slammer wake lure

[gliders]

Don't want to hijack another post, been toying with idea of making something along those lines for nighttime pike. Can someone tell me , is the slammer lathe turned ? Or does it have compound curves ? In other words is it round in cross section front to back ? Thanks....glider.

Edited December 9, 2016 by gliders

[mark poulson]

Yes, it is lathe turned, round, and then the details are added.

I have one down in my boat and I'll try to remember to check it later today.

[gliders]

Thanks mark, appreciated. 

[jigginpig]

Yeah, build it yourself. The standard way to get one is to buy five or six, see which ones swim right, then e-bay the duds to re-coup $$$ lost. It is a love/hate deal. 

I got into building big baits because I looked at the thing and said "I can do that!" 

Mike seems like a good guy,  the Slammer is a great lure, but there are a large number of duds due to the "folksy" way the bait is made. Making all the cuts while the stock is still square helps the finished product swim better, imo. 

 

[gliders]

Thanks jp, so it is round cross section ,lathe turned?  Been toying with something similar i can turn on lathe.

[jonister]

We need to find those massive screw eyes though.

[jigginpig]

The massive screw eyes are gate hardware. Muskie screw eyes work just as good, but if you are going to make a dead-nuts copy you can just use gate hardware. They are the latch kits. You may need to modify them to mate them up. 

http://www.shed-doors.com/Pictures/Gate-HooK.jpg

 

Edited December 10, 2016 by jigginpig

[surfk9]

wow jiginpig we've been trying to locate something similar for that for some time...thanks will have to check it out...michel

[mark poulson]

On 12/9/2016 at 1:36 PM, gliders said:

Thanks mark, appreciated. 

Gliders,

The entire bait is shaped on the lathe.  The tail slot, hinge joints, and lip slot are all cut on a table saw, with jigs for orientation.  The eye sockets are drilled.  I'm guessing it's done on a drill press, again using some kind of a jig for orientation.  The screw eye hinge has to be put together before it's installed in the lure, because it is too heavy a gauge to be able to close one side after it's installed.  They probably used epoxy to install the eyes in predrilled holes.

 

[jonister]

Jigginpig are you referring to just the screw eyes, or that middle piece too? I posted in another post where I found the giant screw eyes at Lowe's. Those gate things we're right next to them too! 

[jonister]

Oh along those lines, you can get them without the piece in the middle, they come in 40 packs. I think I payed 8:40$ for 2 different sized packs yesterday. I had to use a vice and some big pliers to get them open to join 2 together for a joint. they are crazy strong! There is no way you could safely open/close these things while they are in a lure. It must be done ahead of time. 

[gliders]

Thanks mark, all good info,don't want to copy exactly, more the general design. I would imagine being round and cedar,and from pics I've seen both sides probably have ballast to sit evenly down on surface and aid stability on retrieve ? regarding screw eye's I'm assuming there so big to allow free action rather than strength, if so i think I'll make them from stainless.    Appreciated. ....glider

[mark poulson]

I think he used what he could find at the time for screw eyes.  Remember, this bait has been around a long time, and a lot more hardware choices are available now than back then when it was first made.

Edited December 11, 2016 by mark poulson

[jigginpig]

Ballast, Gliders? You overthink it!There is no ballast in one of those things apart from the hooks. 

 

[jigginpig]

4 hours ago, jonister said:

 ...There is no way you could safely open/close these things while they are in a lure. It must be done ahead of time. 

Yes, it is better and safer to mate them up outside the lure! I found it is easy to open them with a side-cutter (dykes) by putting the cutting edge into the small gap where the eye is formed. You give a squeeze, and the gap is opened. You can then use the inside edge of the side cutter to pry open the eye further. This trick works with any screw eye that has not been welded, and I even use it to open the eye of hooks (after annealing) to add a solid ring (for different rigging options.) You have to re-temper the hook eye after you close it if you anneal it, or it will possibly fail. 

Thanks for the tip on the bulk option, I have never found them that way. 

 

Cheers! 

SS

 

[gliders]

Only seen pics of one  jp, seemed to be  sitting down on surface, so just hooks and hardware enough ? Like i say, i am just looking at the idea of a similar,turned,two section waking lure . Surprised it doesn't lose stability or roll. I'll give it a shot ,cheers......glider

[jigginpig]

Hey Gliders, yeah, just the hardware. No additional weight or ballast. They are totally round in cross section, so that is all it takes. 

And yeah, sorry I didn't see it earlier, that hook is just waste if you buy the gate hardware. 

SS

[mark poulson]

6 hours ago, jigginpig said:

Hey Gliders, yeah, just the hardware. No additional weight or ballast. They are totally round in cross section, so that is all it takes. 

And yeah, sorry I didn't see it earlier, that hook is just waste if you buy the gate hardware. 

SS

 

You can always sell the hooks on Craig's List.   Hahaha

[hoffbossn]

On 12/11/2016 at 0:54 PM, jigginpig said:

Yes, it is better and safer to mate them up outside the lure! I found it is easy to open them with a side-cutter (dykes) by putting the cutting edge into the small gap where the eye is formed. You give a squeeze, and the gap is opened. You can then use the inside edge of the side cutter to pry open the eye further. This trick works with any screw eye that has not been welded, and I even use it to open the eye of hooks (after annealing) to add a solid ring (for different rigging options.) You have to re-temper the hook eye after you close it if you anneal it, or it will possibly fail. 

Thanks for the tip on the bulk option, I have never found them that way. 

 

Cheers! 

SS

 

Hits it on the dot here. M y fathers a metal worker and this is exactly what he said to do, also i found them in home depot. stainless as well and in a variety of sizes. I believe i went with the size 206. I recieve some blanks here later this week. My biggest fear is making the angled cut in the lure. JP we should meet up man I am only an hour north of you. 

[surfk9]

Gentlemen been to Home Depot looking for these screws (nearest Lowes is 40 miles one way) not sure i'm looking @ the correct product...is this what we're talking about??

Jonister i tried to locate the post you referred to about posting where/ type @ Lowe's with no luck...

[mark poulson]

On 12/12/2016 at 6:20 PM, hoffbossn said:

Hits it on the dot here. M y fathers a metal worker and this is exactly what he said to do, also i found them in home depot. stainless as well and in a variety of sizes. I believe i went with the size 206. I recieve some blanks here later this week. My biggest fear is making the angled cut in the lure. JP we should meet up man I am only an hour north of you. 

If you make a three sided wooden miter box that it just wider than your dowel stock, lay out the angles of the cuts on the miter box sides carefully with a try square, and cut each side slowly with a sharp stiff backed saw, you should be able to cut your lip slots accurately each time.

 An alternative is to use a table saw with a clamping miter fence.

Either way, mark you blank with a center line before you shape it, orient it so the lip slot is square to the center line when you cut it, and drill pilot holes for you hardware along the center line, so everything is square to the center line and still lines up once you've turned the shape on the lathe.

[jigginpig]

My method is to shape the bait on the lathe, then BEFORE YOU CUT THE SQUARE STOCK ON THE ENDS OFF, go ahead and make the cuts for the sides and bill with the table saw. Easy, clean, repeatable. You can keep one blank with the cuts made in it as a gauge to set the angles for the cuts if you don't have a miter gauge for your saw. Just mate the saw blade to the kerf in the stock and adjust the angle of the blade until the stock is flat against the surface of the saw. This method in not at all required, but if you like to be a little OCD about things, it ensures baits will be more uniform. 

SS

[jigginpig]

Obviously, you don't cut all the way through the stock with the table saw, and have to finish the cut by hand. A pull cut razor/dowel saw works very well for that step. 

[hoffbossn]

33 minutes ago, jigginpig said:

My method is to shape the bait on the lathe, then BEFORE YOU CUT THE SQUARE STOCK ON THE ENDS OFF, go ahead and make the cuts for the sides and bill with the table saw. Easy, clean, repeatable. You can keep one blank with the cuts made in it as a gauge to set the angles for the cuts if you don't have a miter gauge for your saw. Just mate the saw blade to the kerf in the stock and adjust the angle of the blade until the stock is flat against the surface of the saw. This method in not at all required, but if you like to be a little OCD about things, it ensures baits will be more uniform. 

SS

wow,. beautful lures jiggin my buddy just told me waht ur screen name ment the other day. you must be a seasoned vet. man  I will be calling you soon I held off on the slammer and am trying to make some ez poppers. just practicing pluggin in the hardware all that fun stuff... keep your phone on your buddy... lol what kinda lathe you got? i got $100 around i can spend on one. seems like a must have cuz some of the blanks i got from LPO are NOT nice! 

[hoffbossn]

3 hours ago, mark poulson said:

If you make a three sided wooden miter box that it just wider than your dowel stock, lay out the angles of the cuts on the miter box sides carefully with a try square, and cut each side slowly with a sharp stiff backed saw, you should be able to cut your lip slots accurately each time.

 An alternative is to use a table saw with a clamping miter fence.

Either way, mark you blank with a center line before you shape it, orient it so the lip slot is square to the center line when you cut it, and drill pilot holes for you hardware along the center line, so everything is square to the center line and still lines up once you've turned the shape on the lathe.

exactly. i will be going with the Miter box route. I have all the tools just need to know how... I would almost rather have the know how instead of all the tools :/ 
i started making lures to be theraputic and save money.... so far im about $400 down and dont have ANYTHING decent to show for it LOL! but it will come in time...