fishon-son Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 put your tube put in the oven at 250 for about 5/10 mins....or on the stove..if you have a gas stove your all set. that will heat up quick on the burner...but dont get it to hot ..melt your o-ring...wear gloves to... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I dunno if you wanna mess with it but that bait looks like a perfect candidate for an open pour mold. No worries then about ait becoming trapped. Just a thought, but I am no mold maker/designer. It just seems like that would rectify your problem and it would be a really easy pour wwith the lack of small parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) nobody asked so i will...i know it dont matter....but,,,, what are we fishing for..?????? thats a big hook slot..WOW thats a big lure....i thinking salt water..maybe.....oh wait your from texas everything is big in texas.....wow.... Edited February 14, 2016 by fishon-son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 nobody asked so i will...i know it dont matter....but,,,, what are we fishing for..?????? thats a big hook slot..WOW thats a big lure....i thinking salt water..maybe.....oh wait your from texas everything is big in texas.....wow.... big bass! I grew up killing bass on zoom flukes but they don't make them any where near big enough. Took matters into my own hands! I like throwing big 10" swimbaits but this lure will be able to get into the nasty places that treble hooks can't. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 What hook are you going to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 What hook are you going to use? 10/0 Trokar magnum swimbait hooks 8/0 & 10/0 warbaits slayer swimbait jig heads I may even make it a line-thru with an 11/0 owner worm hook 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 You have a plastic that works well and doesn't scorch or burn at 400 degrees? How many reheats do you get? I usually inject around 300-305. Sometimes as low as 295 when I have a problem mold. I have people want me to make designs sometimes I know up front are going to be problems. When they refuse to modify their design I still have to try to find a way to make it work. Thick body baits are tough. A lot of my little "tricks" just don't work for the big stuff. Open pour is popular for the big stuff because you can pour hot to fill the details and all the bubbles just float out, but I do understand the allure of a fully round bait. As others have mentioned. Purge your injector. Inject at as low of a temperature as you can to get your mold to fill. Hold pressure for a LOOOOOOOOOONG time after its full. Since my last reply I've struggled with what I believe is shrinkage on one side of the nose. I'll attach photos to show you guys what I'm dealing with. I originally was using 400 degree plastic since my gate and preheated injector kept freezing. I've been using Do-it essential series plastisol and I've been getting close to 10 reheats while adding a little fresh plastic every other reheat. Also being extremely careful in reheating at a slow rate to stave off scorching. I just don't feel like my plastic flows enough until it's about 330 degrees. I'm going to try with fresh plastic tonight, maybe that will help it flow at a lower temp. As far as rigging the bait. I've got a 10/0 3/4oz Trokar swimbair hook along with owner beasts of the same size. Playing with coffee stirs as a "line-thru" the nose in order to get the hook to ride completely in the hook slot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 up north when you up size your bait like that ..a fat muskie or pike will take you for a ride...the one side looks great..have you tryed to make it a top pour or inject ? if you get it to go id be willing to buy a bait and hook in the color pearl from you...would love to give it a run on some muskie waters.......hope you get it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 up north when you up size your bait like that ..a fat muskie or pike will take you for a ride...the one side looks great..have you tryed to make it a top pour or inject ? if you get it to go id be willing to buy a bait and hook in the color pearl from you...would love to give it a run on some muskie waters.......hope you get it..... I'll keep you posted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 I usually inject around 300-305. Sometimes as low as 295 when I have a problem mold. Ok this plastic just isn't melting enough. It's fresh and not quite liquid at 300. Just doesn't seem workable. Is there a brand of plastic out there that has low melt temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Ok this plastic just isn't melting enough. It's fresh and not quite liquid at 300. Just doesn't seem workable. Is there a brand of plastic out there that has low melt temp? Spike It has an Easy Flow, not sure if its soft, med or hard though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Spike it's clearasol is another great one to try it is thin at low temps. Also you never mentioned what formula you use, if it is hard it is now going to be very thin at low temps. Or if you poured off the top of your plastic and now you just have the harder stuff that could be a factor. Remember the higher the heat the more the schrinkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Ok this plastic just isn't melting enough. It's fresh and not quite liquid at 300. Just doesn't seem workable. Is there a brand of plastic out there that has low melt temp? Maybe I'm misunderstanding what happened but you need to get it to ~350 when using fresh plastic and then let it cool to 300ish to shoot it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Spike it's clearasol is another great one to try it is thin at low temps. Also you never mentioned what formula you use, if it is hard it is now going to be very thin at low temps. Or if you poured off the top of your plastic and now you just have the harder stuff that could be a factor. Remember the higher the heat the more the schrinkage. I'm using Do-it Essential series, there isn't a listed hardness or softness to it. I'd say it's a regular softness. Gonna have to research the spike it you guys spoke of for sure. I'm also beginning to think I'm not holding enough pressure. A few of you have mentioned holding pressure for extending periods of time. If I pull the injector off while the gate is still flowing, could that cause back flow up into the sprue leaving the indentions in the lure? That makes sense to me... What say ye? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Maybe I'm misunderstanding what happened but you need to get it to ~350 when using fresh plastic and then let it cool to 300ish to shoot it. Since these fellas have mentioned the 300 degree mark, I have been doing precisely what you just mentioned. That's the only way I can get the air bubbles from mixing out as it is. Just used the last of my fresh plastic so maybe I can elaborate on this temp method next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 I am just a hobby pourer, and only inject a handful of molds at a time, so I don't know if this will help. Silicone molds hold heat longer than aluminum molds, in my experience. If I were pouring an enormous swimbait like yours, I'd make sure I had a long enough sprue that would hold enough hot plastic to allow it to be sucked back down into the mold as the plastic cooled. A tall vertical sprue provides gravity fed pressure. I also would seriously consider open pouring the bottom half, and then closing the mold and pouring the rest of it. I realize you have modified the mold to be a top pour, so this may no longer be possible for you. Your mold is so big you might even be able to hand pour it, if you make the sprue hole big enough, and just keep topping it off until it stops sucking plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 I know I mentioned it before but I feel like this lure would be great for an open pour mold. Then there would be no need to worry about sprue or gates or anything else. Just simply pour the plastic in and it's done. But being as big as it is it may be difficult to not get a concave top on the bait. Maybe somebody else with more experience pouring those big open pour swimbaits can chime in on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted February 26, 2016 Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 I'm using Do-it Essential series, there isn't a listed hardness or softness to it. I'd say it's a regular softness. Gonna have to research the spike it you guys spoke of for sure. I'm also beginning to think I'm not holding enough pressure. A few of you have mentioned holding pressure for extending periods of time. If I pull the injector off while the gate is still flowing, could that cause back flow up into the sprue leaving the indentions in the lure? That makes sense to me... What say ye? Your baits have come along way for the first picture. Holding pressure on an aluminium mold is much die efferent than a silicone one, it has some give to it. And when you let off the pressure it could be causing this. You are sure you have a pretty bubble free mold? What I mean by that is that you have no big air bubbles anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc37 Posted February 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 Your baits have come along way for the first picture. Holding pressure on an aluminium mold is much die efferent than a silicone one, it has some give to it. And when you let off the pressure it could be causing this. You are sure you have a pretty bubble free mold? What I mean by that is that you have no big air bubbles anywhere. In the last few attempts I've had no air bubbles or voids, just the dimple on the nose. I think holding pressure may have a lot to do with it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
