mark poulson Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Dale, I don't know if you're talking about the Minwax epoxy resin that come in the yellow metal cans, or did back then. I've used the Minwax sanding sealer, too. It was a different product. It worked for me for cranks, but not for jointed swim baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 This is kinda like top coats. Everyone has their own preferred method, and you have to find what works for you. I prefer light stuff because the action is not muted, but where I know durability is an issue I will use Solarez. That's just my preferred method though. Find what is best for you, and go with it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northrivergeek Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 epoxy , has been and still is best choice imo .. this is what I use and where I get it , http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmithersBaits Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Well, im super brand new to wooden lure making just turned my first 2 on my new lathe. i took woodshop in highschool and loved it so i figured id take my passion of fishing and lure making and go onto making wood lures. so i did a little research about sealing wood and i used the minwax spare urethane cut with mineral spirits. i dont know how good this method it is because like i said it was my first 2 lures. but i was able to paint them without the paint soaking into the wood so i was impressed. It doesnt cost a lot and you can get it just about any where. hopefully it helped or gave a little insight to a different approach. take care 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 I have been building tons of balsa wood muskie baits and I do use propionate which it works just fine, but because of muskie fishing I wanted the surface of the balsa a litle harder, the last batch of baits I made I used Devcon two ton on two baits and thinned it really thin, like water, I brushed it on the plain balsa and it soaked in to the wood like a sponge, I really liked the resolt, I had only sand down to raised wood grain and no need for a second coat, would not absorb any more epoxy Hope this helps Gino 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyco Posted April 3, 2017 Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 Ok dumb question, but what is the propionate and where do you get it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StriperCandy Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 I use wood hardener for my cedar lures. I filled one of those preserve jars that have a lid with a silicone seal and a wire loop and hook to lock it down. The lures go into the jar overnight and the jar gets turned upside down and back again a few times. Take the lures out in the AM and wipe them off. Let them dry a few hours, sand and prime. The bonus for me is that I use a through wire, so the hardener gets into the bore hole for the wire and seals the inside of the lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 21, 2017 Report Share Posted April 21, 2017 Propionate is a translucent blue plastic-looking product from cellulose that is sold in the form of little beads. You dissolve it in acetone and dip the lure into it. Palmetto Balsa, a TU Member, used to sell it but haven't seen him here on the site for several years now. I think it was the undercoating originally used on Rapala balsa lures. I've tried it, it works fine, but there are plenty of alternatives that work just as well, are faster, and most importantly are readily available as the above posts indicate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickadoll Posted April 23, 2017 Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 On 21 april 2017 at 7:39 PM, StriperCandy said: I use wood hardener for my cedar lures. I filled one of those preserve jars that have a lid with a silicone seal and a wire loop and hook to lock it down. The lures go into the jar overnight and the jar gets turned upside down and back again a few times. Take the lures out in the AM and wipe them off. Let them dry a few hours, sand and prime. The bonus for me is that I use a through wire, so the hardener gets into the bore hole for the wire and seals the inside of the lure. I have always wanted to try Minvax Wood hardener for my detailed carved lures cause I need a sealer that doesn't build on the surface like epoxy, propionate and so on. But I've heard that Wood hardener is very toxic stuff. Do I need to use special protection clothes when I use it :)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StriperCandy Posted April 23, 2017 Report Share Posted April 23, 2017 Gloves, and the always recommended eye protection. There are no fumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pickadoll Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 On 23 april 2017 at 5:28 AM, StriperCandy said: Gloves, and the always recommended eye protection. There are no fumes. Thanks for the answer. Have you tried other kinds of wood hardeners or have you only tried Minvax wood hardener? Just want to know if Minvax version is the best option cause Minvax is really hard to get a hand on in my country (Sweden). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StriperCandy Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 I'm using PC-Petrifier in a one gallon bottle. I found it on line. I don't think there's much difference between brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 If I wanted to seal something like a cedar plug or through wire popper (lathe lures) without having to force epoxy down the center drilled hole, do you guys think either of these would work? I'm kinda curious now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyco Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Any thoughts on sealing with KBS diamond coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 You can I suppose but there are options just as good that are cheaper, plus keep in mind that MCU is sensitive to ambient moisture hardening. I reserve mine for topcoating due to the expense and sensitivity. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...