110's

[MonteSS]

What combo of hooks and splits + clear do y'all use to get a 110 to suspend or rise slowly. I guess brand matters too. ty

[21xdc]

This is the best write up I have seen>>> http://www.predatorbassbaits.com/Suspending_110_info.html

http://www.predatorbassbaits.com/id69.html

 

[BobP]

I agree with 21xdc.  There are lots of sources for 110 knockoffs and Predator does a very good job in informing buyers how to match his baits with the right hardware.  That said, if you are doing many knockoff suspending baits, it's best to maintain a variety of trebles in different styles and wire diameters to get proper matches.  One brand and wire thickness won't work everywhere.  The Japanese originals typically use thin wire #6 Japanese trebles and size 1 split rings. 

[RayburnGuy]

Trying to make lures suspend will teach you patience if nothing else. If you think about it the difference in the amount of weight that makes a bait slowly sink or slowly rise is infinitely small. Change the temperature of the water a few degrees and we're right back to solving the whole equation all over again.

I've made the decision to use varying amounts of lead wire wrapped around the shank of the trebles to give me some leeway in making baits suspend. By setting the bait up to be a slow riser you can then wrap a small amount of lead wire around one, or more, trebles to adjust the flotation. You can also change the attitude of the bait to sit level, head, or tail, down by choosing different hooks to wrap the lead wire to.

The lead wire I'm talking about is the stuff that fly fishermen use. It can be found at Bass Pro, Cabelas, fly tying shops, etc.

hope this helps,

Ben

[mark poulson]

I try for a slow rise in cold water when I build/paint.  I'm pretty sure it will suspend in warmer water.

Then I use my choice of line, either mono to help rise more, or fluoro to get it to suspend or slow sink, and line size matters, too. 

For me that makes on the water adjustments much easier.