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redneckninji20

Hollow body swimbaits

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Haven't really found much on the topic. All the ones I have seen were old posts that ended up in a pissing match. Anyways I just ordered the ultramolds 5" and wondering if anyone has experience and what they think about it.

Also if there are any larger 6-8" models floating around if all goes well with this I definetly want to go bigger 

thanks for the help

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Thanks Mike. Those look good! Do you think two inserts can be used at a time? I'm sure they'll swim the same. I can tell the tail is a little thicker as well. 

Frank meaning dipped starting out as a piece of metal and just keep dipping till the desired size? ( as in the video you have up from awhile ago. I just watched that the other night lol)  Or injected painted then dipped? That video is what made me pull the trigger on that mold ha

Edited by redneckninji20
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Dipped from a piece of sheet metal shaped like a fish. Dip till you get close to what you want then paint the back or anything you want add eyes and do a final dip. You can make your own blades out of butter knifes and for a tail a spinner blade soldered to it for a tail. Butter knife was mentioned just  because it is easy to get. 

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59 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

Frank, don't you have a video on dipping those swimbaits?

Yes I do, I think he said he watched it. And yes the tail could tear if you get real deep in the belly section. Just follow the basic shape of the basstrix and it will work out fine. 

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Those are awesome, I have that old, need to get more insert as I I have just one

i had to rub the insert with fine sandpaper to get it super smooth and adding worm oil help a ton, I blow air in the opening to be able to get the bait off the insert easier

l love your baits, great job on airbrushing them, that is my next step on my learning curve, airbrushing plastics

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Thanks guys! Can't wait to get em out on the water tomorrow. Airbrushing is frustrating at least for me lol I bought the spike it colors or whatever the other brand on their site is and they don't work for me. I hate reducing and want a color that I can just pour and spray. I have some colors that don't work but the main colors I'll be using which are these ones shown work good and they are createx paints that I had from painting hardbaits. 

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On 2/10/2017 at 2:52 PM, redneckninji20 said:

Thanks guys! Can't wait to get em out on the water tomorrow. Airbrushing is frustrating at least for me lol I bought the spike it colors or whatever the other brand on their site is and they don't work for me. I hate reducing and want a color that I can just pour and spray. I have some colors that don't work but the main colors I'll be using which are these ones shown work good and they are createx paints that I had from painting hardbaits. 

Could. You please explain the problems you are having with the Spikeit colors. Sounds like you bought the water based ones but there are plenty of people that use them here so help is here if you want it. Please include what air brush you are using and the tip size. 

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I have a bunch of Createx and to get colors to run through an airbrush you have to reduce them. It's just the nature of the airbrushes. They have very small passage ways and the tips are usually .035 and smaller to get any detail. This is a copy and paste right out of their " How To" guide.

Spray Gun Tip Size: Operate @ 40 PSI. 1.2mm: Touch-Up Gun: 0.8mm 1.0mm tip-size. Pressure settings may vary. Adjust fluid-adjustment knob for optimum atomization. Airbrush Tip Size: 0.5mm: @ 40-50+ PSI; 0.35m and smaller operate at lower PSI settings and reduce paint to desired viscosity best to atomize particular color with particular airbrush type and tip size. Reduced paint generally has viscosity of milk. 

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I'm using an iwata eclipse hp-bc I think. It's not mine so I have no clue what the specs are on it. It just doesn't spray some colors I have to hold my thumb over the cup to get it to spray. Sometimes it just doesn't spray color and then I release the trigger and it shoots a glob out.

I know they need to be reduced I just haven't that part down. I either don't reduce enough or reduce too much. And I don't paint enough to pour exact amounts out to log what I did to get it right. 

I have some colors I can shake well enough and pour in the airbrush and shoots good. But I have to break it down and clean the airbrush between colors for it to work

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On 2/12/2017 at 1:54 PM, Apdriver said:

I have a bunch of Createx and to get colors to run through an airbrush you have to reduce them. It's just the nature of the airbrushes. They have very small passage ways and the tips are usually .035 and smaller to get any detail. This is a copy and paste right out of their " How To" guide.

Spray Gun Tip Size: Operate @ 40 PSI. 1.2mm: Touch-Up Gun: 0.8mm 1.0mm tip-size. Pressure settings may vary. Adjust fluid-adjustment knob for optimum atomization. Airbrush Tip Size: 0.5mm: @ 40-50+ PSI; 0.35m and smaller operate at lower PSI settings and reduce paint to desired viscosity best to atomize particular color with particular airbrush type and tip size. Reduced paint generally has viscosity of milk. 

That could be my issue. For some reason if I remember correctly I saw 15 psi lol. Im running like 20-25 psi. Next time I do some painting I'll bump it up and see if that helps any 

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I think you need to reduce your Createx up to 50/50 and I like to use the 4012 High Performance reducer. The guide says you need to run at a lower pressure if using an airbrush with .35mm tip and smaller. I have seen 15 lbs. also and that's where I run my Iawata HP also. It has a .35mm tip and lays down Createx well at this pressure but I do reduce it with the 4012 reducer to the consistency of milk. One thing I have found is multiple light coats are best and their guidance says the same. If you heat set with a heat gun between coats it goes pretty quick.  Another thing is the Wicked Pearl colors really have to be reduced a bunch. They come out of the bottle the consistency of a thick mustard and there's no way to spray them without reduction. 

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If I want to paint for a long time I use an air brush with a .8 tip. This is big enough to never have a clogging problem but when the needle is open all the way it is like a hose.  You won't have to reduce most colors but they will look Dottie and not smooth. If it looks like that you need to reduce it. Most people don't use anything close to that size needle but it works for me. 

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