grosenberg Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Hi All, I'm new to the forum and new to airbrushing lures, but so far it's fun. I used Devcon last night and I'm not a fan of brushing on, and how quickly it hardens. Plus I feel it's too thick for plastic. So I'm looking for something I can dip and buy local. I live in a condo so I need it to be able to be done inside my home. I want to buy some today because I'm super impatient lol. Otherwise I might just order some of that KBS Diamond. I live downtown Chicago. Thanks, Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 you can use Etex, dries slower than Devcon if you are looking to stick with a epoxy coat. KBS does have some fumes, but it is what I use on my bass baits 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 KBS has several locations in Chicago you should be able to buy at. Several others not too far of drive if you have to head to Gary or Valpo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 I hated Epoxy, dried far too fast. I'll try to find it locally but didn't see anything on google shopping, i'll look at their local dealers on their site and see what I can find. Thanks guys. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Fisher Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Gary, you must have had the 5 min DT2, you don't get much working time with it. If you were to try the 30 min version and add a few drops of denatured alcohol to thin it out a little you can get about 10-15 minutes work time(max). I know this doesn't sound like much time but I can clear 4-6 small to medium baits in that time, but you have to learn to work quickly. Now granted I have a lure turner to put them on to get the epoxy to level out nice. Now Brian mentioned how Etex epoxy dries slower so you get a longer working time. I find with Etex I can do 7-9 of those same baits within the working time. If you don't mix Etex very, very thoroughly you can get some finishing problems. But I find Etex will take at least 2 coats,sometimes several, to achieve that depth of color we all strive for. I will usually add some iridescent glitter to my first coat of Etex, followed by 1 or 2 mores coats of straight Etex and WOW you can't believe the depth of color and sparkle you get. I can't stress how much a lure turner will help with epoxy. It sucks to do a killer paint job and have clear coat problems that screw up a nice bait. Turners are easy to make, I think there is a tutorial here(TU) or there are some on Youtube. I made mine for less than $20 and they will help you get a killer finish. Also if you can, get yourself a small digital scale for mixing the epoxy, maybe $10 at Harbor Freight. This way your mixing ratios are exact every time. You can find Envirotex lite (ETEX) at Michaels crafts and use their online 40% coupon, HobbyLobby might have it as well and they also have a 40% coupon. Tower Hobbies has DT2 online 13$ for the 8.5oz size with free shipping I believe. I have used moisture cure urethane and was not happy with the look of the finish. You get more of a flat or matte finish. I haven't tried KBS yet so I can't comment there, but don't give up on epoxy yet. We all had issues when we first started and you'll work through yours too. Welcome to the Underground!! First step down a very slippery slope!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Also if you can, get yourself a small digital scale for mixing the epoxy, maybe $10 at Harbor Freight. This way your mixing ratios are exact every time. The epoxies we use are meant to be measured by volume. Not weight. You can use a scale to measure the two parts, but the weights won't be equal. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Fisher Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Thanks Ben. I'm using small quantities, 15g of resin and hardener each and have had no issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Thanks guys, I found the stuff at Michaels, ended up trying the spray stuff, just to test. I'll get the Etex soon and try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) Thanks Ben. I'm using small quantities, 15g of resin and hardener each and have had no issues. AZ, D2T is much more forgiving of incorrect portions. I have found that E tex is much less forgiving. I use Flex Coat syringes, which I keep in holes drilled into the top of each bottle, to be sure my mix proportions are close, by volume. The tips of the syringes are tapered (cone shaped) so I drill holes that are the diameter of the syringe tip at the half way point, so they are a friction fit, and won't fall out. I use the 3 cc syringes. http://www.flexcoat.com/products/supplies-accessories/color-coded-syringes Edited November 8, 2016 by mark poulson 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Fisher Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Thank you, Mark! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted November 9, 2016 Report Share Posted November 9, 2016 Gary, ETEX is much thinner and runnier than Devcon Two Ton epoxy and requires rotation for at least twice as long to avoid sags and drips. Do yourself a favor and build a rotator before you try it. As far as gloss and toughness goes, I think moisture cured urethane like KBS or Dick Nite S81 Fishermun's Lurecoat are actually a bit more glossy than epoxy and tougher for the same coating thickness. They form a very thin, very tough topcoat that is similar to a factory finish. You can simply dip lures and hang them up to dry/cure hard (no rotation should be used). KBS is slower to go off and begin hardening in your storage container, so gets the nod for convenience, but Dick Nite is also fine if you use the "tap the can" method of storing and dispensing it and quickly brush on a flood coat of it before hanging it up to drip off the excess and dry. I use both epoxy and MCU. MCU on plastic baits and epoxy on wood. All of these are good choices, just depending on the end product you want to achieve and the technique you want to use. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2016 Thanks Bob, Looking for something "easier" to use. Also need something that doesn't take up a lot of space, a rotator will increase the space I need as well as storage. Which in downtown Chicago is very expensive real estate. I'm gonna give the KBS a try. Seems like a good amount for low cost too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) Thanks Bob, Looking for something "easier" to use. Also need something that doesn't take up a lot of space, a rotator will increase the space I need as well as storage. Which in downtown Chicago is very expensive real estate. I'm gonna give the KBS a try. Seems like a good amount for low cost too. Be sure to read up on the ventilation and respirator suggestions here. Check out post #10 in this thread: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31854-kbs-diamond-clear/ Edited November 11, 2016 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Try using a wider brush for application. Thin out the bristles to 1mm or less thick. This makes application of epoxy much faster and smoother. If you also thin with denatured alcohol the thin bristles break up any bubbles real nice. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31822-a-better-epoxy-brush/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 Thanks all for the help, I really do appericate it. I made two new lures last night. I'll be ordering some new supplies to do top coats this weekend, including a cheap rotator that's cordless that fits my specific needs for size, etc. I wish I had a garage lol. You can see my newest lures. (only my third set) https://www.facebook.com/garyrosenbergfishing/ The first pic is there. I made a yellow and black one as well. Found lurepartsonline.com sells a rotator pretty cheap. They also have other parts I've been trying to find locally as well so I'm gonna place a sizable order this weekend. Once again, thanks a lot for dealing with my questions and great resource you all have built here. Looking forward to contributing as I increase my skill set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 Oh, forgot to ask, what do you guys use to clean your brushes you use to apply epoxy? Also found out you guys were right, I ended up using 5 min set time DevCon last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Centigrade Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) Etex is the best, remember to let it sit for a few minutes so it wont be to runny after stirring and it will also bring bubbles to the surface. Also i like to exhale a breath over the cup and it will actually pull some of the extra bubble out (thanks Bill). As for your airbrush cleaner, most guys i know by the expensive stuff by createx. But i use an empty spray bottle and this homemade mix. Iso 99% 4 ounces Distilled Water 12 ounces Glycerin 16 drops Its Cheap Cheap Cheap If your brush is clogged up and you don't clean it well between uses, use acetone. I don't soak it! I just wipe it with que tips and those tiny bristle tooth picks in the dental section. Like new after, with no overnight soaking Edited November 18, 2016 by Centigrade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grosenberg Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
