MuskyGary Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Anyone use this as a top coat? I use it to dip my jigheads in (helps hold the eyes on) I know a couple of people who use it as a top coat on their spray painted plugs and swear by it. They say, no hook rash or cracks after using it. Just wondering if anyone else uses it. By the way it's sold by Lurepartsonline.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Musky: I use CS Seal-Coat as a top coat. Thinned at least 10% with water and sprayed with an airbrush. Takes about three coats but they dry fast. Recoat in 30 minutes or so depending on humidity and temperature. It will be dry to the touch in less than an hour. Then if you can let it cure for a day before you drag it over rocks and limbs. It is very clear and I have seen no yellowing on lures that are three years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy3 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I used it on some spinner blades but have not been able to lake test them yet due to the 15" of ice on Bago. It sprayed nice after thinning and I put 3 light coats on the blades. Nice and clear and seemed solid. I have some cranks I was going to try it on but waiting for eyes to finish them before the clear. Have used on jigs so the painted eyes don't rub off in the tackle box and it seems to hold up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy3 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I forgot to add, don't put the UV blast over the seal coat, it will crack. I did some blades and forgot to separate the ones I wanted the UV blast on and said screw it and put it over the seal coat. It cracked. I'm hoping the little bit of UV that I put on will add something in low light conditions with the cracking, kind of like the crackle finish I've seen done but we can't see it. Worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walleyeking Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just to let you know UV isn't really for low light conditions it brings out the UV light from the sun. More like glow for day light. If you have no UV light coming in the UV blast won't do anything. You need some sort of glow in the dark pigment that captures light for low light conditions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Does plastisol melt the CS Sealcoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks for the information guys. I'm going to go ahead and buy a pint. Don't know the effect it has on plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walleyeking Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 No the seal-coat is plastisol compatible plastic doesn't effect it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy3 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I'm going to have to disagree with you walleyeking. UV coatings can spook some fish if its to sunny out. I did a tourny last year and it was very foggy in the morning. Pink jig that had a UV blast coating was hot untill the sun came out. Switched to a pink without the UV and it was back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Totally agree with WalleyeKing. There has to be sunlight, including cloudy, for the UV to be reflected. Do not confuse UV and photo luminescent paints which actually GIVE light off in total darkness. Stewy3 - your UV did not have any effect until the sun came out. This changed the look of the lure and the fish did not like it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy3 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) Not to start an argument but info I found at CS web site seemed ligit. Don't want to rock the boat here since I'm new but the older i get, the more stubborn I get. http://www.csipaint.com/products/uv-fishing-lure-paint/uv-fishing-lure-paint-faqs.php Edited February 15, 2016 by Stewy3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 On clear lakes in SoCal, a transparent Ika with black flake, dipped in UV coating. gets hammered on overcast and foggy days. I haven't tried it on the Delta yet, but, as soon as the muddy water clears a little.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) Stewy3 - No worries, we are just trying to understand the product AND each other. First line on your link states: 'UV Blast is a chemical coating that reflects ultraviolet light'. For UV Blast coating to appear UV, there must be UV light shining on it. Even on cloudy, foggy conditions there is UV light present. A bright moon is a source of UV light, the stars too, but they are too feint to be effective. The whole point of using UV, is that UV light penetrates deeper than all other light wavelengths. We all know that red is the first color to disappear, penetrating only a few feet, and blue is the deepest. Note the color spectrum: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, violet. These colors are quoted in the order of wave length or depth to which they penetrate. The next color in the list would be ultra violet. How bright the UV shines/reflects is dependent on the amount of light. Moonlight will give very low reflection, but at least some. A cloudy, foggy morning will give a little more, this is all common sense. BUT, a cloudy night sky is going to give zero UV reflection UNLESS you are using a Glo-in-the-dark UV coating, which will actually emit light and will require re-charging occasionally. In low light conditions, UV blast has more chance of visibility than any other color. In fact, if you were fishing deep with your jig, the pink would not penetrate to any significant depth with it being at the red end of the spectrum. The jig would have merely been a dark shadow from below and a hint of UV from above. I have a feeling that we are all arguing the same case here, just from different angles. Dave Edited February 15, 2016 by Vodkaman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewy3 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Well, after some screwing around with the seal coat on painted baits, I'm not convinced it will hold up on a crank bait. It is however a nice mid coat with glitter before a top coat of etex. Don't over brush or you will streak the paint if using water based like Createx. Not sure if it's because the plastic body? It is very hard on a spinner blade and will continue to use it on them since is sprays well when thinned. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Musky: I use CS Seal-Coat as a top coat. Thinned at least 10% with water and sprayed with an airbrush. Takes about three coats but they dry fast. Recoat in 30 minutes or so depending on humidity and temperature. It will be dry to the touch in less than an hour. Then if you can let it cure for a day before you drag it over rocks and limbs. It is very clear and I have seen no yellowing on lures that are three years old. what kind of airbrush do you use? I've been skeptical about doing this since I've had a bad experience running this stuff through an airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 (edited) what kind of airbrush do you use? I've been skeptical about doing this since I've had a bad experience running this stuff through an airbrush. One of the cheaper Paasche, sorry dont recall the exact model. You are correct about your concerns with spraying CS through the air brush. Just clean as soon as you are finished with the top coat and you are good to go. The air brushes always require a complete tear-down and cleanup from time to time. I take mine apart and soak in lacquer thinner overnight and the gunk comes off easy. Edited March 5, 2016 by JimP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 One of the cheaper Paasche, sorry dont recall the exact model. You are correct about your concerns with spraying CS through the air brush. Just clean as soon as you are finished with the top coat and you are good to go. The air brushes always require a complete tear-down and cleanup from time to time. I take mine apart and soak in lacquer thinner overnight and the gunk comes off easy. Awsome, I've got two good paasches i don't want to ruin heh. I'll have to experiment with this and see how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Would mineral spirits work for cleaning out the airbrush after use with cs clear coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Would mineral spirits work for cleaning out the airbrush after use with cs clear coat? Use water, and try some of the air brush cleaning solutions. When you find the cleaner that works well let me know. I think the trick is to clean out as soon as you can when you are done. CS is a little more prone to plugging than the water based paints but not a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I think im going to get a cheap airbrush just in case. i don't want to messed up my two good ones. I know it may cause headaches getting a cheaper brush, but better then screwing up one of my good ones. Thanks for the info and tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) I think im going to get a cheap airbrush just in case. i don't want to messed up my two good ones. I know it may cause headaches getting a cheaper brush, but better then screwing up one of my good ones. Thanks for the info and tips. If you get another Air brush get a larger nozzle. You are not doing detail work but top coating. Lay it on thick and shiny and put on a turner and come back in 30 minutes. Three coats make a good finish usually. Edited March 6, 2016 by JimP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 If you get another Air brush get a larger nozzle. You are not doing detail work but top coating. Lay it on thick and shiny and put on a turner and come back in 30 minutes. Definitely going to give it a shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
