Thumb Dents In Senkos

[camrynekai]

We are. just giving an example on how to get around denting issues with something as simple as heat control.

[fishon-son]

Bear sells the sprue extenders but try topping off first thats ussally all it takes, a warm mold helps too.

did that wouldnt work .but, the 1 inch ext.worked great

[Groucho]

I just poured the stick bait in question in the 330 to 340 temp. range and by gosh it worked. Thanks a lot guys.

[Frank]

I just poured the stick bait in question in the 330 to 340 temp. range and by gosh it worked. Thanks a lot guys.

What temp were you using? And what are you using to get a temp reading?

On the gate part of the discussion, we can make them big enough to work on any mold but some baits I like the small gate so the nose of the bait get a nice shape. So I adjust what I do to make it work. Shooting cooler temps lets you demold much faster as the temp is much closer to the gel temp of the plastic. I never heat my plastic to 350 even in the beginning. I guess I never got that memo. Max temp first heating is about 340 at most. Most likely about 330.

[DaveMc1]

What temp were you using? And what are you using to get a temp reading?

On the gate part of the discussion, we can make them big enough to work on any mold but some baits I like the small gate so the nose of the bait get a nice shape. So I adjust what I do to make it work. Shooting cooler temps lets you demold much faster as the temp is much closer to the gel temp of the plastic. I never heat my plastic to 350 even in the beginning. I guess I never got that memo. Max temp first heating is about 340 at most. Most likely about 330.

 

I do have a couple molds like this as well, smaller runner and tiny gate, if I hold pressure for a few seconds it gets around the dents, most of the baits I have had made we use the largest gate we can get away with and still have a good break point to make pulling them off the runner easy. 

 

I think Carolina Mike mentioned an easy way to tell if your plastic was heated to a proper temp is to dip one in acetone. if it dissolves it didn't reach a proper temp. Personally Ive never tried it, I just made it a habit to hit at 350 on the initial heat. 

[Frank]

Well my temp must be good cause I use acetone to clean my bench and tools and it does not touch the plastic. Maybe soften it a bit but not melt.

[DaveMc1]

Well my temp must be good cause I use acetone to clean my bench and tools and it does not touch the plastic. Maybe soften it a bit but not melt.

 

Well there you go LOL. 

[Groucho]

Well the denting problem is almost solved with lowering the temp. Now I have a hollowing problem. I'm pouring 2 bits 4" stick baits molds. The first mold I inject is usually fine it's the second that I have hollow baits. The first 2 not the last 2. One thing I just thought of is I have side injection and I turn them up to inject. Could that be it.

[Frank]

Sounds like you need more plastic. Is there any plastic in the injector when you are done shooting?

[DaveMc1]

Could be that you need to top off your runner as it sucks the plastic down. Double check that your injector holds enough plastic, then if you still have the hollow baits try topping off the mold a couple times as it cools. 

[Groucho]

yes there is but I only get the hollow worms in the 2nd mold I pour. Also I have about 1 1/2 to 2 " of residue plastic in the injector after I'm done with the mold and squirt the remaining plastic back in the container. I'm losing that much of waste every time that I have to remelt. With that and the waste from the molds it seems to be alot. Thoughts?

[mark poulson]

Maybe you need to hold pressure on the injector a bit longer with the second mold.