thinner, then I might have to fill some gap in the mold. I'll keep working on this, when I get some time.

[EironBreaker]

You are right Ted, any change to the wire size would just result in lead seepage.  I just wonder how the designers come up with that thick of wire.  I'm sure it gives the company bending the forms fits to do it with that heavy of wire.  Nothing we can do about it now, just have to work with how the mold is made.

 

I personally would like the wire eye to be closed completely to start with.  I close them before pouring/painting.  If you close them after painting, you might chip the paint when closing it.  I understand why if using a barrel swivel though.  Oh well, just one little extra step in the process.

[LimpNoodle]

To prevent the lead flash/seepage you can do what I do when I modify a mold for hooks.

 

Fill the cavity with red RTV, do this on both sides of the mold.  Apply a liberal coating of talc powder (baby powder).  Now place the form in the cavity and apply some more talc.  Close the mold and clamp it closed.  Wait 24 hours, remove the form, blow out the talc and start pouring.
 

I've had to do this with some molds to prevent the lead from flashing around the hook eye.  On my smaller banana head jig mold if I use the EC 635 black nickle hooks the lead will flash.  A small bit of RTV saves me a lot of time.

Edited February 15, 2016 by LimpNoodle

[Apdriver]

I like this design better. I modified the ultra minnow mold to accept a line grip swivel and a little longer shank hook. The line grip is inside the bait. It has a slimmer profile and doesn't interfere with the blade. Here's a pic.

[LimpNoodle]

I like this design better. I modified the ultra minnow mold to accept a line grip swivel and a little longer shank hook. The line grip is inside the bait. It has a slimmer profile and doesn't interfere with the blade. Here's a pic.

 

 

Those look really nice.

[mark poulson]

I like this design better. I modified the ultra minnow mold to accept a line grip swivel and a little longer shank hook. The line grip is inside the bait. It has a slimmer profile and doesn't interfere with the blade. Here's a pic.

 

You are one clever devil!

When I first fished an underspin, in the early 2000's, it was made by a local SoCal maker, and had light wire to hold the blade and swivel.

They worked well, but I left them in a plano box with some salty plastics, and the hooks rusted away.

When the Sworming Hornet Fishhead Spin come out, the local maker just went away.  They had better hooks, hardware, and colos.

I think the heavier wire is to make production easier, not to make the bait work better.

Edited February 16, 2016 by mark poulson