When To Add Screw Eyes

[Bassachusetts]

I'm pouring some resin wakebaits, and plan to join them just like a slammer (just 2 screw eyes interlocking). Should I add the screw eyes before pouring the resin, so that they are embedded in it, or will I be able to screw the eyes into the hardened resin afterwards? Thanks

[Vodkaman]

I think you can go either way.

 

But rather than screwing into the resin, my plan would be to drill an over-sized diameter hole and glue the eye in. Maybe just tight enough to catch the threads and let the epoxy do the work.

 

Dave

[Bassachusetts]

Thanks Dave! Any recommendation for a cheap glue that will work for this? Don't want any eyes to come off while fishing

[Vodkaman]

Definitely an epoxy.

 

Dave

[A-Mac]

I like using the Gorilla super glue. I haven't had any issues. I dab a little on the threads and also use a syring to inject some in the cavity. I do similar to what Dave suggests. I drill a pilot hole first, just smaller than the threads. I then drill a hole slightly larger than the threads of the eyescrew approximately half the distance of the first hole.

[token12]

I'm pouring some resin wakebaits, and plan to join them just like a slammer (just 2 screw eyes interlocking). Should I add the screw eyes before pouring the resin, so that they are embedded in it, or will I be able to screw the eyes into the hardened resin afterwards? Thanks

 

You can go either way.  I mainly just screw them in after the resin has cured, just be sure to use epoxy or something to secure it in really well. 

[mark poulson]

I'm pouring some resin wakebaits, and plan to join them just like a slammer (just 2 screw eyes interlocking). Should I add the screw eyes before pouring the resin, so that they are embedded in it, or will I be able to screw the eyes into the hardened resin afterwards? Thanks

The Slammer was developed and perfected over time.  They played with everything until they got a bait that worked.

For me, the problem with hinged joints is how loose/tight to make them.  Once you've established that, duplicating it is easy.

I would suggest you make some kind of an adjustable prototype, so you can play around with joint gaps to find what works best for you bait.

If you are going to copy the Slammer exactly, including the angle of the joint cuts and the spacing of the joint itself, you could make jigs for cutting the joints, or pour them in two pieces, and make spacers to hold the joint space while the epoxy sets.

You really don't need to drill a hole much larger than the threads of the screw eye, because, if you use a glue epoxy like D2T, that will help you keep the screw eyes straight and in line, and the epoxy will make a strong bond to a tight hole.

I'd suggest you take the time to get a prototype to work perfectly first, so you know what you need to get the bait to work.

Edited February 23, 2016 by mark poulson

[Vodkaman]

Here is a thread that I started on Hinge jigs, with a video of my jig. Slightly different, as it is a pin/eye rather than an eye/eye, but the principle is valid.

 

Dave

 

Edit - link added, thanks Mark

Edited February 23, 2016 by Vodkaman

[mark poulson]

Here is a thread that I started on Hinge jigs, with a video of my jig. Slightly different, as it is a pin/eye rather than an eye/eye, but the principle is valid.

 

Dave

 

You forgot the link.

[mark poulson]

Here is a thread that I started on Hinge jigs, with a video of my jig. Slightly different, as it is a pin/eye rather than an eye/eye, but the principle is valid.

 

Dave

 

Edit - link added, thanks Mark

I just watched your video again.  I forgot how elegant you jig is, and how much fun the video is to watch!