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joelhains

Leaky Blanks

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I just got in my first order of crank blanks. I've been wanting to get into painting my own for sometime and am finally getting around to it! So today I attach a few hooks and took a few unpainted blank out to the pond to check out the actions of the different models. One of the blanks had some water inside after a dozen casts or so. Is this normal? I'm not going to mention the suppliers name but it was one that was highly recommended on this forum. The blanks have a quality "feel" to them and I imagine that after they are epoxied they will seal up and leaking won't be an issue.

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where is it leaking at?  on a seam or is it a screw eye thread. if its on a screw eye thread, i would just put a drop of super glue and call it good.  or just email or call the seller and let them know.  i am about 100% possitive they would make it right with you.  It is just like anything else,  car parts, computer parts etc....  once in awhile you just get a bad one......

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There are two problems:

 

1- the girls on the assembly line do not fish, and merely think that they are gluing two halves together.

 

2 - they are on the clock. They get paid for production, not quality.

 

You got your dollars worth, it is not worth messing about with returns, the postage costs more than the bait. Put this one down to experience and like everyone says; don't get the lures wet until you have sealed them yourself.

 

Dave

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Near as I can tell it looks to be leaking from one of the hook hangers. I don't plan screwing around with returns. I'll just seal it up and see how it goes. Just curious if it was par for the course to have them leak before painting/sealing. Thanks

 

Be sure your bait is completely dry inside before you paint and seal it.  I use a hair dryer to heat it repeatedly so the moisture in it gets out more easily.  Then use a drop of super glue to seal the hook hanger that is leaking.

Don't rush.  Trapped moisture will cause problems down the road.

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In a lure factory setting, blanks are usually ultrasonically welded. In an Asian batch factory, they are probably glued by hand which results in more that leak or are unevenly matched. That's why you see a lot of knockoffs with sanded seams, etc. it's just part and parcel of buying Asian knockoffs. Where available, I choose knockoffs built in Japan, which have fewer defects. I check each lure out closely before finishing for holes in the seams or stuck internal rattle weights, etc.

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One of the benefits of dipping my plastic KO blanks in clean acetone quickly before I paint them is that it melts the top layer of plastic a little, and kind of self-seals any small leaks.  Of course, big leaks are another story, and leaving the bait in the acetone for any length of time can actually create big leaks because it does melt the plastic.  I learned that the hard way.   :wink:

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This is one reason of many that turned me towrds making my own. I have had this problem and as Ben stated that the company sent me a replacement. That's what hapened most of the time. As most has stated give them a good go over and get them sealed before getting them wet.

No matter where you get them from, even with good quality control some get through.

Dale

Edited by DaleSW
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Give the leaky ones a few dips in one of the concrete sealers that folks on this site have recommended for a topcoat.  They're very thin and don't add much weight and will seal the smaller leaks.  Let the blanks air dry, avoid using a dehydrator or warmer to speed dry as it will cause gas to escape from the leaks and make blisters in the sealer.  After painting the blanks pay extra attention when top coating around the hook hanger and line ties.  (Assuming you use a 2 part epoxy)  Folks on this site can answer just about any question you may have...humbly trying to contribute.

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No lure blank manufacturer will recommend running the lure without at least a clear coat, even those ultrasonically welded. Once a lure is painted and sealed, even the cheapest of china made blanks will be water tight. Some one previously mentioned about only glued lures being sanded, which is not entirely correct. Depending on the model, a number of ultra welded blanks are also sanded on the seams.

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I recently experienced leaking 1.5s I bought from a reputable seller. I reported the problem to them but he has not got back with me. You cant tell they leak until you've painted them and epoxied them. When you remove them from the drying wheel a small volcano like mound has developed on the nose right in the center on where I presume it is seamed together. Same place on each blank. Only 3 out of 12 leaked but Ive got about 20 left and to see a good paint job lost due to this is discouraging. 

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On 11/29/2016 at 8:44 PM, reallison said:

I recently experienced leaking 1.5s I bought from a reputable seller. I reported the problem to them but he has not got back with me. You cant tell they leak until you've painted them and epoxied them. When you remove them from the drying wheel a small volcano like mound has developed on the nose right in the center on where I presume it is seamed together. Same place on each blank. Only 3 out of 12 leaked but Ive got about 20 left and to see a good paint job lost due to this is discouraging. 

 

You can tell if the leak before you paint them.  Put them in a bucket of water overnight.  Then check for water in them.  I always seal them before I paint them either with E-Tex or a One Part Spray. E-Tex is better for the larger saltwater ones I do.  To me, I always assume that all my blanks leak and need to be tuned and I adjust my process to make them work.  I think it is unrealistic to assume all the bulk blanks will be perfect when paying less than $2 for them.  The high end one I get that I pay 3 to 5 for that another story.

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