Demolding The Original 3D Print

[Ts656577]

Hey y'all.  My buddy has a 3D printer and he made a for me which I will use for making a lure.  He also used high-build primer to help cover up some of the layering lines.  I didnt think much of it when I was making the mold (using Vac-50).  I put 3 coats of UMR on both sides of the frog, added the vent holes, etc.  Waited 3 hrs for each half to be cured, then went to separate them.  Part of the primer has stuck to the mold and the 3D printed part has separated.  Thats not a big deal, we've been working on some different iterations so losing the original isn't a big deal.  However, I'm having issues getting whats left of the original out.  Does anyone have any suggestions for removing what's left and the primer left on the mold?  I appreciate any and all help!

[JRammit]

If u have a piece with enough "meat" to it, drill a pilot hole and thread a screw into it... That'll give u something to grab and allow to pull straight out

If not, and u have an air compressor, try to get some air underneath it... That should loosen it up

[SlowFISH]

Not sure if Vac-50 is chemical resistant - but maybe some thinner/solvent wiped over/around the area might loosen/dissolve the paint and allow you to scrape it out without effecting the mold.  Most of the castable materials give you info on what they will take from a chemical standpoint.

 

  J.

[Ts656577]

I guess i could try the thinner or something on the outside of the mold.  No harm there.  Thanks for the thoughts.

[JRammit]

I missread.. I thought u had the master stuck in the mold.... You just need the primer out...... Maybe a heat gun??

[goldenshinner]

If your mold is silicon rubber then it will stand more heat than the printed pieces. The print lines are a bummer with 3d printing technology..

[ipt]

heat the shit out of it

[Ts656577]

I missread.. I thought u had the master stuck in the mold.... You just need the primer out...... Maybe a heat gun??

You were still correct, the master broke apart in a few places and is still stuck in the mold.  I haven't had time to try it anymore but maybe tonight or this weekend.

[SlowFISH]

You were still correct, the master broke apart in a few places and is still stuck in the mold.  I haven't had time to try it anymore but maybe tonight or this weekend.

 

Not sure what type of printer you used... but if it's an ABS (material) printer - Acetone will melt that stuff.....

 

And I'd even suggest in the future - putting some acetone on a paper towel or rag and wiping the part prior to painting it.... sort of like chemically sanding it.   Doing that will melt the surface a bit - which smooths out the build lines and starts to melt the layers together a bit - making a slightly stronger part.  On very thin items we run (.03"-.04" thick) we do this to insure they don't delaminate so easily.  

 

  J.

[Ts656577]

Not sure what type of printer you used... but if it's an ABS (material) printer - Acetone will melt that stuff.....

 

And I'd even suggest in the future - putting some acetone on a paper towel or rag and wiping the part prior to painting it.... sort of like chemically sanding it.   Doing that will melt the surface a bit - which smooths out the build lines and starts to melt the layers together a bit - making a slightly stronger part.  On very thin items we run (.03"-.04" thick) we do this to insure they don't delaminate so easily.  

 

  J.

Actually funny you say that.  My buddy told me to try that on the next one he's sending me.  So yes, the first one was ABS, and he's now sending me two more.  One is, again, ABS, and the other is PLA which i believe should be inherently smoother in comparison.