Best drill bit for boring plug belly weight?

[stumpjumper16]

I've recently had a couple of baits get chewed up/ broken while boring the plug belly hole. I am currently using a dewalt drill bit, but thought about purchasing a Forstner bit; any input is appreciated. 

[woodieb8]

we use forstner bits every day. there better then a countersing or drill bits. you get a nice even bore hole.

[bassmaster7938]

I use forstner bits too

[clemmy]

Forster bit x3

 

If I had to do something else, I'd likely look at brad point bits.

[mark poulson]

And coating the area you're going to drill with runny super glue first will keep tearout to a minimum.

 

[gliders]

Forstner bit,failing that ,a decent brad point bit.

[stumpjumper16]

Thanks guys I think I will order a Forstner bit

[Mr.t]

May try a finishing end mill ,one with 4 flutes would cut smooth, but for the cost probably better off with the forstner, speed of drilling could be an issue,I know with metal the smaller the drill bit the faster the rpm needs to be,large bits the rpm's need to be slower, pre drill your hole with a smaller diameter first ,If your finished hole is 1/4 " go in first with 1/8" it might help ,get a scrap piece of whatever material you use and experiment!  

[RayburnGuy]

If your using a soft wood like balsa then Mark's suggestion of using runny super glue is a good one. I use balsa for all my shallow cranks and give the entire body a coating of super glue after the shaping is done. This gives it a hard "shell" as the runny super glue will soak into the wood just a bit.

When starting the hole for a belly weight I use a brad point bit and run it in reverse until the hole is about 1/16" to 1/8" deep. This eliminates tear out since the bit won't catch the wood fibers when running in reverse. Once you get the hole started you can switch the drill into forward and finish drilling the hole. 

Ben

[Travis]

Forstner bit works very well especially if you keep them sharp.   A quality brad point bit also will do very well.  I have never had any issues with balsa tear out and a good sharp brad point bit.   

I can't emphasis using quality products it is night and day difference.  You are saving money on not buying hard baits use some of that savings to invest in quality tools and you won't be disappointed.

I have been very pleased with the Lee Valley Brad Point bits and cursed myself for all the big box store ones I bought prior.  The same goes for Forstner bits.  Famag and Colt have been two I have went to recently.

[BigPete]

I use forstner bits but I run them in reverse to cut the surface of the timber first then go forward helps reduce tear out.

 

Big-Pete

[SW Lures]

I read everyone's comments and agree with all of them for sure. I had to read Marks and Bens post twice to make sure they didn't write this because they help me come up with this.

Once I have made my master and I know where the ballast, lip/bib, tow eye and hangers are going to go and the block of wood is setting in front of me. I lay all my marks that is needed for the locations. However now I have a paper print of locations, angles, etc. and I wood glue these to the block of wood.

I do all of my drill holes down to about a 1/8", cuts completely. The holes are done on a press at this point. Keeps me drilling straight and I'll finish the holes by hand later. This includes joints. I weak glue them back together for shaping. Then I start to shape the blank. On really thin gliders or micro's no more tear/blow outs.  Once shaped I complete the drill holes.

Dale