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Cylinder Shape Sinker?

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Thank you 21xdc! I probably not correctly asking.

I am looking for sinker with shape like a pencil without graphite inside for IN-LINE spinner. Such shape gave me possibility to wrap it by adhesive tape different colors and change tape without destroying a spinner.   

Couldn't find. TA 

Edited by ING
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Personally I would buy the finesse dropshot mold, Use a stainless steel wire that would go from the bottom of the mold (at swivel end) going up into the sprue a little... Pour and then pull the wire out. Break off the sprue and you should have what you want. You would need to make sure that the wire was in the center of the pour hole first. This is a better option than making a rubber mold in my mind.

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This is the Mold and everything else you would need.

www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Salmon-Trout-In-line-Spinners/

www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Specialty-Lure-Molds/Lure-Body-Mold-LB-5-A.html

 

 

You must not have read the OP first post...  He wants 1/2oz to 7/8oz. 

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21xdc I did miss the weight part.

So much for speed reading.

Well the next ones are close to weights but albeit not pencil shaped will make spinners. If these will not do the only option is for a custom mold.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Weight-Forward-Spinner-Molds-P293C58.aspx

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Weight-Forward-Spinner-Molds-P294C58.aspx

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Thank you 21xdc! I probably not correctly asking.

I am looking for sinker with shape like a pencil without graphite inside for IN-LINE spinner. Such shape gave me possibility to wrap it by adhesive tape different colors and change tape without destroying a spinner.   

Couldn't find. TA 

 

 

21xdc I did miss the weight part.

So much for speed reading.

Well the next ones are close to weights but albeit not pencil shaped will make spinners. If these will not do the only option is for a custom mold.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Weight-Forward-Spinner-Molds-P293C58.aspx

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Weight-Forward-Spinner-Molds-P294C58.aspx

 

 

Google bullet weights. I have used them for inline spinners to, can get them at a lot of places.

 

 

Nobody must read the posts and replies.....

 

OP needs/wants a cylinder style as he wraps the lead with tape for colors.....

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Nobody must read the posts and replies.....

 

OP needs/wants a cylinder style as he wraps the lead with tape for colors.....

If you will notice I was offering options to a cylinder shape.

I also stated "If these will not do, the only option is for a custom mold."

Why a custom mold, becausea nothing in that size exists!

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You can make your own mold to pour these weights fairly easy. All you will need is 2 short pieces of angle iron and a drill press.

 

You will need to clamp the 2 pieces of angle iron together back to back. Then drill a hole the size of the wire that will run through the center of the weight. This wire will need to be a wee bit larger than the wire you will be using to build the lure for obvious reasons. Without moving the angle iron now drill a hole in the same place as the previous hole you just drilled. You will need to drill this hole shallower than the first hole so you have a place to hold the wire centered.

 

By drilling a shallower second hole you will have a place to fit a straight piece of wire in the mold that will run up through the larger hole. The wire you use will need to be straight and smooth to make removing it from the lead easier after the weight is poured. The wire should be removed while the lead is still fairly hot. This will also make removing it easier.

 

This will give you a weight like the old Mojo weights.

 

Ben

 

 

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

mojo weight.jpg

post-21848-0-30629000-1473032782_thumb.jpg

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Thank  you Mark! Looks like it could work. 1” of ¼” diameter lead wire, according my calculation, should weight approximately 0.53 oz and I could adjust the weight by changing length. I've already ordered it.

TA

 

Thanks everybody! I've got a lot of useful ideas!

 

Edited by ING
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The 2 pieces of angle iron ARE the mold ING.  They need to be clamped together and then the hole is drilled where they meet. That way when the clamps are removed and the 2 pieces separated there will be one half of the drilled hole on each piece of angle iron.

 

Below is a crude drawing of what I'm talking about.

 

Ben

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

Angle Iron Mold.jpg

post-21848-0-69258100-1473150187_thumb.jpg

Edited by RayburnGuy
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Thank you, Ben! I’ve got it. So I have to pour the lead from the top through narrow space near central wire and retain that wire by pliers to prevent it’s shifting.

Mold has been somehow heated to prevent clogging of inlet when I start pouring.

I’m right?

Edited by ING
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The hole you pour through will be the same size as the body of the lure your making. The small hole at the bottom of the larger hole will be to hold your wire. If your wire is stiff, straight and the bottom hole is sized correctly to match the size wire your using it should hold the wire without any further help.

 

Below is a drawing of what the hole should look like. The larger portion of the hole will be at the top of the angle iron. This is where the lead will be poured. The smaller hole at the bottom is where the wire will fit.

 

By clamping the two angle irons back to back, and drilling where the two meet, you should end up with one half of the cavity in each piece of angle iron.

 

Ben

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

Mold Cavity.jpg

post-21848-0-00790900-1473404672_thumb.jpg

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Thank you again!

I completely got the idea.

I have not too much experience in the working with lead and molds – only made big size sinkers. Could small size of inlets (diameter 1/4", length 1.5-2") create problems?

I mean that lead could harden before penetrating all way down and clogged the inlet?

May be has a sense to create channels from top to sides and made double sinkers?

 

 

Edited by ING
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Best advice I can give you is to try it and see how it works. If you have trouble getting the lead to flow all the way to the bottom then you can try pouring the lead at a hotter temp and heating up the angle iron with a torch before pouring. Unless your pouring really long bodies I don't believe you'll have much trouble.

 

good luck, 

 

Ben

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