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reallison

Help Removing Epoxy Clear Coat From Hook Holders?

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Well, I paint over the hook hangers with epoxy so there will be a guarantee that no water will leak into that area. When the epoxy has cured hard, I use a Dremel tool with a micro drill bit to zip the epoxy off the hangers. A straight piece of stainless steel wire will work almost as well. It takes barely a minute to do the job with the Dremel tool. I usually have acrylic paint on the hangers too and the Dremel removes that as well. The added benefit is that I don't need to worry about getting epoxy on the hangers while applying it.

Edited by BobP
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I'm with Bob about covering the hangers when applying top coat. By doing so you are assured the entire surface of the lure is covered and that there is no chance of water getting to the body of your bait. And like he said, it only takes a minute or so to remove the top coat from the hook hangers.

 

Ben

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I was speaking specifically about wood lures which are about the only ones I make. But I do the same thing with plastic lures too. Not that I try to get hangers covered by lots of epoxy - I just brush it on paying attention to 100 % coverage and getting an even coat without worrying about the hangers. A Dremel is a very exact tool with a micro drill bit. I use one that's 1 to 1 1/2 mm diameter. First drill out the center of the hanger and then run it around the outer edge. It easily removes both the epoxy and the paint and allows you to do a neat job. If you don't remove it, the split rings tend to wear it away leaving a ragged looking hanger which can inhibit the freedom of the trebles and the line tie, making for poorer performance.

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Also find split ring pliers useful, however to get a nice clean look you can add screw eyes last . Drill hole slightly bigger and epoxy in, epoxy will seal bait no problem. You can also add hardware before final topcoat to get best of both options. Obviously doesnt apply if using blank with hardware fitted or thru- wired.

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I didn't state this in my last post, I really take care with the tow eye. I have friends that like to tie straight to the eye. If I feel that I have made a burr on the eye I put a split ring on the eye. Usually they have no issues with that and have asked for them. They say it gives the bait better action.

Dale

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When applying topcoat, I first do inside the attachment points. Then the rest of the lure gets a smooth coat, avoiding these points. There is usually very little clean up. Even if do plug up an eye, It is not too thick and is easily removed with a fresh exacto knife. If you do it after you can handle the lure without leaving prints, but before it fully cures, it cuts easily. First I plunge cut next to the body so no epoxy gets pulled out of any holes. Next I cut around the base of the hangers. Then the rest of the hanger gets cleaned from the sides. the rest pops off with no buffing needed. It sounds like more work than it is. 

 

If using epoxy, you may want to thin out your epoxy with denatured alcohol.

If you are dipping your lures, dabs with a paper towel will get rid of most of that mess. 

Edited by Chuck Young
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I use a toothpick, too, to clean out the hook hanger holes before I put my Solarez-dipped baits into the UV light box.  If it does get into the tail hook hanger, I drill it out carefully, and use a sharp exacto knife to finish cleaning it up, just like Chuck Young.  Go slow, and use the exacto to cut the finish all around the base of the hook hanger before you begin to remove the rest of the top coat.  Patience is key.  You don't want to hurry, and ruin all your hard work on the bait by chipping the paint while you're trying to clean it up.

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