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Juicegoose

Klasskote Sprayable Epoxy Vs. Automotive 2K Clear.

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First Post and learning a lot from you tackle guys. I don't paint hardbaits but I do paint some small objects that see similar abuse. I was looking at options above and beyond typical 2k automotive clearcoat. I need to be able to spray the clear as film build is key for me. I had recently picked up some Klasskote clear and it sprays great but had a yellow hue to the hardener. Couple questions for you old dogs.

 

Is epoxy clear truly that much harder then 2k automotive clear?

Is there any brand of sprayable epoxy clear out there that doesn't yellow as fast?

 

Thanks for any replies I truly appreciate it.

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There are some that have been proven to be anti yellowing. KBS Diamond Clear, Dick Nite, Devcon 2 Ton and others. Since that clear that you used yellows, these people must be steering away from it. They will not use anything that would do this within an reasonable amount of time.

My question and I believe some would ask you is this. What is the material, paint or whatever this clear coat is covering? This is important to what you could use. D2T is as tough as it gets, but it doesn't like edges. Then the others are lighter per layer, but if weight is a issue then these might be what you want. I'll set out and read from here on. There are ones here that is more experienced with the others then I am.

Welcome to TU,

Dale

Edited by DaleSW
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It's a general rule that all epoxies yellow eventually, and I've heard that any finish ending in "thane" will too. It's just a matter of time. In my experience, the hardest, thinnest, most durable clear finish is moisture cured urethane. Two brands are popular here on TU. KBS Diamond Coat and Dick Nite Fishermun's Lurecoat. They can be thinned with xylene. The problem you may have is whether either one is compatible with the finish coatings you apply it to. If not, they tend to bubble up and ruin the finish.

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