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You can spray moisture cured urethane like KBS Diamond Coat or Dick Nite S81 through an airbrush.  Sometimes you need to thin it first.  And you need to check dispensing and storage procedures because it likes to harden in the storage container. Frankly, I prefer flood coating lures with a brush and hanging them up to drip dry because it's just as fast as spraying and there's no airbrush cleaning to do afterwards.  Some prefer dipping in KBS.  I use Dick Nite and don't recommend dipping in it due to its habit of hardening in the container.  The "tap the can" method of storage and dispensing Dick Nite is the way to go.  KBS is apparently not as sensitive to moisture curing/contamination in storage as Dick Nite.

Two part auto urethane is another option.  It is very toxic, so you need good protective measures if you go this route.  Actually, any topcoat containing a solvent should be sprayed only with a rated filter mask and proper ventilation.  That's a big reason that many of us prefer brushing or dipping.  Not to say those methods are proof against exposure either but an airbrush is guaranteed to load  aerosol particles into the air around you.

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  On 2/1/2017 at 4:36 PM, BobP said:

You can spray moisture cured urethane like KBS Diamond Coat or Dick Nite S81 through an airbrush.  Sometimes you need to thin it first.  And you need to check dispensing and storage procedures because it likes to harden in the storage container. Frankly, I prefer flood coating lures with a brush and hanging them up to drip dry because it's just as fast as spraying and there's no airbrush cleaning to do afterwards.  Some prefer dipping in KBS.  I use Dick Nite and don't recommend dipping in it due to its habit of hardening in the container.  The "tap the can" method of storage and dispensing Dick Nite is the way to go.  KBS is apparently not as sensitive to moisture curing/contamination in storage as Dick Nite.

Two part auto urethane is another option.  It is very toxic, so you need good protective measures if you go this route.  Actually, any topcoat containing a solvent should be sprayed only with a rated filter mask and proper ventilation.  That's a big reason that many of us prefer brushing or dipping.  Not to say those methods are proof against exposure either but an airbrush is guaranteed to load  aerosol particles into the air around you.

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Hahaha, alot of what you said is over my head and under my feet. I just got my feet wet I the lure gig, I currently use a two ton epoxy and  brushing it on with disposable kids brushes, the .99cent ones at wally world but after your advice it seems ill just sick with that I have a newborn and I dont think it wise to be spraying, at least not at the time until I can get a set up out side in a shed.

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I use both epoxy and MCU, just depending on the bait.  I like to use a flat square nylon bristle artist's brush with epoxy.  Applies it smoother and the finer bristles help to remove bubbles from mixing.  Clean it afterward with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol.  It lasts indefinitely and costs only a few bucks. 

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I think it's important NOT to rotate MCU coated lures while they dry.  If you do, a skin can form on the outside of the coating while remaining liquid underneath.  Under rotation, the liquid can then pool in one area of the bait and remain liquid long enough that its solvent can wrinkle and bubble your paint.  Better to apply the MCU and simply hang it up by the lip and let any excess MCU drip off the tail of the bait.

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