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mitcheal

Photography

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:D I'm a newbee who makes part of his income as a freelance outdoor writer and photographer and charter captain on Lake Erie. I love this website and the members seem to be extremely helpful to anyone. Let me offer a few tips on using your digital camera when photographing your baits and lures for online presentations.

1. Buy an inexpensive mini-tripod ($4.00 at Big Lots here in Michigan)

and use it to do those close-up shots. Actually, you will improve (sharpen) all your photos greatly by using a tri-pod.

2. Use natural light whenever possible. Filter daylight onto subject with some type of opaque or translucent plastic. I like the 2' x 4' plastic sheets used in recessed flourescent lights, $3 to $4 at lumber or hardware store. Any material that will let the light through yet diffuse it will work. Side lighting is easiest, but always look for shadows and move subject accordingly.

3. Put your flash away or turn it off unless you are outside in direct sunlight, then use it to remove shadows. If you can't turn it off , cover it with something that will diffuse the light, like a piece of plastic milk jug.

4. Shoot lots of photos, especially with digital cameras. Most pro's hope for one good shot for every 30 or 40 taken.

5. A photo of your lure should be done on a mini scene. Use a contrasting background. Darker backround for colorful lures, light backround for natural finishes. Don't bury your subject in a camo backround. Wallpaper, material and carpetting scraps all make interesting mini backgrounds for lures at little or no cost or print one of the many backrounds that come on the Windows program. Paste the copy to a piece of stiff paper or cardboard, I use foamboard. GLOW paints photograph very poorly except in natural light with proper backround. Polaroid lense filters also help deal with the "glare" problem. After all, you wouldn't go fishing without your polaroids during daylight.

Lake Erie, Walleye Heaven

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Small size, a very positive aspect of most digital cameras is also the photographers worst enemy. These lightweight, compact cameras are really sensitive to human hand movement. The act of just pushing the shutter causes movement and loss of sharpness in the photo. Not only do you need to rest or secure the camera well but use the timer instead of pressing the shutter release by hand. This will eliminate about 70% of the fuzzy close-up problems I see in many of the posted photos.

From the shores of mighty Lake Erie.

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Macro lens are the way to go for close-ups, but like everything else, you get what you pay for, especially if you are looking for one under F2.8. Quality glass for a 35mm SLR runs over $350 for starters. I have seen cheap lenses for small digitals, but those are add-ons, not really true macros. You have no depth of field with them and generally only get a part of the lure in focus. Some larger 35 mm lenses like 200mm to 400 mm have macro capabilities but agin their depth of field isn't what a true macro is. With 35 mm SLR people often go for name cameras but cut back on the price of their lenses. It should be the opposite, the lens makes the difference.

If you have a lot of photos to do, check around and try to either rent a macro lens or even rent a complete top of the line digital camera and macro lens. Like carving fishing lures, the photo stuff is a whole nother venue and gets very complicated and expensive.

When I get time, I will shoot some of the plugs I hae painted and try to show the differences in lighting, backround, lens, etc. If you can't wait, there are hundreds of websites out there to help folks with photography. Better yet, take a class in photography at your local college or high school.

mitcheal

From The Banks Of The Mighty Detroit River

Take A Grandchild Fishing Today

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