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Is This A Good Airbrush? Also Got Q's On Molding.

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So I found a good deal on a Itawa eclipse bottle fed. What is the difference between gravity and bottle fed? pros cons? this one is used for around 80 (will probably talk them down) is this a good deal? comes with a little paint and some cleaner and a hose. If this is not a deal, what kinda deal do you recommend? I dont wanna buy a bottle fed and regret it wishing i had gotten a gravity fed. 

Also i found a paasche model one older i beleieve for 100 with a compresser. Is this a better deal? why? (i dont currently need a compresser but one down the road would be nice as i want to move the painting area and the current compresser isnt going anywhere.) 

Everyone probably knows me on my newer posting. I put in a huge order or LPO and expect to have a completed wood carving model at the end of the week. On this note I will start to like to experiment with molding. I have vistied the Alumalite website and whats the difference in their molding material? I have read an still dont understand which is best for making a possible swimbait mold, i saw they have many different strengths of mold. I want to read more but cannot find any other sites that sell molding product. so any recommendations? Or is that the best/ only one?? I have all my lure making stuff in later this week. so id like to put this order in ASAP so i can be ready to mold shortly after i am done carving. 

Sorry in ahead of time If I missed anything that could answer my own questions. Also does wood material matter on what woods you make a mold out of? I cannot for the life of me find what good material makes a HARD resin cast. something that can take abuse but not at the cost of action. Also in respects to that what paints paint this material very well? thanks all for reading any response is a good response! 

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I find a gravity fed air brush is easier to use, because it is lighter, and it's much easier to clean between colors.

I use a siphon fed Badger when I have a lot of baits to undercoat, or a big bait, because I can put a lot of paint in one of the bottles.  

If it's just one or two, I use my gravity fed air brush.

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I find a gravity fed air brush is easier to use, because it is lighter, and it's much easier to clean between colors.

I use a siphon fed Badger when I have a lot of baits to undercoat, or a big bait, because I can put a lot of paint in one of the bottles.  

If it's just one or two, I use my gravity fed air brush.

thats what im looking for. i would only be painting one at most 3 at a time. thanks again. 

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A gravity fed brush will also spray at lower pressure than a siphon fed brush. This comes into play when you need to hold the brush up close to the lure when painting details.

 

Ben

excellent i will skip the ita and try and look for a good grav fed gun. does compresser matter or as long as it provides the psi i need its all good? thanks guys 

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I agree with much of the posts about siphon and lager cups. I've have or used both. If you are not painting many baits you will be happy with the smaller cup. Give some thought about the needle size to. I'm like Woodie, don't go so small that you are restricted or so large that you can't hold a line. For me I like .30-.35 mm for general painting.

Good luck,

Dale

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Alumilite makes good products, but they make ALOT of products!!!... I'd recommend looking up Larry Dahlberg on YouTube, he has a ton of informative videos on the best Alumilite products for lure making

I use the amazing white casting resin.. Good choice for beginners, easy to use and no problems with bubbles

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I have a .2mm Iwata HP and a .3 mm Iwata Revolution BR. Of the two, I much prefer the Revolution for 95% of my crankbait painting. It's also the least expensive of the pro range Iwatas, at around $90. Easy to use, just squirt a little paint in the small cup and clean up between colors with a spray bottle of water.

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For the compressor part of your question, I use a 3 hp const. compressor with a big air tank.  It was on sale at Sears, back in the 70's, and it's still going strong.  I added some compressor oil to the reservoir tank when it was new, and that seems to have prevented the tank from rusting out.

I use a combination pressure regulator and moisture trap in front of my air brush hose connection, so it's easy to adjust the air pressure if I want to.  I leave it at 35 psi, and use an Iwata inline micro air valve to cut the pressure down while I'm painting.

The brand of const. compressor isn't important.

Having enough air to keep constant pressure when you're painting is important.

If you don't have noise issues, you can use a cheap Harbor Freights compressor.

If noise is an issue, a dedicated air brush compressor will be much quieter.  For those compressors, quality is important, because they run constantly.  I've never owned one, so someone else here will have to give you advice on them.

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I use the same as Mark, very close to being exactly the same. I use it from air nailers to tires, so I ran a dedicated line for bait making. I have a Jet air grinder that I use some, which made me split the line. I brought the hard pipe just up to the leg of the work bench and I put in the last moisture trap and a regulator with a low pressure gauge with a large face that I can easily see. The increments are spaced out nicely because the gauge just goes up to 50 psi, I think. What?..... I never paint that high and my memory is shot. I normally around 10-20 psi except for primer. :)

Like Mark stated, it's not the compress size but the constant amount of pressure. Just want you to know paint doesn't like water or oil either.

Later,

Dale

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