Sounder Lures Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 I have a large saltwater deep diver under construction. I don't have the side to side waggle I want. Does the downward angle of the diving lip in relation to the lure body have an impact on the side to side waggle? What else might effect that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Lip angle/size/shape all play a role as well as ballast placement. A lip with a greater angle in relation to the centerline of the bait front to back will generally create more "waggle". You talk about developing a deep diver. The drawback to the greater lip angle is that you start sacrificing depth. Lips positioned closer to the same plane as the centerline will dive deeper while lips positioned closer to vertical run shallower. You can also change the amount of side to side action by where you locate your ballast. A bait with the ballast located at the baits center of gravity will have a stronger action than one with the ballast located away from that point. This is of course the center of gravity from front to back. When you get right down to it everything about a lure plays a role in how that bait acts. Some more so than others. Below are links to a couple of threads discussing exactly what you are wanting to know. While there is no step by step list (that I know of anyway) on how to design/build a lure the info below should set you in the right direction. good luck, Ben http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31268-increasing-roll-and-swimming-action-on-prototype-shad-crank/#entry253952 http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/30530-flat-side-balsa-action/#entry247072 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 I have just recently fished with some lures that I have been working on. Doing what Ben has stated about balance, lip angle and ballast amounts I had some diving in the 30' range (lost one to). I had a few that would float just a little, a few that sank a little. The techniques that really got depth with action was, the ballast nose down and lip close to center line of the Y line. Some had a broad back and others had a slab shape look. All caught fish, but the broad back had a aggressive action that created more strikes. My lip angled from the leading edge then had secondary angle going into the lure. I found that the lures that had an heavier ballast did better, I was mainly trolling. No big fish on this trip, but I was catching fish when not many were. So the baits showed good potential. Just to boiled this all down; this is what I have learnt from these people and from doing it myself. Anything you are doing in designing a lure changes the way the lure performes. The main point to me for action is shape, all the others characteristics enhance what you are looking for. I'm now working on a few that doesn't need the depth but I'm going above the Y line. Test are positive, but until they show fish strikes consistently this doesn't mean much to me. So really I have learnt from these people's thoughts and I'm reiterating them. I'm adding a few that I have found. Hope this helped, Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sounder Lures Posted May 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Thanks for the responses. I have some other things to tweak to see if I can get the swim correct. Here is an online 3D version of the lure so you can see what I am working on. https://skfb.ly/NIWL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) I was thinking about this thread. You people who have been doing this in for awhile, please chime in if I'm wrong it can help me to. I'll call this rules to create a crank lure. Depth= A: Ballast amount and where it is located. Head down, tail down or level in the water. B: Lip/Bill associated to the Y centerline, the length and width. C: Body shape as far as the head of the lure (lipless or a modified shape). D: Ballast must add all hardware also (hooks, hangers, rings and lip). E: Tow line location, I will put this here but this can effect some of these if not all. Action= A: Shape of the lure B: Ballast can change the action C: Lip also can change action (to wide with to light ballast the lure action "blows up") Stability & Hunting= A: Ballast needs to be low as possible in the belly of the lure for stability. B: Bring the ballast up above the the Y centerline and you get a pitch and yaw. "Swag" I call it. This creates the "hunting action". As Dave and others have stated in the past. Change one of these in a significant way and you have changed the lure. That's why I keep all info and any change in information as I learn. I am really interested in all feedback, Dale Edited May 22, 2016 by DaleSW 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tendelta Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 Size of lure body, cross section as looking at it nose first, to the width of the lip appears to have a large impact. If you look at the old Rapala shad raps they had a thin nose cross section and wide lip, that did not give you much wiggle, more of a tight shake, wider cross section on newer lures have a lot more wiggle to them. Hope this helps you find your wiggler! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sounder Lures Posted May 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Thank you for all the feedback. I am working through several weight and balance options to try to get the lure to swim. This has all been very helpful. I will post again when I get it figured out! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
