How To Prevent Bubbles When Hand Pouring

[mark poulson]

I am only a hobby pourer, and buy a gallon at a time, but I did try a boxed plastic from Caney Creek.  I found the last of the plastic was harder, even though I rotated the box several times whenever I used some.

I use Bait Junky's plastic now, and I shake it every so often to keep it from separating.  I had to do that with every plastic I've used.  I like the translucent gallon jugs because I can see if the plastic is starting to separate.

None of them are perfect, and no two pourers have the same procedures, requirements, or budgets.

I suggest you find a plastic you can afford that performs like you want, mostly.  

Figure out it's quirks, learn to use it, and stop worrying if it's perfect.

And don't feel like you have to defend your choices to the world.  What makes you happy is what makes you happy, and that's what's important.

If you are a commercial bait maker, talking to others like you who already use whatever brand you're thinking of trying is a good way to shorten the learning curve.  I did that here, and, like I said, I'm just a hobby pourer.

[Vodkaman]

Frank - I am not so sure that the bubbles caused by moisture will bubble off and be gone once you pass 212F. If the pockets of moisture are microscopic, the bubbles, though larger, may still be too small to break the surface tension of the plastic.

 

If the bubbles form at 212F or just higher, yes, they are moisture, and be confirmed by cooling lower than 212F when they should vanish.

 

This is from an engineering point of view. I will however, bow to experience.

 

Dave

[majic man]

Vodkaman, you can take a gallon jug that is 100% bubble free and shake the snot out of it and get bubbles terrible. Its really no different then epoxy or silicone in that nature. If you add some moisture on purpose and try the same thing it will foam on top. This is just from my expiermentation.

[Vodkaman]

Majic man - indeed, you are correct. BUT, air bubbles will be present at lower temperatures than 212F (water boiling point). Both air bubbles and steam bubbles will get bigger as the temperature rises, due to expansion. They will both release easier, due to a lower viscosity and the larger bubble size, but the really small, foam bubbles still cannot escape.

 

Air bubbles can be minimized by a sensible stirring technique. The fine bubbles that cannot escape, will have to be removed, scraped off the surface with a spoon or suitable tool. It is pointless to continue stirring, hoping the bubbles will go away, they can't, and all you are doing is forcing them down, so that they once again, have to rise to the top.

 

If the foam is bad, I suggest letting it settle at around 250F, then remove the foam and continue.

 

Dave

Edited April 17, 2016 by Vodkaman

[Frank]

Frank - I am not so sure that the bubbles caused by moisture will bubble off and be gone once you pass 212F. If the pockets of moisture are microscopic, the bubbles, though larger, may still be too small to break the surface tension of the plastic.

If the bubbles form at 212F or just higher, yes, they are moisture, and be confirmed by cooling lower than 212F when they should vanish.

This is from an engineering point of view. I will however, bow to experience.

Dave

That was the discussion I had with Jeff at Mf but unless you can see how much air is released from the plastic I use I am not sure anyone could understand it. The plastic grows at least twice it volume till the surface tension is broken and it falls. I do this all the time and never have I had moisture build up or collect anywhere. Anyone who has a chamber like mine could tell you the same thing. What I don't get is the guys getting moisture in the bags. Can't see how it gets in there. On the moisture bubble releasing, you could not tell if you have bubbles at 212 because it is still like milk then and you can't see it.

Vodkaman, you can take a gallon jug that is 100% bubble free and shake the snot out of it and get bubbles terrible. Its really no different then epoxy or silicone in that nature. If you add some moisture on purpose and try the same thing it will foam on top. This is just from my expiermentation.

I have never tried the shaking thing but I guess it could happen very easy. But I have always stirred mine just to make sure there is no settling on the bottom. If you want to test if yours settles take something and scrape the bottom of you jug and see if anything is on the bottom. All that I have used will have some sorta settling. Just make sure it mixed in every time you use it. Edited April 17, 2016 by Frank

[Vodkaman]

Thanks for the response Frank.

 

DAve

[camrynekai]

Consistency , dependability, non -yellowing,no settling w/o any bubbles and a non-sticky finished product (no matter how old the product is) determines my plastisol preferences.I've heard all the excuses why various plastisols bubble and one settles out like concrete. I have experienced the aforementioned problems over the years.Time is money in business and I adamantly refuse to babysit & deal w/ raw product annoyances before I even make the finished soft-bait products . Learning how to re-use various colored sprues / cut-offs will greatly reduce your initial plastisol price. To  each his own-peace

Ditto!