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lakertaker

Diver Vibe 80

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The river 2 sea diver vibe 80 is no longer made and impossible to get any more.. best lake trout jigging lure ever.... If any of you old hands at lure making can look up a pic of one (pics are readily available online) what would your best guesses be as what I could use to make a snap/line attach to? Hook eyes were not used on this lure. What would you all use to achieve the weight the original had? Lead suspended within???

Thanks in advance.....

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Going to be a tough one without a bait or two in your hands.   The snap/line attachment appears to be metal (inset in the plastic body/dorsal fin on photos of clearer baits).   You could try just putting multiple line ties at the correct locations but I would rather have them molded into a bait.   I never have fished one so not for sure by weighting but if similar to other style baits it seams packed near nose of bait or along center line right in front of middle hook.   Getting the side profile no issue at all based on photos but contour of body going to be a little more difficult without a bait if you go carving a master.

 

If I were really set on getting them I would want one or better yet two in hand. Making a mold with similar style line attachment and weighting.  One bait would be lost in the process as it would be dissected.  Even after all this may take some time to get it dialed in.  Going to have to just reverse engineer the bait and still may end up with something very close but not like the original. 

Edited by Travis
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I would look at making a silicone mold of a similar sized rattle trap/type bait, then use a Silver Buddy style bait that fits inside as an insert, and pour some really hard plastisol around it.  The metal insert would take all the stress, so the plastisol should hold up to a day's fishing.  Since you would have a mold, you could just repour your bait if/when it gets torn up.

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It looks like a fairly standard lipless shad, though it may be optimized for vertical jigging, since the line ties seem a touch back when compared to a typical casting lipless.

So what attributes made it a great jigging lure. how fast did it sink, did it sink nose down , Rattle?.

I have been playing lots with laminated balsa lipless lately, that method should be able to clone the performance pretty easily.

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I have about ten remaining but lose about two per summer due to snagging in rocks (part of the Laker game). I'm getting paranoid as I have only a few left. The ghost color out proroduces most other colors. Though perch is a close second. It sinks like a rock and vibrates in a wonderful fashion when pulled. The smaller version is still made (65) and on the ghost color is somewhat transparent. These baits so closely imitate the lake trout natural baiitfish prey I think they can't resist... nourishes white jigs hands down.

I can make a mold but am new to this lure making game so desired advice...

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Divervibe90

So I have been thinking about this Here is the first try, but I did mess up the size since it's 90mm

 

The circles are where I would start with ballast it's a similar size to a bait I make it has 3 000 buckshot for ballast.

 

Bend up wire to match the hook hangers and tow points and sandwich between two layers of 1/4" balsa.

 

The top profile can be a slightly weight forward torpedo, but I would taper fairly quickly after the ballast.

 

Keep the bit on top in front of the line tie basically flat. but round off everything else.

 

Now the promo text say that it's claim to fame is that there is no rattle.  and this one as it sits there is none. but cut a chamber and add a BB you can add one and it will sound different than a typical plastic lipless.

 

On youtube look up the channel "the handmade Fisherman" watch the phox minnow set of videos it show the basic process of making a laminated lure body.

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So  have to admit, I saw the shape and said to myself that I had to have one, the trout like profile has some use around here. So this is the first, I should not have rounded over the face so much. I do have a thought on replicating the fin, but I kept it to the formula for this try.

 

Laker90Build1

Edited by aulrich
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Oh my gosh.... you guys are serious about this around here -nice! I'm a serious fishing guy, have done some outdoor writing, a lot of guiding, seminars, etc and always enjoy witnessing passion for breaking things down like this and focusing on the little idiosyncrasies in baits, etc.... this is good stuff!

Later taker

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I never have fished one

first off, you get points for the first lure mentioned here that Travis doesnt have stashed away somewhere (ha ha ha!)

second, im jealous!.. ive only had the chance to catch lake trout once.. the ones we caught were tiny compared to their potential (15"-18"), but still little power houses!.... someting about hoisting solid muscle up from 50+ ft deep got me hooked! and i never caught any again

now the lure.... aulrich has a beautiful wood copy, that is a legit way to go.... but since you mentioned losing so many in the rocks (we lost our share of gear that day too, no rocks no lake trout)... id look into molding

sure shot way, take one you have left and mold it in silicone... then you have an exact copy of the body

the line tie could probably be done with lexan, and the hangers would need to be formed into a wire harness

for ballast, you could try crimping lead split shot onto the wire harness

also as mentioned above, Paul Adams (handmade fisherman) has some great videos on all these methods

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Cycle time is not to bad at least to the roughed in body stage, I could come close to molding if de-molding time is 15 min or so.

 

Going to depend on the mold material but I used to easily mold/demold 9 baits in that time.  Also those had the line, hook, and internal weighting all done at the same time along with details and eye sockets also molded in.   

 

I consider myself fair with the knife and tools (bandsaw, jointer, drill press, etc...) and can comfortably say I wouldn't even come close to trying to match the production in the same time and in no way would be as consistent.  Add actual details to the bait and it gets even worse.

Edited by Travis
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This topic just had me curious, but would lexan even hold up as a line tie? Also, you could probably make metal inserts like that of an actual blade bait and add the lead on the bottom, if it was just going in the mold. Have you cracked one open to see the internals? If you are going to mold one, mold it and then cut the lure with a dremel tool. You will learn a lot about lead placement, plus you could get exact weights or take measurements and adjust them to fit that of your solid resin version. This really had me curious, it's not too often we hear about lipless crankbaits. Good luck!

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I'm going to sacrifice the smaller version which is still available and cut with a dremmel - great idea - thanks. I release most of my catches but when I do fillet lakers I am amazed to compare their ghost pattern to the natural prey - the Cisco/tulibee. Perch, too. It is darn near identical. I've decided I'm going to use a metal line tie...

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Ok. The ghost pattern is translucent - transparent. When held up to light it is clear... On alrich`s pic I'll describe how they built it on a frame of a single insert, starting from the line tie... The frame is made of metal about the thickness of a spinnerbait blade. Two options for the tie (i use a snap here to avoid line stress on this metal) extend towards the nose of the bait down an "arm" that runs just under the surface of the bait. At this point the arm joins to the area of the frame where the lead is poured around - a single chunk of lead poured in the shaped of a minnow`s innards - adding to the realistic appearance of the bait in the ghost color scheme. At the base of the lead extends a hook hanger. From there, another arm continues back, just under the surface (via the belly and anal region of the bait) to the tail, where the final hook hanger is located. Again, the frame is all built on a stamped insert, it appears. I'll probably have to use a wire insert. Otherwise I think I can reproduce this with all your help - thanks!

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Almost like they have cut away some of the silver buddy - yes. The weight portion looks the same. The arms I described to the rear hook hanger and up to the line ties (from the weight) are no more than 1/16th" in depth. I may just try sonar or silver buddy inside - good observation.

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