drdmh Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 So, I got set up with a vacuum stencil maker and made a couple for each bait I paint. When i went to dremel out the designs, I failed miserably. It was awful. I see some of these guys on youtube moving around with their end mill bit like it's there job. I don't have the touch apparently. Anyone else find an acceptable option minus the exacto knife? I'd like to get a craw, tiger stripe, and lateral line stencils made but every one I try to make fails miserably. Please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 If you can clamp your stencil so both hands can guide the Dremel it will make controlling the Dremel a tad easier. Also go slow and use high spindle speed. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterChief Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Another good way is with a soldering iron with the smallest sharpest bit you can find. I actually took a needlepoint bit and ground it down to a fine point, go easy as it will melt away from the point if you get it too hot. You can use a flat point to smooth out any wrinkles formed from the vacuum process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-Mac Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 The hot knife (exacto blade style) soldering iron bit works great! Sometimes I think it's a little too hot (melts too fast) though, so I actually prefer using the exacto knife and just heat it up with a torch ever so often. I prefer to have a little resistance when I cut for more control, but not melt away all the material (which leaves additional mess to trim up). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdmh Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Awesome. Thanks for the help everyone. I kinda lost hope in using the molded stencils ever. I'll give these all a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I notice that you want to do tiger stripes. Try to do them by hand, not being perfect is just fine too. Just do them to your taste. The questions I really can't answer because I like the exacto knife with a sharpie to do the out lining of a pattern. Of course this is for plastic bodies. For wooden bodies the vacuum style just really can't be use over and over again (the way I do it). I still do the same but in a two dimension stencil, unless I'm try to do something special. The reason is, I may not be able to use it again. Give it a try, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdmh Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I use 2d stencils cut with an exacto knife as of right now. It turns out alright but for consistency from side to side, I'd like something a bit more repeatable. The scientific side of me really shines through sometimes. I appreciate your input though. This site has been priceless in this pursuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I was referring to the tiger design. IMO, nothing like lines etc are perfect in nature. Each (fish) has a different look, however over the grand scheme of nature, a fish is perfect as far as its self in general. That's what I meant about hand painting that scheme. I'm not a assembly line with baits. Each has its own characteristics, although will look like it species at the end. Overall I like painting baits in its natural scheme. In other words, "non perfection is perfection". Take Care, Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Dale - well stated and so correct. Evolution is based on imperfection. We should celebrate imperfection, not hide it away - a bit of soapbox work there Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdmh Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'm in complete agreement with you Dave. My B.S. is in zoology. Animals have been a key part of my life since I was aware of my surroundings. Nothing in nature has a straight line or is symmetrical. Unfortunately, when dealing with other fisherman and the baits they're used to, that understanding isn't readily available. Even in this art form, I like to be the same side to side. I have drawn on lines and patterns by hand when it comes to smaller baits. It works well and looks nice. When I'm painting 15 fire tigers for a guy, I'd like to have something easily repeatable and in a relatively short amount of time. Dave and dale I should say. Too many D names in one thread. -Dane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) Here is a very fine tip stencil burner. I have had mine for years and it works great. http://pjstencils.com/004_burner.html Edited January 29, 2016 by bass100 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpalinsk Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) DRDMH, I feel your stencil making pain. A couple of years ago, my experience was the same as yours and I gave up on vacuum form stencils. Recently, I decided to give it another go. After trying all the methods describe throughout this thread, I settled on the Xacto knife method for cutting stencils. Local hobby shop recommend the Excel Double honed blades as they are a better quality blade. He warned me that I would use a lot of them, and I do. After cutting, then I use the knife, sandpaper, Dremel sanding disks and a Dremel cutting bit to further shape and smooth out the stencil. It's a slow painstaking process and there is a lot of trial and error, but for me it's worth all the effort. I was looking for a "silver bullet" method of just draw, cut and use, and I didn't find it. I'm happy with my process and waiting to get more Petg sheets delivered so I can knock out some more. Added photo of the Fire Tiger template I made for a six oz jig. David Edited February 6, 2016 by dpalinsk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcallister920 Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Hot knife is definitely the ticket. hand draw your design onto the stencil with a fine point permanent marker. then let the hot knife get as hot as possible. I usually wait for a while and test out how hot it is by trying to cut a piece of scrap. this hot knife works well and is inexpensive: http://www.michaels.com/walnut-hollow-professional-hotknife/10389558.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Has anyone tried cutting the stencil before vacuum then tape over the cutout's and the form? Think it would be a bit easier to cut repeated patterns for both sides this way as you could place the stencil material over say a photocopy of the bait you are painting and just cut out over the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcallister920 Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I don't see that working for two reasons. 1- the form tends to shift and stretch when you are actually forming it making it a nightmare to insure the stencil would be centered properly. And 2- the shape of the cutouts would change when formed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Hot knife is definitely the ticket. hand draw your design onto the stencil with a fine point permanent marker. then let the hot knife get as hot as possible. I usually wait for a while and test out how hot it is by trying to cut a piece of scrap. this hot knife works well and is inexpensive: http://www.michaels.com/walnut-hollow-professional-hotknife/10389558.html Do you need to wear a respirator when you're using it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcallister920 Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 No, it doesn't smoke at all. There is some residual smell of hot plastic obviously. But nothing dangerous 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdmh Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 They just opened up a michael's in bismarck and I have yet to check out their stuff. Hobby Lobby has a pretty good selection of createx paint but that's about it. I think I'll be picking up that hot knife today. Thanks again for the input everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
