fshng2 Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Finally got around to using some old corks I found at a flea market last year. Tools: Hacksaw, scapel (safety razor blades work too), sand paper 200 grit, latex gloves. First I prime with 2 coats of exterior gloss white and let set for a day. I used markers and then blended colors for the desired effect. (Blending is achieved by quickly rubbing with a tissue that is slightly dampened with denatured alcohol. If you are unhappy with the first results a clean alcohol dampened tissue can completely remove all marker.) For the final top coat I used solarez, the thin version. Lastly, hit with a UV light for a few minutes, then put in the sun to fully cure for a non tacky finish. (A thin application of long curing epoxies also work well for top coat.) The first one floats half submerged, and the second one is 2/3 submerged. I'll let the fish decide which is better Edited August 12, 2016 by fshng2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braided Line Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) As far as free corks goes. Mondays is trash day in my neighborhood. Recycle containers usually have plenty of wine bottles in them with corks. Nice and clean. As I`m walking my dog. I just grab the available corks and deposit them in a container in my work area. I`ve had to stop as my "supply" is more than enough. With an excess of corks you can experiment in making things. Some things work out while other "ideas" just hit the floor. Plus I`v crushed/powdered some to fill in areas on some rod handles. Other stuff included in the mix as well. Edited August 16, 2016 by Braided Line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Ben Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Would it be possible to have you demonstrate the basic assembly of this fine specimen for this noob? It looks rather simple or basic but since I'm new to tying I'm asking noob questions. I'm really liking the top one. I've got a whole coffee can full of these wine corks ready. Just point the way! ;-) Edited August 17, 2016 by Mr Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrecord Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Ahhh the cork oak from the Mediterranean area of Portugal and Southern France. For hundreds of years cork stoppers have been used to seal wine and other alcoholic drinks in bottles and barrels. Cork quality is visually determined. The outer observance of pits, infractions, non-circular shapes and the variety of visual imperfections, or not, determines cork grade. On 'select" grade cork, without any (or many) visual imperfections, the interior may be loaded with lentricels, similar to crevasses in glaciers, and what I call pointed burrs or hard enclosed knots. Since I drill three leg holes in all my top water popping bugs, I worry about hidden, internal gotchas. The pointed burrs or knots cause nearly all drill press drill bits to "walk" A leg hole through a bug eye is not appetizing. Pulling rubber legs through lentricels often causes a snag to compress then break off the rubber leg.. The world wide exploitation of cork has caused the quality to fall in the last few decades. No doubt what used to be a XX Laboratory grade cork is now a Select grade and previous discards have moved up to the ugly, broken XXXX so called Laboratory corks of today. Ground, glued, compressed cork, called agglomerated cork is used in wine bottles but makes a lousy popping bug bug because of all the extra weight. Other suppliers fill wine cork visual imperfections with adhesive and cork dust but this also increases weight but not as much as the agglomerated approach. I've found that either new, unused, high quality, "pricey" wine corks or discarded corks from wine in the $30-$40 range and up that were not opened with a cork screw are the best today. I go into making popping bugs from wine corks in my book, "Big Bass Fly Fishing on Topwater A Field Guide" which you can find on my web site, www.bigbassflyfishing.com/ Under BUGS, I have 22 patterns in three sizes I made from cork stoppers. I'm in the process of loading some of my unique fly tying tools and fly fishing accessories for Big Bass anglers. Working cork is a challenge, I never know where the bit or saw or sander is going. It's much like landing a Big Bass LOL! Good Luck. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrecord Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Bob thank you for the kind words about my book. It's selling quite well, especially to Bass Fly Tournament guys who keep saying, "Don't sell it to my competitors!" LOL And with 149 Big Bass tips and 84 Big Bass family secrets, my son Lance said I omitted his two favorites - the ones that "always" work. He means my Lindsey Ozark Bumble Bee pattern number 19. There two ways to fish it - IGFA Compliant and NOT IGFA Compliant. Both ways start the same: Cast with the wind up next to flowering, floating material like water lilies. Keep tight line, leader and tippet. The IGFA Compliant method is to rap your knuckles on your fly rod just above your reel. This vibration often triggers a strike. The IGFA NON Compliant method is to turn on your cordless tooth brush and grasp it against your fly rod just above your reel. My up sized Ozark Bumble Bee with a tooth brush vibration works when nothing else does. I'm not a BASS tournament guy so I don't know if it's legal there but you would know. Thanks again. I'll PM you. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrecord Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Bob, I'm sorry but I repeated the toothbrush secret that was on page 118 of my Field Guide and on my website. I don't know where my head was. Maybe I was recalling his advice from a prior edition. Memo to self: Do not post on TU after midnight LOL. Good Luck! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
