Eyectcher Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Hi gentlemen I have a question I hope some can help me with Ive ordered all the components to start pouring crankbaits so basically when it arrives this comeing weeks I'm going to be pouring some silicon milfs of done crsnkbaits I have that work well for me and I'm going to use them to make the divine moulds the issue I've been thinking about is the front lip they are sieving plugs with a large lip can I make the moulds with the lip on and pour them with lip on so I have the lip already done so it would save me time and get the lip just right or should I cut the lip off and put one on after it's been poured guys any help and advise would be greatly appreciated Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I have done it both ways but typically end up putting the lip in later after I paint the bait. I just mold the lip slot into the bait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Agree w Travis.... If you can cut the lip slot out before molding the bait, I'd do it that way..... If not, leave the lip in.. It's difficult to cut a square slot in a round body, so you don't wanna have to do that on every bait Also I like painting before installing the lip... No masking required, and just looks cleaner to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 id like to see your molds and injectors....interesting!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyectcher Posted August 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Hey guys this is my first time doing it I will try both ways and I will defiantly post pics I was hopeing to get away with pouring the lip in with the rest of the bait so it comes out right ever time but I also never thought about cutting a lip slot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 If you mold the lip slot in the bait it will come out right every time also. I like it because I can store the blanks easier, not worry about masking bills, etc.... I also felt I got a much more secured lip gluing than drilling holes in the lip and having the casting medium expand through the lip to lock it in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Nice work Travis. Great job on the mold. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBBill64 Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 I'm looking to duplicate the old Arbogast Bug Eye crankbait. The diving lip on this lure is at zero degrees at the point of attachment to the body, then bends down at about 45 degrees. It looks like a one piece mold would be the easiest way to generate this configuration. However, I'm new to this and wonder if the Alumilite resin with microballoons that I plan to use will generate a sufficiently strong lip and joint. What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 I wouldn't want to mold a lip as just don' think it would hold up for long. If open water then not as worrisome but I would think a lip would hold up very long. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 If using resin, one piece molds are not an option.. Resin expands as it hardens... enclosed in a 2 piece mold, the expansion is forced up the sprue hole... But if left open, you would just have a blob of hard plastic to try and trim off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eyectcher Posted August 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Travis nice job Travis I was just wanting to pour the crankbaits all in One with the lip in as 99 percent of my fishing is trolling and if I'm trolling Let's say four lines even keeping them on planer boards they will eventually cross each Other and make a mess I have some proven Crankbaits that track great they hardly if Any need tuning that's shy I thought I could pour Them all at once also while writing this I have thought I finish my baits with two coats of devcon 2 ton epoxy I am going to try to pour one and just give it a Couple coats of epoxy and see how strong they come I have to say I have had many rapala lips break of in the painting stage So I think it may work if it doesn't I may need some help guys in cutting Slots for lips guys thank you all for your input I will let everone know how it goes thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 I haven't poured any baits yet, but I do a lot of trolling in the spring. There is much more stress on baits while trolling. I'm just putting it out there. The next topic that I wanted to put out is you may want to create a prototype and make a mold, for the lip issue Eyectcher. I'm getting interested in the pouring of blanks. The reason is to be more consistent in the baits. I'm also carving more then painting. I enjoy carving but I really enjoy painting. I need to look into this and some prices, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 One thing to consider is when making a mold with the slot for the lip, is that you can't change the angle, I would wait till you are really sure that is the angle you want on the lure, then go ahead and try it but for myself I cut the slot after the lure is done, that way I can have more control of the depth of the lure with one mold. Wayne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 I'm not trying to have harsh debate but a discussion. I am looking into start pouring, so this question can help me. Excluding top water and deep divers, we as fisherman and bait designers (different levels) fish primarily in water of 5'-10', 10'-15', 15'-20'. Assuming this is a true statement then you need to design a bait that you like to work in each level or just one or two of these areas. This would include a lip angle for this depth. I have a dozen designs that I have created. Some may work better in shallower water and some work better in deeper. I would make a mold with the lip angle that would give me the best results and I would not have to cut them in after the pour. The ballast is just something you would have to deal with in a shaped bait. When I first started I built a jig to make cuts for lips in the baits after shaping, it did ok but sometimes I had a slip. This is not fun after taking so much time in the carving of the bait. Knowing the extreme importance of a square lip to the bait I started cutting them in with the wood being square in it corners. Drilling the ballast in at this time to. Thanks to some people here. My question is why wouldn't you do this at this point? The ballast is just something you will have to deal with the drilling, unless there's a technique for it. If I had three baits in the 5-10' depths then there are three there and maybe a few in each other depth. So I have about 9 molds. A person doing this for some sometime like Travis, that's a easy amount. Now he does not need to worry about fittings a lip. As I stated just trying to learn, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 One thing to consider is when making a mold with the slot for the lip, is that you can't change the angle, I would wait till you are really sure that is the angle you want on the lure, then go ahead and try it but for myself I cut the slot after the lure is done, that way I can have more control of the depth of the lure with one mold. Wayne Very good point. All that however should be worked out in the prototype bait prior to molding so no surprises. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 With hand carved bodies, making a jig is problematic because every lure body is a slightly different size and shape. BUT, with molded bodies, every lure body is identical, and a whole new world of jig making is opened up. The jig can be made of Bondo, molded to the lure body. The drilling operations and slot cutting operation is faster than the time taken to write this one line of text. The molded jig blocks can be adjusted for square-ness by grinding on a belt sander. The rest is about building guide blocks for use on the drill press table and the band-saw table. The adjustable lip is achieved on the guide block. The same guide block jig can be used with different lures. Here is a link to my original post. Sorry, cannot find the pics. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 baits look nice travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
