nedyarb Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Where would I find someone to make me one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 (edited) Custom made press punch and die. Local machine shop or similar should be able to whip one up for you with ease. With about every one's grandmother now having equipment to do this sort of stuff not too difficult finding someone that can do that work. Edited February 11, 2016 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jawjacker Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 I see someone has been looking through my pics.............LMAO......... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted February 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 So do you know where I can get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jawjacker Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I made that one myself........I bought an end mill and a metal lathe so I could do everything....In House.......that one took a couple of dys working on it in spare time after work......... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted February 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks Jawjacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jawjacker Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 That one is D2 Tool steel.......hardened to 60 on a Rockwell scale.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 i guess punching your own is better then machining them....thanks for the share...you can flame harden with motor oil ,in a coffee can... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 here we go again bob, most people on here I'm thinking work out of there garages or sheds....im thinking most cant afford heat treatment and want to make there own punch cutter.(if they can).....if you use reg.motor oil and can heat your punch with a heat source and get it cherry red but not to over heat it....grab it with pliers and drop it in a coffee can(quench) of motor oil..the carbon in the oil will harden the punch ..( carb harden) now if you over heat it and get it to hot it will crack the part....motor oil can be used oil but not synthetic oil...that has no carbon in it....the oil will flash and start on fire sometimes..just put a rag over the topof the can and that will put it out...make sure your part is cherry red hot and just drop it in.......BOB IT WORKS....you can use 4140 ,o1,or any steel that will carb harden.d2 m2 m4 will most likely crack if it gets to hot ..the hardening is not needed but your punch and die will last longer if you heat treat them...2 qts. or more is all that's needed....just enough to get your part covered is what your looking for but. if you have more oil the better..do a couple oil changes on the car and truck then use that oil...I have a steel 5 gal paint can in the shop..and that's what we use.....if anyone wants to make there own punch and die and your not sure of how to do this pm me.your phone number.and ill call you..its not hard to do and will work for what your doing....a propane torch will work that used to solder copper pipe....just will take a little pit to heat your punch.....scrap steel from the scrap yard will work to most yards have there steel marked look for o1 40rc.or better will be just fine or just take your steel file and rub a corner if it digs in your part is soft if it slides across your more then hard..most mill bastard files are over 60 rc. harden...THERES NO JUJU BOB. JUST SOME BACK YARD MECHANICS I PICKED UP YEARS AGO....please pm me if needed I'm willing to help anyone anytime...boy bob id like to walk into your shop....man we would have some fun......peace bro..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) We used a powdered carbon in school metalwork class. More time held at the temperature would mean more carbon absorption. BOB - no, it doesn't, but we'll let you play anyway. Dave Edited February 16, 2016 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Is that like case hardening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Mark - case hardening is what I remember it being called. Bob - yes, slippers count for those Eureka moments, when you rush to the cave to try something out. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Being a CWI in welding and having a tad bit of understanding about metals. Bob is right, it all depends on the make up of the metal. Quenching can make the metal brittle. It can take away it's ductility. My suggestion is to let the pro's do it for you. Buy the right metals at the beginning. You can find excellent metals at scrape yards at a nice price. Bob I would say you have been around a machine shop or you have worked with metals a time or two. Take Care, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I remember, way back in the stone age, I took metal shop and I made a cold chisel. After I beveled the tip, the shop teacher and I heated it in the forge to red hot, then dipped in the water bucket quickly. We pulled it back out, and watched as the color of the steel on the tip changed as it cooled. When it reached a straw color, we put the chisel back in the quenching bucket again, and let it cool all the way. I gave that chisel to my father, and he used it for years, so I guess we did it right, but I sure didn't know exactly what we were doing at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archeryrob Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I wanted to be able to be consistent with making my dive lips. I am not a machinist and don't have the fancy tools like a mill and things, so I went at in simply with the tools available to me. I have a computer with AutoCAD, a band saw and a belt sander. I design my lips in AutoCAD and print them out, glue them on the lexan or plexi and cut and sand them out. Here is the full write up on it. Here is one still with the glued on template and one with the template off ready to be inserted into the lure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I wanted to be able to be consistent with making my dive lips. I am not a machinist and don't have the fancy tools like a mill and things, so I went at in simply with the tools available to me. I have a computer with AutoCAD, a band saw and a belt sander. I design my lips in AutoCAD and print them out, glue them on the lexan or plexi and cut and sand them out. Here is the full write up on it. Here is one still with the glued on template and one with the template off ready to be inserted into the lure. nice job you did here ..very good idea ..sometimes keeping it simple is a better and cheaper way.....this will go into the memory bank for sure....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 Nice Blog Rob. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 18, 2016 Report Share Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) Yes, good job. I do mine exactly the same way. I design the shapes so that they suit my tools, mainly the belt sander with the disk. The only thing that I do extra, is add a centre line to the template. After shaping the profile, I scratch the faintest of lines on the end of the lip to represent the centreline. Dave Edited February 18, 2016 by Vodkaman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 19, 2016 Report Share Posted February 19, 2016 I free hand my lip templates on Postits, using old lips on cranks at models. I cut them out with scissors, then fold them in half and trip so they are symmetrical. This also gives me the fold to act as a centerline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlaze Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Where would I find someone to make me one of these? Hey guys, I went down to Rob's (JawJacker's) shop today and actually held this thing in my hand. He made it himself. I was very impressed with the things I saw. He is a very talented and versatile person and is not only a crankbait guru but makes other lures as well. If I were not so old, I would hire him to teach me the ropes. I really enjoyed my visit with him. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlaze Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 I design my lips using the paint program on my computer I make half of a bib then copy and paste, flip it horizontally then move it beside the first half merging the top, bottom and center lines, this gives me a perfectly symmetrical bib. Like Archeryrob I glue these to my lexan or circuit board, cut them out and sand down to the lines. I don't sell them so I have no need for being fast and efficient when making them but am very happy with the results. John 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 I design my lips using the paint program on my computer I make half of a bib then copy and paste, flip it horizontally then move it beside the first half merging the top, bottom and center lines, this gives me a perfectly symmetrical bib. Like Archeryrob I glue these to my lexan or circuit board, cut them out and sand down to the lines. I don't sell them so I have no need for being fast and efficient when making them but am very happy with the results. John Another nice thing about designing lips on the computer is that you can save the file and when you need more lips just print them out and they will be exact copies. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 What kind of glue are ya'll using? Ive traced my template on painters tape, but as i sand close to the line, sometimes the tape peals up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 JR - I use the simple, paper glue stick. This has worked fine for me. Yes, if you let the glue dry out too long (days), it will tend to peel. I generally stick the paper down and start work on the lip within minutes, not hours. What I really like, is the lack of clean-up required on removal. Peal, then soak and clean in warm, soapy water. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Just print your lips onto labels that you can buy from Walmart, Staples, etc. Then just cut them out and stick them on. I buy my labels from onlinelabels.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
