Cuttem Jack Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Im having issues with getting my ballast holes drilled dead center. I'm using a vise and a drill press with Forster bits but it seems one or more will not be dead center. I'm using a micrometer to measure each one and it seems at least one will be off. Just wondering if anyone had any tricks to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 If you are marking dead center then the issue has to be just not getting the blank secured and centered. Good lighting will help make sure you are hitting the mark. I would also make sure your forstner bit is sharp as it is important for it to be cutting good. If you are having to apply pressure with the press you may cause the blank to deflect slightly. Never had it happen on a crank but have on similar thickness stock at times. If the vise jaws don't support the crank vertically can help to make wood cauls that are tall enough. Add some recessed magnets on the backside and they will stay put on your jaws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just after I cut out the basic lure shape, I measure the center of the blank and run a compass all around the blank to establish center for all of the hardware. Run it from both sides of the bait to insure it's really on the center line. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) I agree with Travis and Bob. I will assume that you are using a awl to help you start on center. Another thing that I can think of is to take your time with this. Some times I get in a hurry and find myself not doing what I'm working on properly. Either I have to start over or just realize that I need to slow down. I have found a good speed now, but it took some time. Dale Edited April 21, 2016 by DaleSW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Man 26 Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just after I cut out the basic lure shape, I measure the center of the blank and run a compass all around the blank to establish center for all of the hardware. Run it from both sides of the bait to insure it's really on the center line. That is exactly how you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuttem Jack Posted April 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Yes a use a compass and scribe my centerline and an awl to mark my weight holes. I'm using a 1/2 forstner bit in 3/4 stock. I'm making musky lures so I have multiple ballast holes in each one. I'm sure my forstner bit is a bit dull as I've drilled hundreds of holes with it and my vise is probably not the best. I'm going to get another bit and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) I drill pilot holes in my potential ballast locations after I've cut out the lure shape, but still have flat sides. A 1/2" bit is really hard to keep centered. Have you considered more, smaller, deeper holes, to make centering easier? And a dull bit is almost impossible to keep centered, because it is hacking at against the harder material instead of cutting it. Edited April 21, 2016 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 I also make muskie lures, I always center all my blanks when they are still square top an bottom. I center all the holes and make sure that some time the wood rings have a tendency to push your punch to one side or the other, I also I keep the center line facing me when drilling the holes and I lower the bit slowly and you can easily see when the bit is to one side. As other mentioned good lighting it is a must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riverotter Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 I had the same problem. it was my drill press. there was to much play in the shaft. I could get em closer to center with a hand drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 Sometimes even sharp drill bits will grab and tear out especially in soft woods like balsa or woods that have funky grain patterns. I drill my holes by hand and have found that if you'll run the bit in reverse until you get the hole started it will stay on center and not cause tear out. Once you have the hole at least 1/16" deep you can switch the drill into forward and drill the remainder of the hole. This works well in the softer woods like balsa and paulownia which I use for bass lures. Not sure how it will work in harder woods as I haven't tried it. Ben 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted April 21, 2016 Report Share Posted April 21, 2016 This doesnt apply to wood... But for those using or thinking about using PVC, a soldering iron makes short work of ballast holes..... Or heat up a nail with a lighter for hardware holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Man 26 Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Sometimes even sharp drill bits will grab and tear out especially in soft woods like balsa or woods that have funky grain patterns. I drill my holes by hand and have found that if you'll run the bit in reverse until you get the hole started it will stay on center and not cause tear out. Once you have the hole at least 1/16" deep you can switch the drill into forward and drill the remainder of the hole. This works well in the softer woods like balsa and paulownia which I use for bass lures. Not sure how it will work in harder woods as I haven't tried it. Ben Again, that's exactly how you do it. Ben, Poplar and Pine don't seem to splinter out with a low speed setting on the drill press for me. I use my fingers to reverse drill all balsa baits as well. I still use my fingers to drill the hole for hinge wires in jointed baits, but doing so will wear your skin out quickly. The skin on my thumb will peel off in a few days if I'm doing several baits at once. I fumble the bit to much in gloves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Again, that's exactly how you do it. Ben, Poplar and Pine don't seem to splinter out with a low speed setting on the drill press for me. I use my fingers to reverse drill all balsa baits as well. I still use my fingers to drill the hole for hinge wires in jointed baits, but doing so will wear your skin out quickly. The skin on my thumb will peel off in a few days if I'm doing several baits at once. I fumble the bit to much in gloves. I figured it would probably be the same with other woods Mountain Man, but I don't like to recommend things with which I have no experience. Ben 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riverotter Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 if you got a couple hundred dollars and want a new toy buy you a metal micro mill from eBay. then you can drill centered holes all day long no problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 I have had bits wander on me and it can be very frustrating. Like others, I drill the holes when the lure still has flat sides. Also, I have started putting the bit right on the mark for the center line and applying a bit of downward pressure before turning on the drill press (I have the piece firmly in the vise at the time). This has eliminated any wandering. This also works with my forstner bits as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
