Bloodshot Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 This is my first post and as a 19 year old and a complete newby I want to be sure that I ruin the least amount of baits possible. If there are any steps I miss or if I don't do something correct or in the right order please let me know. 1.Carve lure out of cedar in this case a frog, with the router copy carver I just built. 2. Attach hooks (through body construction) and epoxy them in. Let dry for 1 hour. 3. Sand the lure with 800 grit sandpaper to be sure that it is as smooth and nice as possible. 4. Airbrush the lure with wicked colors and paasche brush that I just bought. Start with a white base coat. Heat set between coats and allow to dry for 10 minutes between coats. Allow to dry for 24 hours after painted. 5. Dip the lure in ac1315 with 3 light coats (last coat just a smidge thicker) heat setting in between coats and allowing 10 minutes to dry between coats. Allow 1 week to cure. 6. Attach soft plastics. Here is one of my questions some say the concrete sealant doesn't work well with soft plastics, my lures legs are made of soft plastics. Will that become a problem? Or with sufficient dry time will it be okay? 7. Then fish!!!! Sorry for the long post, I hope it's in the right spot. Let me know any problems you think I might have with this system for making lures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 The only problem I see is with painting the frog after sanding. The water in the paint will make the grain of the wood raise unless you apply a sealer/water proofer before painting. You can use the AC1315 for this purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 The AC1315 will melt if it contacts soft plastics. I get around this by coating the contact points with clear nail polish. If your legs are really flexible, you might doing what Bob suggested, sealing with the AC1315, finish painting, and then dipping once in the AC1315, followed by a full coat of clear nail polish over the entire bait. It make a really tough, clear top coat. Just be sure you work in a well ventilated area, and using a solvent-filtering respirator is always a good idea. Home Depot sells them as painter's respirators. This is what I use: http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Paint-Project-Respirator-6311PA1-A/100195886 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Don't forget to take notes of what you do. Just this weekend I was surprised by a set of "duds". who knew a "floater/diver" lipless shad bait would work so well for shallow early season pike. Now I have to remember where I had bought the split shot I had used for ballast. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Sanding around hardware can be difficult and tedious.... I try to do all my sanding first, then install hardware 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodshot Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Thanks for all the tips guys! I will try my best to apply them. Any other tips or tricks please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Everyone who builds baits has to work out a routine of steps that works for him. Some can be layed out in advance but some details come only from experience because everyone builds baits just a little differently from anyone else. You'll learn a routine for yourself as you go along. It's all part of the fun! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Step 8: Post pic in gallery Im working on a frog right now too... Among dozens of ideas i had flowing thru my head, one was similar to what youre describing..... After a failed attempt at a "hybrid design", i decided to go with a soft plastic floater....... But id still like to see what you come up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 (edited) Loading ballast and testing is part of the routine. After you find what you need then I agree with Aulrich. Take notes, you can go back and use this info again. I myself use spreadsheets on the computer. Pictures can be added in. BobP is right about sealing, with you using cedar the grains will need a little more attention from the raising. You may find yourself using a little bit heavier grit sand paper. I agree with you about allowing 24hrs to dry after painting, even with heat setting. I talked to Ben a little bit about it. I rushed to finish some lures for a trip and sealed the lures a bit to quick I think on a few. These baits had fine line cracks where the others didn't. You'll find your way like we all have, at one time or another. Enjoy, Dale Edited May 27, 2016 by DaleSW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
