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What Should I Use To Make My Lures?

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Hello all! I'm rather new to TU and I don't know if there is a search function, so forgive me if this question has been asked already. I'm thinking about making a silicone mold for hard swimbaits. What should I use to make the lure? I've heard good things about resin and pvc, but which brands are the best? It would also be really nice if I could get it off of Amazon...  Thanks for reading!

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I would run away because once you get into this deal, life will never be the same. You'll look at normal everyday items and try to figure out how to use them to make your next lure. You'll daydream and doodle at work about your next lure build. You'll spend more money than you thought you had in pursuit of the next great lure!

 

Oh wait, never mind, all that sounds like fun to me. I would recommend PVC. There is a pinned topic called "why pvc" at the top of the hard baits forum regarding this subject.

Edited by FrogAddict
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I would run away because once you get into this deal, life will never be the same. You'll look at normal everyday items and try to figure out how to use them to make your next lure. You'll daydream and doodle at work about your next lure build. You'll spend more money than you thought you had in pursuit of the next great lure!

 

Oh wait, never mind, all that sounds like fun to me. I would recommend PVC. There is a pinned topic called "why pvc" at the top of the hard baits forum regarding this subject.

Hahahah lol. I know what I'm getting into  :D

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The urethane resin will not stick to the silicone, but a spray of mold release will make any detail on the silicone mold last longer. You will need some mold release if you plan on making a two piece silicone mold as well. Watch the makelure.com videos, and check out solarfall baits videos on YouTube. He has lots of great how-to's.

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While not ideal you can make a mold with hard material.  I could get around 75-100 baits out of my POP or Rock puddy molds on simple designs.  The key is you have to design a bait that will not lock itself into place.  I also was using a 16 lb polyurethane foam and typically used a mold release of some sort.   With a little experience you can get away with some minor undercuts with foamies but need to pay attention to mold times as you can demold and it has a little give still but wait a minute longer and locked in.   (search foamies for more info).

 

supports007.jpg

 

As you  can see around the gills in the top water there is no undercut just undulations around the gill as to avoid locking the bait in place.  That top water and similar designs easy to do with hard molds.  

 

craw.jpg

 

This style crank can be done also but molding the lip slot would not work well and will end up breaking off quickly in a hard mold.  You would be better off molding it solid and then cut the slot after.  Do you master right and you can mold in cut lines for the lip slot.  However an RTV mold is much better solution. I first made a solid mold for testing while my RTV came in for that crank.

 

Craw-1-1.jpg

 

A crank design as above would be no go.  The claws would be problematic along with the underside in some areas and the recess near the eyes.  RTV only way to go for your sanity.

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I try and stay away from oils in general as just seams they always are messy and a tendency to get everywhere and seam to be more prone  to have issues later with paint and topcoat.  I used Johnson paste wax, Mann Ease Release, and talc and toyed with various other things but typically a good RTV mold and urethane foam didn't need to use release too often.  Usually when became and issue just made new molds.

Edited by Travis
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Yes, oil is messy, but you have to scrub your castings anyway, as they do come with an oily surface, regardless of release.

 

Like I said, the release is hardly necessary with resin on silicone, I think it helps things flow in the pour and it makes me feel better. I use olive oil, purely because I have this in my kitchen. Any oil will do.

 

Dave

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I have not used silicone for this purpose, but fully intend to do so one day.

For a quick test, a few minutes ago I cut a slice off the edge of an old scrap silicone mold and did some tugging and tearing. I would describe the test piece as near indestructible. I don't see any powerful jaws and sharp teeth could get near silicone, due to its strong, elastic qualities.

Dave

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You would have a hard time finding paint and clear coat for the silicone... I would try mixing in a colorant before pouring, experiment first to see if it affects the cure

Just curious, how long does the average RTV take to set?... Mine takes at least 24 hours (sometimes more)... I dont mind waiting a day or two for a new mold, but if i were making lure pieces i believe i would find a quicker setting material

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