Glide Baits? Lipless subsurface lures.

[MarkNY]

I'm curious how glide baits or subsurface lipless baits get their action? I'd describe it as a subsurface walk the dog action. I've never fished one or handled one. How are they constructed in order to get that action? Ballast in front and rear of bait? Thin but tall profile?  Would like to hear how these baits work. Thanks, Mark

[mark poulson]

There was a long thread about this several years ago, but I can't find it with the Search feature anymore.

I found that there are several things that are really important.  

First, keeping the two sections pretty close to the same length.

Second, bottom weighting both sections so they fall truly level, and at exactly the same rate.

Third, having really free moving hinges.

Fourth, for me, having a relatively flat sided bait.

Fifth, having a slow sink overall, so you can work the bait at slow speeds without it sinking too deep.

These things were passed to me by other members here at TU, and they work.

When I wanted to make a glide bait, I bought an S Swimmer, to give me a better idea of what to shoot for.

Edited January 18, 2017 by mark poulson

[MarkNY]

Thanks Mark. I guess I was picturing a one piece bait, not a jointed lure. Sounds like both would work with this style. Have to try it sometime. Mark 

[mark poulson]

1 hour ago, MarkNY said:

Thanks Mark. I guess I was picturing a one piece bait, not a jointed lure. Sounds like both would work with this style. Have to try it sometime. Mark 

 

I think you may get more responses if you post the question as One Piece Glide Baits.

I know people here at TU have been making one piece glide baits for a long time, and I even tried to make one, years ago, but I found it was too hard for me.  

In general terms, a walk the dog bait has more ballast toward the rear, so the inertia of the heavier rear end will keep going while the lighter front end begins to slow, and the faster moving rear turns the bait.  That's how topwater walkers work.

 

Edited January 18, 2017 by mark poulson

[MarkNY]

Thanks Mark!

[spoonpluggergino]

Hello MarkNY

I build lots of glide baits and most of the really good stuff I learned it on this site. I use PVC deck board and it works really good, but because I make this for muskie fishing I use hard wood dowel pins for the tow line and hooks, most muskie guys builders use hard wood like maple, oak, beech and a all bunch of other hard wood. What it makes the bait glide is the placement of the lead in the belie of the baits, for example on a 8 inch bait I will install lead at about 1.5 inches from the front and the second lead about 2 inches from the back and it can vary. Initially when I start to weight a bait I will have all my hardware installed than I put the bait in a vertical beaker full of water than I start hanging lead from one the tail hooks until the bait starts very slowly start to sink at that point I know how much lead I need and it's a matter how fast you want to sink, for me I like really slow sinker, once the total ballast is known now I use the kitchen sink to distribute the lead at the two belie holes where the bait is sinking level, you can also use a large clear plastic bin if you need more depth.  Another tip you can make lead molds out of hard wood to pour the lead that you need for each hole, than insert them in the bait. Once you get started you get all kinds of ideas to lead the baits, I made bunch of different lead baits with a wire hangar from a few grams to 20 grams and I use these lead weights to figure out the amount of lead that I need for a particular bait, note the vertical beaker it's almost a must,  I have two the bigger is 3 inch by 21 inches tall. Here is a website that has a nice page on building baits including glide baits, the site name   bustingbass .com

Hope this helps, if you have any question I will be glad to help

Gino

[fatfingers]

"Glidebait" is a term used VERY loosely in the world of building. It can refer to a number of profiles/styles and it variety of actions. "Jerk bait" is another term that means different things at times, especially among musky guys versus bass guys  

In the musky kingdom of baits, not all baits are created equally when referring to action which consistently triggers strikes, although a variety of weighting can trigger fish occasionally.

Some of the stuff I see posted in video form on Facebook shows a bait that will "run" but it is almost the antithesis of the action I have found most effective.

[Anglinarcher]

On ‎1‎/‎17‎/‎2017 at 4:01 PM, MarkNY said:

I'm curious how glide baits or subsurface lipless baits get their action? I'd describe it as a subsurface walk the dog action. I've never fished one or handled one. How are they constructed in order to get that action? Ballast in front and rear of bait? Thin but tall profile?  Would like to hear how these baits work. Thanks, Mark

Larry Dahlberg has a YouTube video on control surfaces, balance, buoyancy, etc., that would help you a lot.  It is also on the Makelure.com site and the Alumilite site.

Start with a torpedo shape.  The balance point should cause the lure to over correct a little on each jerk to go left and right, but not be so much as to stop the "glide". 

I find a balance point a little front of the center of buoyancy, a buoyancy just dense enough to cause a slow sink, a profile like a torpedo or slightly taller then wider. 

It is not that hard, and you can always buy a Dahlberg glider from River 2 Sea and use it as a guide.  My slow sinking glider that I got from them thought me tons.

[Anglinarcher]

http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html

I have included another site from Europe that might help you.  Does not give any theory, but lots of recipes.  Great stuff.

[mark poulson]

2 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

Larry Dahlberg has a YouTube video on control surfaces, balance, buoyancy, etc., that would help you a lot.  It is also on the Makelure.com site and the Alumilite site.

Start with a torpedo shape.  The balance point should cause the lure to over correct a little on each jerk to go left and right, but not be so much as to stop the "glide". 

I find a balance point a little front of the center of buoyancy, a buoyancy just dense enough to cause a slow sink, a profile like a torpedo or slightly taller then wider. 

It is not that hard, and you can always buy a Dahlberg glider from River 2 Sea and use it as a guide.  My slow sinking glider that I got from them thought me tons.

I just watched the Larry Dahlberg videos.  Again.

That guy is sure clever!

Thanks for the link, and the reminder.