Landry Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Anyone tried Lureworks new CoLure Water Based paint and then clear coated it with SB Coat or dipped it in clear plastisol? Or are the SB paints a better choice. Was wondering if this paint is the best or brightest paint out there. I am looking to add eyes, and bright splashes of hot colors... to a 10" Muskie soft paddle tail I make. Thanks Landry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Their water based and solvent based paints are the only plastisol compatible paints available to hobbyists. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landry Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Are the SB paints opaque it transparent? Can I add vibrant colors with it? I hear it does not need a top coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 I would say they are more transparent. Unless you use black. They have dotting colors but in limited color that are more opaque. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Why not call the MFG for accurate info? Bruce will answer all of your questions. You may get an answering message- so leave your message w/ area code and phone # and he will call you back. He is not there on Fridays Bruce Mac Elroy Spike-it plastisol 912-225-4533 EXT-106 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landry Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks guys. I will call them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landry Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Due to the size of my baits (9-16" Muskie baits) I have decided to go with the SB Coat paint from Lureworks. I just can't see dipping baits this big in clearasol after using water based paint. Anyone use this paint. Any reviews, tips...?? Thanks Landry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Due to the size of my baits (9-16" Muskie baits) I have decided to go with the SB Coat paint from Lureworks. I just can't see dipping baits this big in clearasol after using water based paint. Anyone use this paint. Any reviews, tips...?? Thanks Landry Take a look at Water Wolf Lures, thats exactly what Mike does. Even though it is the solvent based paint it does pop after dipping it in a clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landry Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Thanks for the info. Mikes lures are incredible. I think I am gonna start with SB and spray on the clear too. I cAn always move to dipping later. I am not gonna try to compete with the beauty of his baits. Mine are more utilitarian and only for me and my buddies. Having said that, the action is very different. My profile is a little taller and the bait has a ton of body wobble and a tiny bit less tail wiggle. Plus i can make them dirt cheap. Making the harness/weight was the hardest part by far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Do you know you can use the water based paint and clear with the solvent clear? Much easier on the shop conditions and the bad smell will be short lived if you only clear once in awhile. Just keep the water based one separate till you clear cause they might stick together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Solvent based paint dries in minutes- no clear required. Offensive & dangerous smell is non-existent w/ good booth and exhaust. I prefer the 1 step method for the 1,000's of swim-baits I paint per year Tried dipping w/ water base years ago( just to be objective) - took forever to dry. No thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico.29 Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 i think there is a way to make your own soft lure paint, i have seen some painted soft lure with homemade paint and the result is really great, but no one gives his formula, but i kn ow it's possible to do with market products, just have to know how to do it. I'm very surprise that there is no post about homemade paint for soft lure on this forum, there is tons of tutorial but not about paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Spike-it soft plastic paint -why try to re-invent the wheel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico.29 Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Spike-it soft plastic paint -why try to re-invent the wheel! well, just because spike it is not available oversea, and also , may be some formula are better than spike it because they don't have to be coated, it also allows to make your own colors, for a much better price Edited November 12, 2016 by rico.29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 well, just because spike it is not available oversea, and also , may be some formula are better than spike it because they don't have to be coated, it also allows to make your own colors, for a much better price It is not true that you can't get the paint over seas. Bruce told me he can send it over seas but the only container that is approved to fly there is a quart size. If you buy the clear and have powdered colors you can make any color you want. Most of the best painting is not done by just putting one color on it is a layering of multiple colors which make you see the desired affect. The guys that don't give you a how to or what I used is because it does not stick. Anyone can paint a masterpiece but when it gets bent or enters the water that is the real test. Most of those home brews fail that test. Spikeits colors stick and stick well. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico.29 Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 My concern is almost price, i think the "base" to make a homemade paint is PVC cleaner (about 10 usd a liter), MEK, pvc glue and??? i guess you can make about 3 liters of paint for 30 usd, and you just get 4 fl oz for 10 usd (without shipping), just have to get "the formula"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted November 12, 2016 Report Share Posted November 12, 2016 Here, in Europe, due to the anaffordable shipping costs, several Soft Bait Makers tried to elaborate "home brews". In this thread http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31413-homemade-spike-it/ I have already explained the recipe 50/50 PVC glue/MEK plus some drops of color or some powder dye. This solvent paint stick enough well, but it is too viscous for airbrush and I could apply it only with brush. Anyway painted works of Boggs Custom Lures are well known and ... he mix himself his paint, so the "Formula" exists. Talking about the No Solvent Paint, a Frech Soft Bait Maker wrote this article http://esoxiste.com/decoration-leurres-souples/ He is using the german Real Effect Special Vinyl Color for Reborning Dolls with success (but painted soft baits must be dipped in clear). Guys, what do you think about this Vinyl Paint? Could it be similar to the Spike It one? Bye. Cami Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djs Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 You need thf (Tetrahydrofuran) as a solvent. It will melt pvc the best than any solvent I know of. Some Cyclohexanone to act as a retarder for an airbrush. Here in the US I can buy the lureworks (spike it )paint cheaper than the chemicals. Melt uncolored plastisol in thf to make the base for paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Dear DJS, thank you very much for your help. Please, are you talking about plastisol in solution before heating or already heated and poured? Do you know the ratio in volume or weight between Tetrahydrofuran and Plastisol to create this paint base, please? I found it for 7€/100 ml ... to start an initial experiment with black it is ok. Bye. Cami Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djs Posted November 13, 2016 Report Share Posted November 13, 2016 Already heated and poured clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff@mf Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I'm not 100% sure but I heard through the grapevine to use vinyl paint adhesive and add either the powder color to it or concentrate dyes directly to it. I believe this has been a trade secret for many years and would like to know more about this myself. This has been something I want to try for a while but kinda dropped off my list of to do's while overcoming chronic foot issues. Now that i'm up and going 75% + improvement from 3 years this crap all i can think of fishing and hunting, well that and business and the wife..of subject 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 (edited) Dear djs, thank you for your suggestion about THF, I tried also it. About poured clear plastisol I've been able only to obtain a dense gel ... not applicable; instead with the original formula to use the PVC glue (Jeff, you are right) I've been able to airbrush only one soft bait. After that the mixture completely clogs the duse 0,8 mm. I suppose that the root cause of this accident is that the THF evaporates very quickly and the mixture becomes too viscous to pass through. FYI I did not find/apply the cycloexanone to retard this evaporation. I continued to apply the mixture to another soft bait with a brush (as I have already done with the MEK/PVC glue mixture). As with airbrush applying, as with brush applying the varnish penetrate very well on the plastisol surface. Here you are the pictures of 2 tests. The recipe is: 5 drops per 100 ml of plastisol, after that the back and the area around the eyes have been airbrushed with a mixture of 50% Tangit PVC glue, 50% of THF, more 10 drops of black ... of course body has two inserts of mylar net per side. The recipe is the same, but the back has been painted with a brush; gills are in mylar foil ... ehm, it's an uncompleted bait. Please Guys, if you have made similar experiments, perhaps it is possible to gather all our experiences and arrive to a final formula. Bye. Cami Edited November 19, 2016 by Cami 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff@mf Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 (edited) I have mek and acetone both very flammable mek being worse I believe and can get samples of pretty much anything for testing, it's not been a priority for me since I do not sell finished baits for a living. We have been able to formulate a dry plastisol that most dry sinks this will also help adhering and testing vinyl glue, color and ? to achieve it to be thinned out enough not to clog your sprayers. Holidays are here so I can work on more after new year, first is to find a cheap brush on version and go from there. I have no intention to supplying only to help find cheaper sources. There won't be any major suppliers chiming in for you because of the success of the material and painting skills, your on the right track it seems. Edit from above I was on phone at same time and just now re-read the post.. Up above should of said vinyl floor adhesive, not sure it comes in clear or what I never laid vinyl floor. I have done formica in my back yard many years ago and can't recall what color it was probably brownish. Hardwood floor glue is what got me thinking of this. Edited November 21, 2016 by jeff@mf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Dear Jeff, thank you for your clarification about the use of Vinyl Floor Adhesive, in fact I used till now Tangit that is a glue for PVC-U, that is glue for rigid PVC pipes: I will give a try to the Vinyl Floor Adhesive. Thank you also for your help in testing, I'm sure that an experienced man like you, will arrive to obtain the right Formula: let know us your results, please. FYI I learnt from the initial French Forum that the best thing is to dry/clean the soft bait with a soft pc. of paper imbibed with MEK before the painting. As already said it is quite easy to use with a brush the mix of MEK/PVC glue or THF/PVC glue, but I'm not Michelangelo and with the airbrush pen it's a little be easier, moreover you can obtain better results in terms of mixing colors. Talking about toxic/strong effect I suppose that THF is the worst one because it has dissolved the plastic pipe of the glass airbrush cup, instead it didn't happen with MEK. Well, as you say ... "working in progress". Bye. Cami Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 MEK will soften plastic baits-Acetone will not. Acetone evaporates much faster then MEK Both are excellent metal parts cleaner cleaners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
