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Options For Sealing Balsa

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This is kinda like top coats. Everyone has their own preferred method, and you have to find what works for you. I prefer light stuff because the action is not muted, but where I know durability is an issue I will use Solarez. That's just my preferred method though. Find what is best for you, and go with it!

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Well, im super brand new to wooden lure making just turned my first 2 on my new lathe. i took woodshop in highschool and loved it so i figured id take my passion of fishing and lure making and go onto making wood lures. so i did a little research about sealing wood and i used the minwax spare urethane cut with mineral spirits. i dont know how good this method it is because like i said it was my first 2 lures. but i was able to paint them without the paint soaking into the wood so i was impressed. It doesnt cost a lot and you can get it just about any where. hopefully it helped or gave a little insight to a different approach. take care 

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I have been building tons of balsa wood muskie baits and I do use propionate which it works just fine, but because of muskie fishing I wanted the surface of the balsa a litle harder, the last batch of baits I made I used Devcon  two ton on two baits and thinned it really thin, like water, I brushed it on the plain balsa and it soaked in to the wood like a sponge, I really liked the resolt, I had only sand down to raised wood grain and no need for a second coat, would not absorb any more epoxy

Hope this helps

Gino

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I use wood hardener for my cedar lures. I filled one of those preserve jars that have a lid with a silicone seal and a wire loop and hook to lock it down.  The lures go into the jar overnight and the jar gets turned upside down and back again a few times. Take the lures out in the AM and wipe them off. Let them dry a few hours, sand and prime. The bonus for me is that I use a through wire, so the hardener gets into the bore hole for the wire and seals the inside of the lure. 

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Propionate is a translucent blue plastic-looking product from cellulose that is sold in the form of little beads.   You dissolve it in acetone and dip the lure into it.  Palmetto Balsa, a TU Member, used to sell it but haven't seen him here on the site for several years now.  I think it was the undercoating originally used on Rapala balsa lures.  I've tried it, it works fine, but there are plenty of alternatives that work just as well, are faster, and most importantly are readily available as the above posts indicate.

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On 21 april 2017 at 7:39 PM, StriperCandy said:

I use wood hardener for my cedar lures. I filled one of those preserve jars that have a lid with a silicone seal and a wire loop and hook to lock it down.  The lures go into the jar overnight and the jar gets turned upside down and back again a few times. Take the lures out in the AM and wipe them off. Let them dry a few hours, sand and prime. The bonus for me is that I use a through wire, so the hardener gets into the bore hole for the wire and seals the inside of the lure. 

I have always wanted to try Minvax Wood hardener for my detailed carved lures cause I need a sealer that doesn't build on the surface like epoxy, propionate and so on. But I've heard that Wood hardener is very toxic stuff. Do I need to use special protection clothes when I use it :)? 

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On 23 april 2017 at 5:28 AM, StriperCandy said:

Gloves, and the always recommended eye protection. There are no fumes. 

Thanks for the answer. 
Have you tried other kinds of wood hardeners or have you only tried Minvax wood hardener? Just want to know if Minvax version is the best option cause Minvax is really hard to get a hand on in my country (Sweden). 

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You can I suppose but there are options just as good that are cheaper, plus keep in mind that MCU is sensitive to ambient moisture hardening.  I reserve mine for topcoating due to the expense and sensitivity.

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