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Chrome Paint

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Your best bet is to go with aluminum foil tape. Slap the tape on then burnish it well and the seams will disappear. You can do some minor polishing afterwards if needed.  Several posts on its use over the years.

 

Most all paints, readily available, will turn a lovely dull silver color once top coated.   

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Travis is correct, but I have found by shooting a gloss black then misting with pearl white that you can get a better faux chrome affect than you can get with any of the "metallic"  paints, just keep misting with the pearl white until you get the tone you want, but the foil is the best, just more work involved than shooting paint, good luck and I hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

David J  

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I agree with Travis. While a few guys have tried chrome paint, the good stuff is very expensive and has to be used with a particular topcoat that may not be dirable enough for a crankbait. I use aluminum foil tape, as thin as I can find. It is easy to texture like fish scales, is durable, and looks realistic. You can also try gluing mylar foil to the bait if you want a REALLY reflectine surface but it's a pretty fussy process to glue foil on a bait without making a big mess. I stick with tape.

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I agree with all above - two of the biggest challenges with paint is that your surface has to be PERFECTLY smooth - and I mean like glass perfect - using 2000 grit sandpaper... any distortion and the "texture" breaks the chrome surface up - making it look silver instead of chrome.... and the second - is that most of these surfaces have to be immediately covered with a clear topcoat - as the second you touch it - you've dulled it and there is no polish/cleaner that will fix it - it's done... plus this stuff is very fragile - almost like a very thin film instead of a paint.

 

The best chrome paint I've seen on a hobby level was the Spaz Stix stuff... but it is intended for you to spray it on the inside/back of a clear plastic then back coat with white/black/etc. which is why it works well... when you try reversing that process is when the problems start.

 

Foils/tapes/etc are the only ways I've found to get a chrome finish - otherwise I spray a cretex silver and go on from there.

 

  J.

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Now I was going to try the kitchen foil method on my next batch of lipless I am doing. The appeal being I could embed the foil in the second water proofing layer of epoxy. I have done foil tape and it's easy I am hoping to get finer texturing with the kitchen foil.

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@ Aulrich

I'm very interested in foil as a cover over baits. I have been thinking of some brands being much thinner then other brands. As I thought about using foil I was wondering which would be the best, the thinner or more what my better half likes in the kitchen (heavier/thicker). I was thinking that when you burnish the thinner foil it may tear. This is one of my future projects.

I have done a lot of painting but never tried this. Just never wanted to until lately.

Please keep me/us informed.

Thanks,

Dale

Edit; I'm like you, I believe that this technique can give you some extra....or maybe not.

Edited by DaleSW
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Thing with kitchen foil, if you even breathe on it, it crinkles up (exaggeration)

I got a nice scale pattern in mine by pressing it onto the netting of my tackle bag side pouch... But by the time i got it on the bait, most of the scales dissapeared in the crinkles

Just bought a roll of foil tape.. Havnt even opened it yet.. But i will soon

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Putting scales on foiled baits has had a few posts over the years.  I typically  use a light spray of 3M adhesive and then put tule on the bait then foil over it.  You can also use a file and press the foil onto a file or roll a ratchet handle to get the scale effect.  Can also press the scale design in the bait easily in softer lures.

 

DSC_0122.jpg

Edited by Travis
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Sticky tape works great on flatter lures. For curvier baits I use hd household aluminum foil. Try wrapping the foil in scale netting, thule, or some mesh fabric. A hexagonal fine mesh give a finish like a hammered spoon. Put the foil over that and use craft foam to imbed the pattern while it is on the lure. Remember that the more you handle the foil, the duller it gets, I always use 30 min epoxy to apply it to the lure. Any other adhesive has bubbled up when heat setting paint or even slid underneath on finished lures. Oh, if your breath crinkles aluminum foil, consider a breath mint. :?

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The best metallic silver and gold paint I have found - other than spaz stix - is rustoleum 2x ultra coverage. It can be decanted into an airbrush cup (using a 1/2 to 3/4" straw taped to the nozzle) and cleaned with laquer thinner. It adheres to plastic, is inexpensive, and readily available in wall mart and hardware stores. It does not give you a chrome finish. But when applied with an airbrush it is pretty good. Createx wicked metallic gold is excellent as well. 

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Your best bet is to go with aluminum foil tape. Slap the tape on then burnish it well and the seams will disappear. You can do some minor polishing afterwards if needed.  Several posts on its use over the years.

 

Most all paints, readily available, will turn a lovely dull silver color once top coated.   

Let it fully cure for 24-48 hours. Then a thin coat or two of createx transparent base helps prevents dulling. Once topcoated it shines pretty good.

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I don't have a lot to do so I started searching in the archives and found some innovative people with foil and painting them. One has a very interesting sight names, right Hazmail. This have gave me a reason for ordering some candy color paints and searching for cigarette packing or whatever. B)

Dale

Edited by DaleSW
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