MarkNY Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 I normally base coat the bottom and top of the lure and then move on to stenciling in the gill plate etc. I heat set the base coats but I'm having a problem with the stencil sticking to the base coat and pulling up the paint. Even after quite a bit of time my paint is not dry enough, but I'm hesitant to just let my airbrush sit there and wait. I'm thinking I need to change the order in which I paint different areas. Any suggestions? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) I think you main issue is simply the paint is too thick. As you mentioned it isn't dry and based on the areas that pulled up and the horizontal line apparent thickness the heat setting likely just getting a skin to form. You would be better either letting it sit a day or use lighter coats. I don't think based on the appearance and it the mode of failure you have an issue with finger prints, layer incompatibility, etc... Edited February 7, 2017 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super Ron Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Mark, I assume it's the tape sticking? Anytime I stencil with tape, I do 2 things. It doesn't take any stickiness at all to put the tape on and stick to paint. So, I stick it to and pull it off my jeans 3 or 4 times before it touches the lure. And second; whenever a stencil is the next step, I walk away for an hour to let the paint dry even after multiple heat sets This works for me without fail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNY Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Travis, your right I think that white is a little thick. I had to put several layers on to get it to cover. Ron, I know it looks like it was from the tape in pic but it was from the stencil I used for the gill plate. I did have a little sticking from the tape before that so I will definitely use your tips to make the tape less stickier. I think it would help to have several lures in different stages so I can let a lure rest and dry if need be. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thickness definitely is as issue. Do lighter coats and hear set in between. Its a bit hard to tell in the picture but it looks like it's over foil? If so, adhesion may be an issue as well. clemmy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpalinsk Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 X3 on the thickness of the paint. What paint are you spraying? I mostly use Auto Air (and some Wicked) these days and haven't run into any issues using stencils, other than I struggle mightily making them! For a particular pattern, I use a set of 4 stencils, two for each side and they overlay each other. I generally spray the base coat, heat set and then let it sit for at least a couple of hours before proceeding. I can then spray, heat set, swap stencil, spray, heat set, flip and repeat. My biggest problem has been not making sure the paint on the stencil is dry and then getting smudges on the lure. Haven't had issues with the stencils lifting the paint. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikePaintsBaits Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) Mark Travis Is Correct , That White Is Way To Thick , As Well Clemmy , Do Lighter Coats & Heat Set In - Between. Edited February 8, 2017 by MikePaintsBaits 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Yep, remember what I stated in a thread that you created earlier. Low pressures as possible and light coats. Build on each layer till you get your effect. Scaling peeling back paint, finger prints are from being way to thick. Remember it's not a sprint to finish a paint job, its a marathon for someone new. Speed comes with time. Slow and thin. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Cleaning your stencil after each time you spray through it will keep paint from building up on it and this will help keep it from sticking as well. All it needs is a quick wipe with a damp paper towel to remove the overspray. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Stencil (aka frisket) material can be bought in different adhesive strengths. I had the same problem, bought a roll of frisket and found it lifted paint off the lure. Solution? I just stopped peeling the backing off the frisket and held it against the lure as I painted. This has two big advantages. I can wipe the paint off the stencil after shooting one side of the bait and simply flip it over to do the other side. That saves me 50% of the time I would otherwise spend making a left and right side stencil. Since I never took off the backing, the stencil can be saved and used many times. Now I have a box of stencils, a library if you will, that I can choose from and rarely need to cut a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNY Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Thanks guys. Lesson learned. I put too much paint on the belly too quickly. That is polytranspar super hide white over copper foil leaf. Adhesion doesn't seem to be an issue. I need to start removing my center lines from carving before I put a seal coat on. They seem to be difficult to cover up when painting. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 To be honest you have a good look to the scheme. You'll get it. Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNY Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 20 hours ago, DaleSW said: Yep, remember what I stated in a thread that you created earlier. Low pressures as possible and light coats. Build on each layer till you get your effect. Scaling peeling back paint, finger prints are from being way to thick. Remember it's not a sprint to finish a paint job, its a marathon for someone new. Speed comes with time. Slow and thin. Dale Hi dale, I do feel rushed when painting with an airbrush. I worry about paint drying up in the brush and it not functioning good after getting it set up good. I've had issues with that. I really like the polytranspar paint I've been using but it dries quick so I use a little retarder which helps. Createx isn't so bad.... I do have a jar of water that I can submerge the nozzle in when I set it down. I'm not in a real hurry to get the job done but just don't want to create issues with the airbrush by working too slow. I use tube oils for painting decoys and love being able to take all day blending etc and not worry about the paint setting up. That's the main reason I switched from acrylics to oils. I'm gonna try and wait till I have several lures ready for paint so I can do them in stages and then let them sit. Thanks to all for the help. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) What was this paint? It must not set up that quick. Your find the speed that fits after awhile. Try painting pvc pipe or whatever until you get the hang of it. Don't waste time and effort on blanks. Dale Edited February 8, 2017 by DaleSW Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
