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Super Ron

Clear Coat Of Rubber Swimbaits

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I want to carve and make my own swimbaits.   My plan is to mold them out of Alumilite Flex rubber.    I want a swim tail that has the ability give a good tail swimming action.   Not sure which Flex to start with as I haven't done this before, but was going to start at the 60 and work up or down from there.    My big question really deals with a clear coat.   I am going to airbrush them but can't figure out what to use for the clear to protect the paint.    I assume Devcon 2 would be too stiff and/or crack.   Any suggestions?

 

Ron

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If you are planning to carve a master and then make a mold and pour them with resin, there is a thread here about Art Resin that seems to be very good.  I have not used it myself, so I'm just going by what has been posted here.

If you're going to carve them using wood for the finished bait, look for a decoupage type epoxy, like EnviroTex Lite.  There are others, but I've used that one and it works.

It is designed to go over large wooden surfaces, like bar tops and tables, so it move with the wood as it expands and contracts.

I used to use two coats.  I would put my bait on the turner in the evening, brush on the first coat, turn on the turner and check the bait for the first 30 minutes, so I could catch any drips or sags from too much material, or see any bare spots, in time to fix them before the epoxy got unworkable.

I would let the bait turn overnight, and then brush on a second coat and let it turn all day.

Because it is meant to move with the wood, it is stays flexible.  Hard enough for bass baits, but not hard.  A toothy critter can puncture it, and rocks will dent it.  But it is the only top coat I found that would work with decent success on big wooden lures.

Good luck.

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Mark/Dave,

 

Thanks for the responses.   I apologize if what I typed confused anyone.    I am retired now due to someone deciding they wanted to  drive in my lane more than I did and now sometimes my head doesn't think to clearly.    So I will break down in better thought what I want to do and hope that it's a clear as mud.   Or at least stained water.

 

I want to carve my own lure out of PVC board and use it as a master

Then I want to make a mold of the lure. 

I was thinking of casting the lure out of Aluminite Flex 60 to make a 1 piece rubber swimbait much like I've seen on here or Matt Lures. 

Questions:  Has anyone used Flex 60 and does it have enough flex to allow for tail movement or am I just out of the ball park on this?   If you pour the Flex60 around a hook, how well does it hold a hook and will it stand up to more than a couple bass? 

 

I have what I need to make my airbrushing templets and when I move to Nebraska next week I will have a small city pond to experiment with hooks and weights as I have an idea how to make 1 lure with interchangeable weights to make a float, slow slink, and fast sink with the same lure.   That way if conditions change or if cover/structure changes, you can adjust of the fly.

 

Next question Mark answered about the clear coat: And that was finding a clear that I would use that will flex with the tail movement without cracking.

 

 

Like I said, I am retired now and all I have is time.    I did pour my own plastic baits but after my accident, I didn't think I would be physically able to pour again.    So, I  gave all my injection molds and supplies to my son and he is getting favorable comments on his FB page from his club members.

 

Any suggestions on hooks would be appreciated.   I'm assuming if the Flex will hold the hook well enough, I can get hooks from Janns with a 90 degree bend at the eye.

 

Since my typing is giving me hell today, I will end with this is an awesome site and thank you to everyone who posts on here.  

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Super Ron
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Ron - your head is working fine, just wanted to make sure that we are all pulling in the same direction.

 

A few TU members are painting soft plastics, but applying a protective layer is not really an option or you will lose the flex. Spike-it paints seem to be the popular choice.

 

Dave

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I will have to rethink some things.   I thought some of the nicer ones I've seen and would like to work up to (again nothing but time) had been airbrushed.   I will have to consider  other options like jointed swimbaits.  That would be something I could airbrush and clear.   If I'm understanding the Spike it paints, they are brush on not airbrushed.   Unfortunately brushing would be harder for me do to LACK of talent.

Thanks for the info guys.

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If you are talking about making swimbaits out of PVC Plastisol (plastic) and not Rubber (Silicone etc) then yes the paints from Spike It will work and work very good through an airbrush. Their SB Coat paints are the solvent based paints that really don't require a top coat but if you top coat them with clear SB Coat or dip them in clear plastic it can make the colours really pop. Their CoLure Coat waterbased paint does require either a coat of the SB Coat clear or a dip in clear plastic. With both of these paints it is very beneficial to have their appropriate retarder on hand when airbrushing. They do have a VPI paint, it is identical to the SB Coat but not hasn't been reduced to be ready to use like the SB Coat, and comes in quarts and gallons. 

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I think we are in the soft plastics forum :lolhuh: I think the solvent based paint would be the way to go but I would contact spike it first to confirm it will play nice with the alumilite flex, as for a clear coat that one will be interesting to hear how you make out try contacting alumilite and see if they have a suggestion other than that you could try dipping into plastisol but it may not adhere properly?

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