DingerBaits Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Taking a leap of faith and looking into doing some Balsa work. What is the best method to seal the balsa? I know that in previous attempts the balsa becomes a little "furry" even after sanding it smooth just do to Balsa's grain tendency to absorb most everything. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 My personal preference is to first give it a coat of "runny" super glue and allow the lure blank to soak up whatever it will. This gives it a hard shell that is sanded smooth after the glue dries. After adding all the hardware along with the diving lip I then give it a coat of 30 minute epoxy to further strengthen and waterproof the bait. You can also wait to add the lip until after painting if you so choose in which case the lip would be added before the final top coat. I only build baits for myself and a few friends so this may be more steps than someone who is selling baits wants to take. If that were the case I would seal them with a coat of 30 minute epoxy. hope this helps, Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJBarron Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 I don't think there is a per say best way but there is a best way for each builder. This a couple choices I have used and still using just depends on what mood and what weight balsa I'm using. Thin Super Glue: absorbs well, dries fast, makes a good hard suface, but I can't stand the smell. Waterproof Wood glue: No oder, easy brush on, absorbs well, makes a good hard surface, I use 2 coats then dry overnight. Counter top epoxy (Lowes): My current method. Thin, absorbs well, cures hard, needs at least a full day cure time. This is my current method for my wood cranks. 1. After sanding I put it on it holder (i use the nail and clothes pin) I use the table top epoxy, brus it on just what the wood can absorb and let it sit over night to cure. No rotation. 2. Sand if any lose grain pops up. 3. I apply one more coat to give me a good surface the paint and I use a turner for this step and let it turn and cure overnight. Hope this helped more than it confused you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Thanks Ben, I appreciate the input. I have been looking at a few different processes for making the Balsa baits and along with sealing them. Just trying to weight all the options. I don't want to have to put all my eggs in one basket. I am more looking at the Balsa side for my own line instead of just doing all Unpainted and hard plastics. BJBarron, That helps also. I am thinking the epoxy method would be the best, but I am not sure how it would work for the process I am thinking of making the baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJBarron Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) Anytime. I posted a picture this morning of some cranks I painted last night. That will show you the nail and clothes pin method. The front hanger was put in when I put my first sealer coat on. Bill slot is cut right before paint. Edited September 12, 2016 by BJBarron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 I did see that post. Those flat sides do look nice.Thanks again for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 At this point ETex thinned with denatured alcohol 1 part, 1 part 1 part, resin , hardener and alcohol. (mix resin and hardener as usual let sit a bit then thin) repeat full strength the next day. But I have heard you don't need to wait to recoat over the thinned etex. For my next batch I plan to do this Coat as usual with thinned etex but instead of putting on the rotator and forgetting about them, hang out for an hour and retouch dry spots as required. After an hour or so put a second coat of full strength etex, hang out for a half hour and manage heavy spots and smooth as required as the lures are rotating. I am also considering tinting the undercoat white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Runny superglue is my choice. I apply generously and sand, and then repeat a second, thinner coat to catch any bald spots created. I fix my hardware with this glue also, but I don't sell baits. Yes, the smell is dangerous, so I keep a fan blowing across when working with CA glue. I spread with my bare finger and clean off with acetone. When finished I apply moisturizer to my hands. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 I've used D2T, superglue and propionate dissolved in acetone for sealing balsa. All of them work but to me, the epoxy is best since it reinforces the wood best. Lately, I've switched to using Solarez UV cured polyester resin. Why? I got some and decided I did not like it for a topcoat, so tried it as an undercoating. It works well, seems as strong as epoxy, and is very quick. But like epoxy, I need to sand it after curing to remove the gloss and the small bubbles it produces. The propionate works very well but requires a thin solution and multiple dips (5-7) to build up a coating that is thick enough in my estimation. But it dries quickly between dips and any bubbles usually happen on the first dip only. With 6-10 lures to coat, by the time I dip the last lure, the first is usually ready for re-dipping. After coating is finished, it takes overnight for the prop to become really hard. I rarely build batches of more than 3-4 baits these days, so I've dropped using prop and find the Solarez to suit me best. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benton B Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 1 coat super glue then sand smooth, 1 coat of flex coat rod epoxy, prime and paint. This has been my method for many yrs and many baits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrybait Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 I have built some flat sides lately out of balsa. I used super glue initially, then painted and D2T'd. Even with a couple of coats of D2T I still had too much flex and the lures got damaged easily while fishing. I used solarez and it made a much tougher lure. I really want to try the propionate but haven't yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Good stuff here. Does any one use any type of urethane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 I topcoat a lot with moisture cured urethane but don't use it as an undercoating. On balsa, I like a good thick undercoating that reinforces the soft wood and MCU is too thin for that, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Oh.... I'm going to regret this post I believe, but here goes. I use a Minwax wood hardener/sealer. I brush it on, then sand with 220 grit paper. If need be I do this again. Dry's quickly and accepts water base paints well. As advertised it even hardens the wood quiet a bit. I take time around drilled hangers to seal this area properly. I haven't had water intrusion yet. My two bits worth, Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckeye Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Has anyone tried this process to seal wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21xdc Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 KBS diamond clear gets my vote once again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Has anyone tried this process to seal wood? Did you see in the second video where he said "they no longer float"? Not something that is desirable in most wooden lures. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckeye Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 I did see that part but he left it in there for a hour and a half. I was thinking more a long the lines of 15-20 mins 25 mins tops. I was thinking it would get deeper in the wood but not so deep the affected the action or the ability to float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 That might work, but it would be hard to get a consistent build when building multiple baits since the grain of the wood can vary from one piece of wood to the next. Moisture content from one piece of wood to the next would probably have an effect on this as well.You could use different amounts of ballast to make the total weight the same, but by using different ballast amounts you can alter the balance of the lure. And then again it might be the best thing since the invention of the metal fish hook. Ben 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted September 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Internets been down here at work so I could not reply to the posts. Great stuff, I appreciate all the advice. Thank you all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) That might work, but it would be hard to get a consistent build when building multiple baits since the grain of the wood can vary from one piece of wood to the next. Moisture content from one piece of wood to the next would probably have an effect on this as well.You could use different amounts of ballast to make the total weight the same, but by using different ballast amounts you can alter the balance of the lure. And then again it might be the best thing since the invention of the metal fish hook. Ben I think you are more optimistic than I am... I would stick to stabilizing pen blanks with the cactus juice unless the goal is to make lure key chains. Could skip the vacuum chamber I guess but still less than ideal. Edited September 14, 2016 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mayhem1202 Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 I think propionate still takes some beating as a penetrating sealer, but availability is an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Years ago I tried using Minwax Wood Stabilzing Resin (part of a rot repair system) as a sealer/waterproofer for my wood swimbaits. I soaked the blanks for an hour. The resin absorbed, but it took forever to cure inside the wood. Even after 48 hours I got bubbling out of the end grain when I hit the blanks with a hair dryer. I assume that was from resin that hadn't fully cured yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 (edited) I agree with Ben about the Cactus Juice. I think the reason we use balsa is its buoyancy. Compromise the buoyancy and we might as well use a harder wood that requires fewer measures to reinforce it. I believe the vacuum process is mainly intended for guys who build wood pens, knife handles and such. Yeah, using prop is a decent alternative IF you can find some to buy. A couple of TUers sold the stuff awhile ago, but one of them passed away and I haven't seen the othe post in a few years. Edited September 15, 2016 by BobP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 @ Mark, This goes on fine with no bubbles. Leveling is a very small issue if you put a second coat on. Sanding will eliminate that. Drying time is within hours but I leave it over night and a day every time. I have tested it to a point that there is no point and doing anymore. I have a habit of testing everything to extremes. I think of the wood being protected with just this. The clear coat is to protect the paint, but it's a second protection and giving a effect or making it shiny for the ones who like that. Just my way, Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
