jsargentina7 Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 I'm very new to the making your own lures thing so I don't have much experience. I am wondering how well super glue holds in screw eyes. It seems like some sort of epoxy is the best but I didn't have any on hand and all I had was some super glue. Has anyone else had any experience using that instead of epoxy? Any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) I use it all the time for anchoring my screw eyes. I drill a small pilot hole, run the screw eye in and then take it back out again. If it's a PVC bait, I coat the screw eye with super glue and then run it back in, letting the squeeze out form a pocket around the eye to keep it from rotating and unscrewing. I've never had that happen in all the years I've been doing it. For balsa baits, once I've drilled the pilot hole, I use a fine sst wire to put runny super glue all the way down into the pilot hole, so it soaks into the surrounding wood and makes it stronger. Then I run the screw eye in and back out, just like with PVC, coat it with super glue, and run it in again. I use LPO's weighted hook hangers for my belly weights, and do the same thing with the 1/4" holes for them. A word of caution. Make sure the glue in the holes has dried/set before you test fit your dry ballast weights in the hole. I didn't do that with one bait, and I wound up twisting the wire off of the weight when I tried to get it back out. I have built balsa baits this way out of hobby store light balsa, and the hardware has held up to fish, and slapping weeds off my bait. I did a lot just to test how well the hardware held, and it never had a problem. Edited November 11, 2016 by mark poulson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 X2, to Mark statement!! Just believe/trust me don't worry at all. Just make sure you get the glue in there properly. Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osutodd Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Just experimenting with different techniques, I discovered the glue/epoxy is usually stronger than the wood, and sometimes even stronger than the eyes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted November 11, 2016 Report Share Posted November 11, 2016 Yep, it is stronger then the normal hanger material that you get from suppliers. The wood will hold also. I don't use balsa much, but it will do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsargentina7 Posted November 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2016 Thanks for your help! This is very helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmail Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) What a coincidence ''jsargentina7'', just started playing with this stuff- I have done a test with Devcon epoxy before and supaglue is comparable in a weight test (did not stress test it). With both tests I used 20mm of twisted 1mm stainless wire glued into a 25mm square piece of Indonesian Mahogany (med/soft)- I tried ''Zap medium'' first and hung 20 Kg (44 Lb) of water off it for 2 days, no problem at all with it. I found some trailer hitches and a piece of railway line (anvil) and added it to the 20 kg bucket of water (total weight 26Kg- or 57Lb)), attached another block of wood with same size screw eyes which were this time glued with ''Loktite 460'', hung it in a tree in my back yard for a week which included 3 days of heavy rain (wood unsealed)--------nothing moved except the tree. (pictured below) IMHO-------Higher viscosity ''superglues'', compared to your $1 hardware/ drug store variety seem to work better as they don't soak into the wood as quick and allow both wood and metal to bond. Also "Loktite 460'' is a ''low bloom'' glue, so can be used sparingly on polycarbonate, they make about 10 (or more) different types of supaglues. I don't work for anyone, including Loktite .!!!!!!! I was impressed--- Pete Edited November 15, 2016 by hazmail 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 Pete - I did similar tests with the same results. I can seal a lure and fit the hardware at the same time. DAve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) I'll now say that I did the same thing as Pete and Dave, when I first started making blanks. I did this inside with lead bars. I did stress test with pine and only a 3/4" drill hole in the wood. I did this because I could get superglues quick and easier then D2T 30 minute. Everyone here used D2T I needed to use what was available to me. I needed to know. As I stated in my first post, trust me no problems using the epoxy glues. Dale Edited November 15, 2016 by DaleSW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted November 15, 2016 Report Share Posted November 15, 2016 I've always used epoxy to anchor hardware, specifically Rod Bond paste epoxy which I like because of its longer work time and that it does not run like liquid epoxies. I worry about the shock resistance of super glue. When I first started messing with lure hardware, it seemed relatively easy to break the glue bond of super glue just by quickly turning a screw eye with moderate force. Epoxy seems to have more resilience to impacts. I know the choice depends to a large extent on the mechanics of how you build crankbaits and the timing involved. I build baits in batches of 3-6 and usually install hardware in the evenings so letting epoxy cure over night is a non-issue. Hey, whatever works for you. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
