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Clear Bills

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So, I'm just getting started in this and I had a quick question. I bought some baits and pained them. They actually turned out nice for my first go, I believe. My question is, how you you get clear bills? Do I just need to buy from a different source? I see there is a thread about where to buy crank baits, but who has the best? Thanks ahead of time to anyone who takes time to respond.

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You can epoxy the bills, you can dip them in auto clear, if you dip the whole bait with your clear (if you are using a moisture cure such as DN or KBS Diamond Clear) the baits will have a clear bill. I have also heard of people actually taking the time to polish the bills (similar to buffing).

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Bob, I think he's talking about lure blanks from Asia. Some come in scuffed, scratched and with excess glue from from the production process. It sucks to do a really nice paint job and have a messed up bill. I have started clear coating mine after I've epoxied the main body.

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To me, it depends on what you are using to clearcoat your baits after painting.  I like to use moisture cured urethane to coat plastic baits because it is very durable and gives you a nice "factory-fresh" finish.  You can put it on a plastic lip and it will fill in all the scratches and make it clear as glass.  I find using epoxy on plastic lips is more problematical.  It tends to look wavy and it WILL eventually yellow and make the lip pretty sorry looking, IMO.  You can't fix that once it's on there and cured hard.  If your lip is polycarbonate (Lexan), MCU will not adhere properly and it will soon begin to peel off.  But few if any plastic baits are made from Lexan, so it's not an issue for plastic crankbaits.

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I would like to ask this question here. I make mainly wooden baits now, I get what BobP has stated about plastics when I do them.

My question is, what can I use when epoxy gets on a lexan bill. I understand about MCU, but I try to buff it off and then spray the lure. Is there a better way?

Thanks,

Dale

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I thought so. I have a friend that has developed a product that is like the liquid plastic you would put on a wrench handle but much thinner. The product was developed for another application. The product goes on and dries but he believes that on lexan it will stay together and roll back as you insert the lip. This will create a dam at the lure surface where the lip comes out. The epoxy will seal there and make a better connection between the two surfaces.

It will be a barrier for paint and Turkey seal this area off also. You would just peel it of with a small knife. I'm going to see how it does and the way it reacts with lexan. If this works I'll let you know and when he will be putting it on the market. This may take some time. I'll start testing it tomorrow.

Thanks,

Dale

Edited by DaleSW
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Dale, brushing epoxy is a skill you just have to learn by doing it. I install lips with epoxy after paint and before top-coating. Fill the slot with epoxy and push in the lip. Don't put any on the lip before inserting it or it will be pushed out onto the lip as you insert it. When cured, I topcoat with epoxy and I make sure to run the brush along the lip-body margin to further seal the lip slot. Do it neatly and there's no problem.

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I just got into painting crank baits after paint Fly Poppers for the last 3 years.  I found I can get most of the lips to look good but just polishing them with my Dermal and a little polishing compound.  I wipe them down with acetone after that before I paint. 

Brad

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Ok im.missing something...I've tried acetone and it clouds the bills up more for me..I bought a bunch of foiled baits that had the masking already on them from predator bass baits. when you take the masking off part of the bill has a haze to it..I've tried alot of cleaners even acetone..nothing clears it up..just fogs it up more..only way to make them clear is by coating with devcon but that looks like crap to me..they are still sitting unpainted

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My suggestion is to contact the seller of the baits. Rather then naming him in a forum. The seller may not even know about it or can explain and help you get what you are looking for, being new to buying baits. Some plastics create a haze from density/thickness.

MO is that a haze or scratches will not discourage a fish. Normally it's a reaction from the action, body shape and color of forage fish. Many here use circuit boards of different colors. However if you are selling them, that could change.

Take care,

Dale

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Well that would be the right thing to do wouldn't it? Well I have and this post is in no way a Crack a the supplier..I've had nothing but top notch baits and service from predator. I was just just mentioning the supplier to see if anyone had found a solution to that preticular issue!

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