What am I doing wrong?

[hoffbossn]

Topic switch for a second... im using a man o war marine wood varnish is this good for making a seal with the lure? I wore a charcoal respirator [i think it is its a pretty heavy duty respirator.] But i could still smell what i was doing through the mask... how many brain cells did i just lose and how do i do this right? I was doing it in a semi ventilated garage and just dipped the lure in the paint and then let it drip dry pic is a popper i am.working on to just practice screwing in hardware.

 

[SW Lures]

There is other products that you can use for sealing that is safer then  what you are using I believe. I use a minwax product, wood sealer/hardener. It's thin enough not build up or get to heavy. Others here use different products.

The respirator may not be catching the sealers vapors as much as you think. All filters are not equal, charcoal or not. Check out the filters spec.'s and your product. You are just dipping and letting it set so there's not to much flying around in the air. It's your call and checking it out.

After you get the hardware in, you know where you are going from here with the bait right? I suggest making a few more baits, for a few reasons.  1) incase you don't get it right the first time, 2) I keep the first one that I get right for a visual reference in the future. These are just sealed with ballast locations and size of ballast. You can see some hanging on the picture in the thread I started in my duplicator & shop. Testing would be next. Remember what BobP told me; trolling is a different animal then casting and retrieving. I say this because you made a comment of muskies. Knowing a lot of people like trolling for them.

Dale

[hoffbossn]

yes, I really am excited to get this popper in the water! Ya and this seal has so far taken 8 hours and not even dried yet! thank you I will have to purchase a different solution. i really like my dip and dry method. IF i leave the lure upside down like that then let dry dip again and flip it and let dry, it will cure nicely as both side will have a even coat? And wehre can I get the best bang for my buck on a lure turner? and let me get this straight I seal the lure, Prime, Paint, and top coat? thanks all again.

[mark poulson]

If you can smell it, the respirator isn't doing it's job.

Use a respirator that's designed to filter paint fumes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Large-Paint-Project-Respirator-6311PA1-A/100195886

This kit has everything you need, including the 6001 filter for paint fumes.

 

[stretcher66]

check the member submitted  tutorial section for your lure turner.  they are quite simple to make and inexpensive.  i used a $10 disco ball motor and some all-thread mounted on 2x4's and it works great.  i have not really used it much since going to solarez , but works great for D2T .

[RayburnGuy]

Made my turner out of scrap plywood, a turntable motor out of a microwave that came out of a scrap bin, a piece of all thread, a couple hex nuts and some open screw eyes. Cost me exactly $0.00 and it's been going for 6 1/2 years.

 

Ben

[Travis]

Lure turners definitely an area for guys to do a little DIY.  i went the  rotisserie grill router as didn't need any disassembly.    

[hoffbossn]

Nice, will check these out. Well Merry Christmas all at TU. Well im 6:34  late eh whatevs  

Guess what this guy got for Xmas? a wood lathe! the bigger one too! and some tools. woooooot so stoked. Will be inquiring soon as to make the round concave dome  shape on the poppers head. 

At work for another 7 hours and 24 minutes but whose counting?
So will be searching for videos soon to make my own blanks. if anyone  knows something off the top of their head that wouldbe cool  

Cant wait to trick a bass on my lure.
I guess I am making this forum posting a little update thread/question/story?
Also I am even putting an addition to structure in the backyard a potential little shed work area (my area now reminds you of a harry potter situation.)

Im s ure ill chime in here again sometime today. And of course thank you all so much for your continued support. 
I havent tried the V-cut yet, gonna try and skill up my lathe abilitys and be able to make the blanks for the v cuts and then try them then. 
 
 

[hoffbossn]

I tested my popper! it works! Im using some old floro and it can walk the dog very well but this action is hard to achive. once you get it walking its good until it stops. I think by getting braid would Make it easier to get the action i want.

[mark poulson]

Take your time and do a lot of practice turning first.  Sharp tool, and keeping the tool rest close to the blank are keys to safety.  Too much space gives you the chance to have your tool catch and do a flip out of your hands.  Hopefully it hits the wall behind the lathe, and not you.

[mark poulson]

1 minute ago, hoffbossn said:

I tested my popper! it works! Im using some old floro and it can walk the dog very well but this action is hard to achive. once you get it walking its good until it stops. I think by getting braid would Make it easier to get the action i want.

Try using mono on your poppers and top waters, because fluoro sinks and pulls down the nose of the baits, which makes them harder to work.

[mark poulson]

And get long handled tools.  Leverage is really important.

[hoffbossn]

Thank you Mark, I have real all your comments, my father got me some tools and they are quite long. Look pretty decent but i have always been bad at sharpening blades, these look extra difficult. 

[hoffbossn]

I will have to try mono ASAP. and what do you think of my weight placemnet  on the popper? necessary? If I ziptie another to the back the tail sinks at stop and the lure goes vertical. 

[mark poulson]

Keeping your turning tools sharp is a very important skill to learn.

I don't want my poppers to hang straight down.  I find that a popper that hangs straight down doesn't present the belly as a belly.   I try and  use a success commercial popper of the same size to determine the angle I want.

Generally speaking, the longer/heavier the popper, the closer to level at rest I make them, because a heavier popper is harder to get up and popping/walking.  But I want them all to be at least a little tail heavy.  

A popper that rests level will not pop as well, because it won't trap as much water on the pop/pull.   I try to get a bloop, bloop from my poppers, because I think the lower pitch of the bloop travels farther in the water, so it calls fish from farther away.

 

[Travis]

Plenty of good books on turning and highly recommend looking at a few of them.   Not for sure how much experience you have with turning but few basics to start out with.  

• Always stand out of the line of fire when turning the lathe on.  So off to the side when you turn it on.  If variable speed start slower and then turn it up to proper speed.  With spindle turning (lures fall into this category) you are looking at high RPMs.

ABC

• Anchor the cutting tool to the tool rest.
• Bevel: rest the bevel onto the piece to be cut.
• Cut:  bring the cutting edge into proper position

With the typical "cigar" shaped baits turned on lathe you will start with a rectangular blank.  You will rough the blank to round using typically a spindle roughing gouge.  Once you get into turning and improve skills you can use a spindle gouge or skew also.  Once round lay out generic length of lure with a pencil or parting tool.  You want to turn and progress from high spots to low spots with your spindle gouge (easiest for beginners) but many eventually end up using the skew as easy to get very finish worthy lure without sanding. After you turn the lure shape (sand if needed) I would seal while still on the lathe.  Shellac or super glue very easy to apply at lower speed and get a smooth coat that dries very quickly (use paper towels to apply).  Paper towels are safer for a few reasons... one the easily tare so if somehow you get  it wrapped onto the spindle won't drag you into the piece.   Also superglue and cloth (cotton) and other natural materials can generate enough heat to ignite (plenty of videos out there if you want to check it out).   Once sealed you can either use a parting tool to remove the lure or fine kerf saw to saw it off while on the late (turned off at first and with experience can saw with it turning).  

If ends left square you can remove the turned lure and drill holes for weight, eye recesses, etc.. easier then remove the ends. 

Sharpening a must learn skill.  A slow grinding wheel and jigs (handmade or bought) will help get repeatable/sharp tools.   If you have a Woodcraft near by they often have a learn to turn class that is kept small 3 to 4 guys and will cover all the basics and have you turn a few simple projects to boot.  

. 

[hoffbossn]

6 minutes ago, Travis said:

Plenty of good books on turning and highly recommend looking at a few of them.   Not for sure how much experience you have with turning but few basics to start out with.  

• Always stand out of the line of fire when turning the lathe on.  So off to the side when you turn it on.  If variable speed start slower and then turn it up to proper speed.  With spindle turning (lures fall into this category) you are looking at high RPMs.

ABC

• Anchor the cutting tool to the tool rest.
• Bevel: rest the bevel onto the piece to be cut.
• Cut:  bring the cutting edge into proper position

With the typical "cigar" shaped baits turned on lathe you will start with a rectangular blank.  You will rough the blank to round using typically a spindle roughing gouge.  Once you get into turning and improve skills you can use a spindle gouge or skew also.  Once round lay out generic length of lure with a pencil or parting tool.  You want to turn and progress from high spots to low spots with your spindle gouge (easiest for beginners) but many eventually end up using the skew as easy to get very finish worthy lure without sanding. After you turn the lure shape (sand if needed) I would seal while still on the lathe.  Shellac or super glue very easy to apply at lower speed and get a smooth coat that dries very quickly (use paper towels to apply).  Paper towels are safer for a few reasons... one the easily tare so if somehow you get  it wrapped onto the spindle won't drag you into the piece.   Also superglue and cloth (cotton) and other natural materials can generate enough heat to ignite (plenty of videos out there if you want to check it out).   Once sealed you can either use a parting tool to remove the lure or fine kerf saw to saw it off while on the late (turned off at first and with experience can saw with it turning).  

If ends left square you can remove the turned lure and drill holes for weight, eye recesses, etc.. easier then remove the ends. 

Sharpening a must learn skill.  A slow grinding wheel and jigs (handmade or bought) will help get repeatable/sharp tools.   If you have a Woodcraft near by they often have a learn to turn class that is kept small 3 to 4 guys and will cover all the basics and have you turn a few simple projects to boot.  

. 

Thanks for the tutorial. IM so excited work is slow so im gettinsent home early!! how amazing. Gonna set up my tool and play around a bit

[mark poulson]

 Last thing.  Never try to engage your tool without having firmly resting on the tool rest.  There is no safe way to freehand a tool when you're turning.

You can freehand a piece of sand paper, if you're careful, but never a rigid tool.

[SW Lures]

If you have the resources, I highly recommend a class. I like the Woodcrafter's near me. Been there for a few classes myself.

If not always have extreme respect for any machine and read or check out YouTube.

Dale

[RayburnGuy]

I've never turned a piece of wood in my life, but have used metal lathes and one thing to remember is to NEVER wear loose fitting clothing that could get wrapped up in your turning.

I had to unwrap a friend of mines hand from a magnetic drill one time and it was not a pretty site.

 

Ben

[ron g]

McMaster-Carr has stainless steel screw eyes. Fast shipping , if I order by 10am I have it at my door by 2pm the next day standard shipping. https://www.mcmaster.com/#screw-eyes/=15n0jcc

[SW Lures]

Nice one Ben very good advice.  I got another for a lathe that doesn't have a lot of weight. When I bought my first lathe long ago. It was on a light weight stand and it was not a varible speed. I also had the pulley's set up for high speed. 

I thought I had the center of the piece of wood, but oh....no I didn't! To cut to the chase, I didn't know whether to run or to do something. The lathe was chasing me till it ran out of cord. The cord wasn't long thank goodness.

Just a little advice from the school of Hard Knocks.  

All this talk about a lathe has got me thinking about looking for a mini again.

Dale

[mark poulson]

2 hours ago, RayburnGuy said:

I've never turned a piece of wood in my life, but have used metal lathes and one thing to remember is to NEVER wear loose fitting clothing that could get wrapped up in your turning.

I had to unwrap a friend of mines hand from a magnetic drill one time and it was not a pretty site.

 

Ben

 

Hahaha...brings back memories of driving a co-worker to the ER when he bent down to see his magnetic drill's bit come through the steel plate he was drill, and wound up catching his sleeve in the drill.  

I still remember Danny Stillian from HS metal shop.  He would come in early, put the chuck key in the big lathe's jaw, and then turn it on, to see the key fly across the room.  By then end of the semester there was a dent pattern all across the ceiling, and he never got caught.  The building was so old I thing the teacher never even noticed.  The rest of the class all did, and made a point of not being in the shop early when he was.

The point to all this is a lathe, and any power tool for that matter, is dangerous, and demands respect, or it will exact a price in flesh.

[Travis]

Good point Dale.  Weight always helps with a lathe especially when turning larger material that are not balanced.  Having the lathe firmly attached to the table helps along with weight in the table.  I built my lathe stand a put a false bottom in it and filled it with sand.  So most of the cavity behind the 2x6 base is filled.   Makes a difference when you put a 12 inch blank that isn't perfectly round on it.   Shouldn't be an issue with lures however.The lathe also has variable speed so I can dial it up until just starts show instability and quickly knock it down to round before cranking it up some  more if needed.

Some guys drape sand bags over the base of the stand if open metal stand or have seen piece of plywood put across the base of the stand and sand stacked, cinder blocks, etc.. for added weight. 

Edited December 26, 2016 by Travis

[mark poulson]

That's a beautiful stand!