Small Swimbait Design

[SW Lures]

The ones that I have done, I use the flatter head area to Chuck. It helps drive the bait down which seems to allow shortening the lip.

I'm finished with the ones that I have been working on. Now I'll start on this type. This type seems interesting to make.

This is funny..... when I started (a year ago) carving baits I was only going to design a few and then stop. Keeping all the info and make these when I wanted one or two. Now designing has consumed a lot of my spare time. Wondering if I could do a design or a friend ask me to do one. At this one year point in time I have made 78 baits. This is not counting designing, testing, etc and making other types of baits. "A few" in a year's time has grown to a bakers dozen and growing. The info that I have, I put in spreadsheets thank goodness for computers unlike the old days.

Dale

ps, And holding down my day (24/7) job. Gezzz

Edited August 23, 2016 by DaleSW

[JRammit]

I have a 3-1/2" crappie that has terrific action and starts right away. When I designed it I had no idea about proportions on a swimbait. When measured front to back the ratio is .154 : 1 : 1 : 1.54. I moved the attachment points up on the forehead. Now the flat top acts like a lip and gets the action going. You might want to try that next.

That might fix my roll problem too

What's the thickness on your crappie?

[Chuck Young]

The wood was cut to 5/8". But with face prosthetics and epoxy, it is a little more. That thickness runs pretty much the whole length of the first section. There is just a slight taper by the lips. I guess that makes it a hybrid between lipless and swimbait. All I know is it works really well!

[JRammit]

My PVC trim is 5/8", I thought I was starting too thick... The thinner 3/8" prototype looked better... I was thinking of splitting the difference and going 1/2" on the next one

Another question, the "female" end of the joints.. What's an average depth and what do you use to clean it up?.... i used a dremel drum on the 5/8" bait, but learned it's too big for the 3/8" bait, so I used a nail file

[mark poulson]

I think trying to use a power tool to clean up the inner faces of swimbait joints is like trying to drive a brad with a sledge hammer.

At the risk of sounding old, which I am, one of the beauties of PVC is how easily it sands by hand.

Take a thin piece of wood, or a flat file, fold a piece of 80 grit around it, and have at it.  Move up to 100, or 120, and you're done!

[Chuck Young]

I work it with the tip of an exacto knife, bend it, work a small drop of oil on it. Avoidance is the key. My joints are thru wired - I can't even begin to explain them to you. 

[jrhopkins]

here's some pics of a small bait in progress. total length is 3".  the first segment is 1 1/2". the following segments are aprox. 3/4" each so that would be a 2.1.1 ratio ( I think  ).

notice that the line tie is slightly above the center line of the bait. haven't filled in the ballast pockets yet so you can see approx. how I do that. keeping the ballast as low in the bait I think helps eliminate side roll and flat sides helps too. I generally don't get side roll in my baits.

test swam this and most of the swim action is in the second and third segments. once it is finished with the fin work and tail fin it should have a nice quick swimming action on a moderate or fast retrieve.

i'll try to get a swim video when it is done if my tank will still hold water

 

[SW Lures]

Jr, that's interesting how you laid the ballast over, running nose to tail on the front section.

Dale

[Chuck Young]

Do you carve, sand, or burn the gill detail?

[Travis]

Do you carve, sand, or burn the gill detail?

 

I would imagine carving (whether hand or power) was used and final sanding.   It  would appear that layout lines on the operculum and the operular flap likely indicate carved along with the photo showing the underside of the operculum (angled nature/point usually sign of knife work).  Based on the bait and the gray tones are usually signs of pencil lead being transferred from the hand/sanding process (same happens on wooden baits or carvings).    A power carver and bits could also be used but one can see grit marks that indicate it was coarse sandpaper (or fine rasp, file) based on the length of the swipe.

Edited August 26, 2016 by Travis

[SW Lures]

The carving reminds me of Solarbaits. I believe in time, I will be heading in that direction. If so I need to learn about molds and pouring.

I just like that type of design.

Dale

[jrhopkins]

Do you carve, sand, or burn the gill detail?

you talking to me?

[Chuck Young]

Yes, Mr. Hopkins. And that was a great Robert Deniro impression!

[jrhopkins]

everything hand carved and then sanded with 80 grit prior to primer fror painting. here are the 3 ready for paint and then finishing. after doing a couple hundred bluegill I can pretty much freehand everything. now I just have to decide what bluegill patterns to do. maybe do one as a crappie?

 

 

[Chuck Young]

Nice!